Sway bars and koni's????
#1
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From: Murfreesboro TN
Sway bars and koni's????
Right now I have a 1999 Z28, the suspension is stock except for a set of Koni adjustable shocks. Odometer sits at 114k. I replaced the OEM ones around 105k, they were shot. Best mod I've ever done to the car, it felt like a totally different animal.
Still running 16" OEM chrome plated 5 spokes, with a set of BFGoodrich KDW's. Tires have a lot of grip, both laterally and from a dead stop. Great in rain, I cannot complain. These are far superior to the Kuhmos and Sumitomos I had before.
I was thinking of getting some Sam Strano springs, but decided against it. My car is a daily driver, and I was afraid of bottoming out or scraping the front bumper with a set of lowering springs. I do have the front koni's set on the lower perch, and did the heater hose mod on the rear springs.
So would a set of sway bars be my best bang for the buck upgrade? Or should I do the springs and just watch my ***? BTW, I don't go to the strip, my car made a pidly 305 rwhp with a lid and catback.
Still running 16" OEM chrome plated 5 spokes, with a set of BFGoodrich KDW's. Tires have a lot of grip, both laterally and from a dead stop. Great in rain, I cannot complain. These are far superior to the Kuhmos and Sumitomos I had before.
I was thinking of getting some Sam Strano springs, but decided against it. My car is a daily driver, and I was afraid of bottoming out or scraping the front bumper with a set of lowering springs. I do have the front koni's set on the lower perch, and did the heater hose mod on the rear springs.
So would a set of sway bars be my best bang for the buck upgrade? Or should I do the springs and just watch my ***? BTW, I don't go to the strip, my car made a pidly 305 rwhp with a lid and catback.
#4
Hello, if you are looking to increase the handling of your car shocks, springs and swaybars all need to be upgraded. You already have the shocks so sway bars and springs are next. Our springs lower your car 1" and you really shouldn't have an issue with bottoming out or scraping with that small of a drop. The springs SP001 are in stock and sell for $229.95 for a set of four. I also offer just front or rear springs for $125.95 per pair. Our sway bars are coild formed for better memory retention and include all bushings and end links. They are available seperately or as a kit. SBK001 is the kit number and the price for the pair is $349.00. Here are a couple links to our site and a picture with a car with our springs and sway bars installed. Made in the USA.
http://www.bmrfabrication.com/F-bodySuspension.htm
http://www.bmrfabrication.com/swayba...-installed.jpg
http://www.bmrfabrication.com/swayba...-installed.jpg
http://www.bmrfabrication.com/F-bodySuspension.htm
http://www.bmrfabrication.com/swayba...-installed.jpg
http://www.bmrfabrication.com/swayba...-installed.jpg
Last edited by BMR Tech2; 06-09-2008 at 10:07 AM.
#5
If you don't want to run springs, you shouldn't feel like you need to (you certainly do not). I think a correctly matched set of bars would be the next logical step, and one we take for many folks with similar concerns to yours.
The bars make a huge difference in roll. In fact the front bar is about 45% stiffer and the rear 33% stiffer in roll than the stock GM bars are on your Z28. Compared to a 32mm front, my bar is still about 30% stiffer than that.
Not only will you cut a huge amount of body roll, but you'll also save a few pounds net. While the GM front bar is hollow stock, the rear bar is not. Both of my bars are hollow and that saves you about 5 pounds of unsprung weight off the rear axle, and minimizes the "gain" on the front (mine is about 3 pounds more since you are going from 30mm to 35mm diameter). That's a lot better IMHO than adding 15-25 pounds with solid bars, especially when some front bars aren't stiff enough.
The bars make a huge difference in roll. In fact the front bar is about 45% stiffer and the rear 33% stiffer in roll than the stock GM bars are on your Z28. Compared to a 32mm front, my bar is still about 30% stiffer than that.
Not only will you cut a huge amount of body roll, but you'll also save a few pounds net. While the GM front bar is hollow stock, the rear bar is not. Both of my bars are hollow and that saves you about 5 pounds of unsprung weight off the rear axle, and minimizes the "gain" on the front (mine is about 3 pounds more since you are going from 30mm to 35mm diameter). That's a lot better IMHO than adding 15-25 pounds with solid bars, especially when some front bars aren't stiff enough.
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www.stranoparts.com --814-849-3450
Results matter. Talk is cheap. We are miles beyond the success anyone else has had with the 4th gens, and C5, C6, C7 Corvettes,
10 SCCA Solo National Championships, 2008 Driver of they Year, 2012 Driver of Eminence
13 SCCA Pro Solo Nationals Championships
2023 UMI King of the Mountain Champion
#6
Sounds like your car is about what my set up is. Koni's on stock springs (hose mod and lower perch), lid, and catback with about roughly the same miles. Only difference is the tires (I run Yokohama AVS ES100's).
That said, I bought Sam's front bar first. No complaints at all. I then purchased Sam's rear bar. All combined, the car became a whole new animal, an absolute improvement over stock, with the car having less roll and more stability.
I have no complaints at all about my setup.
That said, I bought Sam's front bar first. No complaints at all. I then purchased Sam's rear bar. All combined, the car became a whole new animal, an absolute improvement over stock, with the car having less roll and more stability.
I have no complaints at all about my setup.
#7
I have been here and done that so to speak. I got a 99 and my previous car had good shocks. The konis rock. No need to lower anymore and you will keep good riding characteristcs on bumps with the stock springs and konis. Sam has the best bars out currently. Thats the setup I run and its really really nice.
good luck
good luck
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#8
I DD my car everyday no matter the weather and have driven from San Diego CA to Ocala FL 2 times now. I have Sam's springs and swaybars as well as the Koni 4/4. This is the setup you want for the best handling and responsive suspension. Sam can correct me on this, but i dont think he recommends having the shocks on the bottom perch.