Newb ?'s
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From: Fredericksburg, VA
Newb ?'s I don't really know a whole lot about suspension, but i'm thinking about doing a few cheap mods, to my daily driver. I was thinking about starting off with a Panhard bar, and some rear LCA's, and maybe some relocation brackets. I haven't been to the drag strip yet but i do plan on taking it to the track occasionally. so i have a few questions:
1- Are these parts good, as in quality, etc.?
2-Are the weld-in relocation brackets so much better than the bolt-in ones? Cause its much easier for me to just bolt them in.
3- If i do all that to the rear, will i have to do something to the front suspension to even things out or something; and if so what?
4-With those suspension mods, and just an I/E A4, should i be able to hook up pretty well with decent street tires?
Thanks in advance for the help! Also any links to some good suspension write-ups, and/or articles would be greatly appreciated (the stickies are lacking).
1- Are these parts good, as in quality, etc.?
2-Are the weld-in relocation brackets so much better than the bolt-in ones? Cause its much easier for me to just bolt them in.
3- If i do all that to the rear, will i have to do something to the front suspension to even things out or something; and if so what?
4-With those suspension mods, and just an I/E A4, should i be able to hook up pretty well with decent street tires?
Thanks in advance for the help! Also any links to some good suspension write-ups, and/or articles would be greatly appreciated (the stickies are lacking).
I don't really know a whole lot about suspension, but i'm thinking about doing a few cheap mods, to my daily driver. I was thinking about starting off with a Panhard bar, and some rear LCA's, and maybe some relocation brackets. I haven't been to the drag strip yet but i do plan on taking it to the track occasionally. so i have a few questions:
1- Are these parts good, as in quality, etc.?
2-Are the weld-in relocation brackets so much better than the bolt-in ones? Cause its much easier for me to just bolt them in.
3- If i do all that to the rear, will i have to do something to the front suspension to even things out or something; and if so what?
4-With those suspension mods, and just an I/E A4, should i be able to hook up pretty well with decent street tires?
Thanks in advance for the help! Also any links to some good suspension write-ups, and/or articles would be greatly appreciated (the stickies are lacking).
1- Are these parts good, as in quality, etc.?
2-Are the weld-in relocation brackets so much better than the bolt-in ones? Cause its much easier for me to just bolt them in.
3- If i do all that to the rear, will i have to do something to the front suspension to even things out or something; and if so what?
4-With those suspension mods, and just an I/E A4, should i be able to hook up pretty well with decent street tires?
Thanks in advance for the help! Also any links to some good suspension write-ups, and/or articles would be greatly appreciated (the stickies are lacking).
First off are you lowered?? If not then forget about the LCA relocation brackets...not needed. The UMI suspension parts are top notch as are most of the other companies that produce them. I prefer adjustable LCA's and PHB over non especially if down the road you intend to upgrade the rear end and/or lower your car. By changing to aftermarket LCA/PHB you will help reduce the chances of wheel hop and increase your chance of better traction. I would suggest getting rid of the stock TA as well and going with an adjustable one....do a tunnel mounted version as this will eliminate the connection to the tail shaft of your tranny. I hope this helps you out a bit, I'm sure other members will chime in as well. Good luck with it.
Relo brackets have a reason for their use. Lowering the car makes the control arms angle down from back to front. Bad for traction but good for turning stability.
If you aren't lowered, the control arms angle up from back to front. They act like lift bars and this is good for traction and reducing wheel hop. They are beneficial for drag racers who are at stock height. You don't only need them for lowered cars. Though for turning, this LCA angle makes the car unstable in long sweeper turns.
Panhard bars keep the rear end from moving laterally. I would never waste money on a non adjustable PHB. Always get adjustable. You can recenter your rear end if the car is lowered.
If you aren't lowered, the control arms angle up from back to front. They act like lift bars and this is good for traction and reducing wheel hop. They are beneficial for drag racers who are at stock height. You don't only need them for lowered cars. Though for turning, this LCA angle makes the car unstable in long sweeper turns.
Panhard bars keep the rear end from moving laterally. I would never waste money on a non adjustable PHB. Always get adjustable. You can recenter your rear end if the car is lowered.
If your plan is Drag Racing occasionally I would start with the trans tunnel mounted torque arm, until you lower the car the PHB, LCA and LCA Brackets are not really needed. If you really want you can get the LCA then maybe after that I would go with QA1, and Drag Radials. Then start saving for a rear end. If you wanted more of a corner carver my suggestions would be quite different. Here is a nice write up on suspension components for our cars. note: the article is more bias towards road racing and auto-X.
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12 Second Club
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From: Fredericksburg, VA
Is the Torque Arm still worth getting, even if i don't relocate it? Will i be able to actually notice the difference when launching? Also, as a side note, should a STB be left on or taken off when drag racing?
thanks for the help guys! keep it coming!
thanks for the help guys! keep it coming!
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If you want to fix a huge boo-boo in the car, then think about shocks first. If you are willing to spend the money for it, you can get Koni SA's and be set for life. Unless you plan on doing hardcore wheelie drag racing, I'll always recommend Koni's for daily driving, mild drag racing, autox, road racing, etc....
If you do shocks, you're gonna notice a huge difference compared to the other two. Some people do poly/poly LCAs early and like the difference they feel because the fact that they bind up turns the chassis, LCA's, and rear end into a big swaybar. That's not really the right way to control the rear suspension. They get less rear body roll, but you want your swaybar and springs/shocks controlling that. You want your rear end to have free movement on the LCA's.
If you do shocks, you're gonna notice a huge difference compared to the other two. Some people do poly/poly LCAs early and like the difference they feel because the fact that they bind up turns the chassis, LCA's, and rear end into a big swaybar. That's not really the right way to control the rear suspension. They get less rear body roll, but you want your swaybar and springs/shocks controlling that. You want your rear end to have free movement on the LCA's.
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First off are you lowered?? If not then forget about the LCA relocation brackets...not needed. The UMI suspension parts are top notch as are most of the other companies that produce them. I prefer adjustable LCA's and PHB over non especially if down the road you intend to upgrade the rear end and/or lower your car. By changing to aftermarket LCA/PHB you will help reduce the chances of wheel hop and increase your chance of better traction. I would suggest getting rid of the stock TA as well and going with an adjustable one....do a tunnel mounted version as this will eliminate the connection to the tail shaft of your tranny. I hope this helps you out a bit, I'm sure other members will chime in as well. Good luck with it.