2-3 shift clunk
2-3 shift clunk(pics up) I have a 2-3 shift clunk that seems to come from behind me somewhere. Im thinkng its got something to do with my trans mount/ or my Torque arm. the torque arm is on a relocation crossmember as well.
do most people with chassis mounted ta's have some clunks going on? Im gonna have to check out the pinion angle when i get back from europe.
do most people with chassis mounted ta's have some clunks going on? Im gonna have to check out the pinion angle when i get back from europe.
Last edited by drone; Mar 2, 2008 at 06:19 PM. Reason: uploaded pics
You have headers with an ORY = no rear O2 sensors. That wire is for the rear O2's if you had them. I have a terrible 2-3 clunk with mine as well. I will soon be replacing the motor mounts and tranny mount with Poly mounts. I have the mounts, just waiting for the time to do this.
Trending Topics
LS1 Tech Stories
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
6 Common C5 Corvette Failures and What's Involved In Repairing Them
Pouria Savadkouei
Retro Modern Bandit Pontiac Trans AM Comes With Burt Reynolds' Autograph
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Greatest Cadillac V Series Performance Models Ever, Ranked
Pouria Savadkouei
Top 10 Most Powerful Chevy Trucks Ever Made!
Hennessey's New Supercharged Silverado ZR2 Has 700 HP
Verdad Gallardo
Coachbuilt N2A Anteros Is an LS2-Powered C6 Corvette In Italian Clothes
Verdad Gallardo
Awesome K5 Blazer Restomod Comes With C7 Corvette Power
Verdad Gallardo
10 Camaros You Should Never Buy
10 LS Engine Myths That Refuse to Die
Verdad Gallardo
My bet is broken tranny mount. Be warned, if you install a poly one - they are f-ing loud. Unacceptable for a DD IMO. They last and they feel great while you are playing but as soon as you're not WOT, they suck and are miserable to live with.
Many guys say that poly motor and rubber tranny is the way to go. I went all stock as I want comfort. YMMV
Many guys say that poly motor and rubber tranny is the way to go. I went all stock as I want comfort. YMMV
TECH Resident
iTrader: (1)
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 848
Likes: 0
From: Tree-Hugging, Bug eating CALI'
You have headers with an ORY = no rear O2 sensors. That wire is for the rear O2's if you had them. I have a terrible 2-3 clunk with mine as well. I will soon be replacing the motor mounts and tranny mount with Poly mounts. I have the mounts, just waiting for the time to do this.
TECH Veteran
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 4,055
Likes: 1
From: Hartsdale, NY
A clunk noise is either a bad tranny or motor mount or bad driveshaft U-joints.
Visual inspection is not useful. Push up on the tranny tail housing to see if it comes off the X-member. To test the drive shaft u-joints put the car in gear and twist the shaft with your hands. If it has rotational movement, you have junkie joints!
Visual inspection is not useful. Push up on the tranny tail housing to see if it comes off the X-member. To test the drive shaft u-joints put the car in gear and twist the shaft with your hands. If it has rotational movement, you have junkie joints!
TECH Veteran
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 4,055
Likes: 1
From: Hartsdale, NY
Yes. Put the auto car into "park" so it locks the wheels. Grab the drive shaft with both hands and twist it back and forth.
If you need to get one or both wheels off the ground for this, then use the E-brake to lock the back wheels.
If you need to get one or both wheels off the ground for this, then use the E-brake to lock the back wheels.
Still in europe. I got an ES tranny poly mount. Seeing as how my rubber mount looks crooked, i hope this solves some of the problem. I should be able to get this in next week sometime. I also have a magnetic angle finder to check the ta angle when its all said and done.
i got the ES tranny mount in. I dont know what people are talking about. It drives great. I did use the loading plate with it as well.
The shift clunk did not go away though. It got alot alot better. It was pretty bad, now its bearable.
I was able to very slightly move the driveshaft back and forth, but the part going into the tranny was moving as well.
I still have to check the Torque arm angle.
The shift clunk did not go away though. It got alot alot better. It was pretty bad, now its bearable.
I was able to very slightly move the driveshaft back and forth, but the part going into the tranny was moving as well.
I still have to check the Torque arm angle.
Mine is doing the same thing!! I changed the stock trans mount to a ES Poly, and thought the clunk went away. After a few days of driving, I noticed that is didn't, it just got quieter and less harsh. What should I try now? Motormounts? I was told by a local guy that this could be my rear end carrier, is this possible or gossip BS?
My 02 camaro SS has 18,000 miles and has never been raced, or used DR's. It clunks also in the 2-3 shift. I really doubt anything is loose or broken. It must be a common event among F body owners.
TECH Addict
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 2,379
Likes: 2
When I first installed my torque arm relocation kit, I found I had a vibration that occurred at 60 mph, like a harmonic. At higher speeds, the car's suspension and sound characteristic from the drivetrain felt unnatural. I had a suspicion that the combination of torque arm relocation and the new crossmember shifted the driveline angle too much. I also noticed that at idle I had a bit more rattle to the exhaust on the passenger side.
I had the ES mount. I did 2 things that fixed that. With the BMR relocation kit, I had a bit more freedom to position the crossmember and thus alter the transmission location and driveline angle. First I switched to the Prothane mount, I noticed it had a slight height difference of 1/16 of an inch, just enough to change the angle of the transmission. Then I yanked on the transmission while reassembling to the driver's side.
The change was noticeable immediately. First my idle rattle was gone, just my normal cam lope. Second, at 60mph the harmonic was gone. Third was at high speed, the car felt rock solid and more confident. I was able to then change the instant center up a notch too.
It's really tough to measure the difference between stock and aftermarket parts, but I think that with the stock crossmember with the ES mount with the bumps shaved off kept my driveline in the same position. When I switched to the BMR relocation, the angle changed along with the height thus making any instant center change unnatural, let alone stock centering.
I had the ES mount. I did 2 things that fixed that. With the BMR relocation kit, I had a bit more freedom to position the crossmember and thus alter the transmission location and driveline angle. First I switched to the Prothane mount, I noticed it had a slight height difference of 1/16 of an inch, just enough to change the angle of the transmission. Then I yanked on the transmission while reassembling to the driver's side.
The change was noticeable immediately. First my idle rattle was gone, just my normal cam lope. Second, at 60mph the harmonic was gone. Third was at high speed, the car felt rock solid and more confident. I was able to then change the instant center up a notch too.
It's really tough to measure the difference between stock and aftermarket parts, but I think that with the stock crossmember with the ES mount with the bumps shaved off kept my driveline in the same position. When I switched to the BMR relocation, the angle changed along with the height thus making any instant center change unnatural, let alone stock centering.
Its the TA. Once you get it adjusted correct the clunking goes away. I was getting really pissed at mine but just kept messing with it till i found a spot the car liked.
Its still more noisy than stock but not bad at all. And It also makes the car much smoother over the little stutter bumps/cracks in the road.
If the PA is off is sounds like the rear is slamming the ground even on little road cracks and the rear end and tunnel mount made lots of clunking noises. Almost scary to drive the car that way.
Now its all good and I couldnt be happier.
All it takes is adjusting and test drives.
Its still more noisy than stock but not bad at all. And It also makes the car much smoother over the little stutter bumps/cracks in the road.
If the PA is off is sounds like the rear is slamming the ground even on little road cracks and the rear end and tunnel mount made lots of clunking noises. Almost scary to drive the car that way.
Now its all good and I couldnt be happier.
All it takes is adjusting and test drives.
