DAS1998

iTrader: (12)

I have my car completely apart, going to git rid of abs all together. question is i want to run all new brake lines. obviously there is no proportioning valve. so would you run the fronts directly out of the master and a willwood valve for the backs---3 lines or would you run 4 lines and somehow meter them?

i have done this on older cars and had real good luck but i dont know if there is anything out there for metering. Still want to have power brakes just no abs.

any info apperciated.

mike

mitchntx

iTrader: (14)

Been there ... done that ... works great! Granted, it's on a 93-97 version, but shouldn't matter.

I adapted to 3/16" standard line coming out of the MC
Ran line to the firewall and used a bulkhead fitting to penetrate the firewall.
Ran line from firewall, inside the car along the trans tunnel, to a prop valve next to the e-brake bracket.
From there to the rear bulkhead where I installed another bulkhead fitting.
Adapted to -3 AN and ran a -3 Braided brake line from the rear bulkhead to a -3 adapter into the distribution block on the rear axle.

I secured the brake line with adel clamps.

I also replumbed the front lines to get them out of the K-Member so that I don't have to breech the brake system to drop the motor out the bottom.

DAS1998

iTrader: (12)

thanks for the info,.. i figured it would work but i have not done this to anything this new. Did you run the one line out of the master for the fronts into a t block?--brass weather head type .. the rear setup sounds nice and easy to adjust.. this is just a street car so i dont think i need ultimate adjustment for rear braking, i want to put a line lock on drive the hell out of the thing.....

mitchntx

iTrader: (14)

Yes, single line out and into a Tee block.

Then a short line to the inner fender well on the driver's side and another -3AN bulkhead fitting. Then -3 braided line from the bulkhead to the caliper.

The passenger side I ran new line forward and then down to the lower core support, across and to the passenger side inner fender well.

FYI .... I seem to recall a vendor making a billet block that replaced the ABS module and accepted all the factory lines. Maybe it was Billingsley?

Can't recall ... but it would be worth the search

FlamingChicken

iTrader: (2)

sjm makes an abs delete with or without line lock. might wanna check it out for a clean install

DAS1998

iTrader: (12)

i have sen the abs delete kit but i have the car completly disassembled. I want to also make it so you do not have to take the brake lines off to remove the motor, plus hide as much as i can i have painted everything now and want to keep it nice and neat

SJM Manufacturing Inc

iTrader: (5)

As you know and what has been mentioned, we do have a direct kit designed for your car though you're looking to do something customized for your particular application. Our kits do not have billet block, rather pre-formed lines that enable the user to completely remove the whole abs block AND bracket for the cleanest setup as well as reducing maximum weight, increasing space for supercharger/turbo setups in addition to increasing air flow. All kits include an adjustable wilwood proportioning valve and all fittings necessary for the application.

I would advise if you're going to build your own setup, use an adjustable proportioning valve as we include in every kit we produce. The likelihood of your brake bias being set correctly is about as good of a chance as hitting the lottery. Brake bias needs vary as brakes, weight distribution; tires etc vary from one vehicle to the next.

When your brake bias is set poorly, you will have a tendency to lock one set of wheels before the other. When this occurs, you will not only increase braking distances, you will have more uncontrollable or unpredictable stops.

If you need any particular separate components including the proportioning valve, fittings or any other components, feel free to give us a call. I'd be happy to supply you with whatever you need. Though this may not be the case for you, sometimes, I'll see people attempt to build a kit solely to save money. If they did their homework, they can quickly find they will end up spending near if not more then what our pre-manufactured kits sell for without the hassles.

Removing a brake line across the k-member shouldn’t be of high-priority…compared to removing the engine, it is rather simplistic. No need to go too deep into affixing a brake line to the cross member. Changing brake fluid should be performed at least every 1-2 year anyways. Without changes, wet boiling points are affected; brake line and internal caliper/master cylinder components can be compromised due to moisture intrusion. If you’re in need to remove the engine at higher intervals, I think that you’ve got more thinks to be concerned with anyways.


Good luck, let me know if I can be of further assistance.

mitchntx

iTrader: (14)

For cheap brake fluid, I will agree 100%. It definitely needs to be changed. Castrol SRF is expensive, but well worth it. It's been in my road race Firebird since early 2005. I do bleed the calipers at every brake pad change.

My rig is for a dedicated road race car. So, engine maintenance/freshening occurs often ... too often many times.

Some side benefits to my methodology is:
it gets the brake lines WAY away from hot exhaust

converts the brake lines to standard off the shelf lines available at any Autozone (in case a rock or something like that hits the line and ruptures it)

converts the braided lines from $150 "kits" to $15 individual lines that I can change as needed.

motor from the car to engine stand in 60 minutes and no need to bleed the brakes if in a time crunch.