Just Received my Koni's- Have a few questions.
08-16-2008, 10:29 AM
#1
Just Received my Koni's- Have a few questions. I just received my Koni's 4/4 shocks. My car is a daily driver with 42K miles. I am planning on keeping the stock springs. Should I do the hose mod on the rear springs with the Koni's? What setting does everyone use on the front and rear to start with? I could not believe the directions Koni sent with the shocks or the box they sent them in. It looks like they just cut out a few drawings and called it a day....
The box they came in was also all beat up.
I bought the shocks from Sam. I need to call him before I install the shocks.
I can not wait to get them installed.
Thanks.
Bill
The box they came in was also all beat up.I bought the shocks from Sam. I need to call him before I install the shocks.
I can not wait to get them installed.
Thanks.
Bill
08-16-2008, 11:09 AM
#2
Launching!
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Indianapolis, IN
Posts: 285
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I set mine at 2 sweeps from full soft in the front and full soft in the rear. I'm on an otherwise stock suspension (except for the 32mm "SS" front swaybar) and it handles great now. The floatiness caused by the stock shocks is gone and now I can take I speed corners with confidence.
I'd use the directions on www.ls1howto.com and also these directions: http://www.greenfries.info/Koni_shocks.htm
In addition to those two "how to" sites, the only advice I can give is do NOT use a pickle fork to seperate the upper ball joint. Doing so will most likely damage the ball joint boot and then you'll have to replace that. Rent a "Tie Rod separator" from AutoZone (free) and use a small socket to center the tool onto the balljoint studded section. It will pop right off with no problems.
Good luck with the install.
I'd use the directions on www.ls1howto.com and also these directions: http://www.greenfries.info/Koni_shocks.htm
In addition to those two "how to" sites, the only advice I can give is do NOT use a pickle fork to seperate the upper ball joint. Doing so will most likely damage the ball joint boot and then you'll have to replace that. Rent a "Tie Rod separator" from AutoZone (free) and use a small socket to center the tool onto the balljoint studded section. It will pop right off with no problems.
Good luck with the install.
08-16-2008, 11:20 AM
#3
Launching!
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Indianapolis, IN
Posts: 285
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I used the upper perch on the Konis. If you use the lower perch on the Koni fronts, the I think the hose mod in the rear would be good. Replacing the rear isolator with hydraullic hose or heater hose results in a 3/4" drop (I used 200psi hydraulic hose from Lowes).
For some reason, the driver's side rear on my car was about 3/4" higher than the rest of the car from the factory. Therefor, I ended up doing the hose mod just on that corner. Now the car sits perfectly level.
For some reason, the driver's side rear on my car was about 3/4" higher than the rest of the car from the factory. Therefor, I ended up doing the hose mod just on that corner. Now the car sits perfectly level.
08-16-2008, 11:31 AM
#4
TECH Junkie
iTrader: (10)
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Pearland, TX
Posts: 3,778
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
If you have stock springs, you can use the lower perch and do the heater hose mod. If you're using lowering springs, use the upper perch. You can still do the heater hose mod for the rears either way, but I've seen some cars where it looks like the front is higher than the back after that.
-Mike
-Mike
08-16-2008, 01:05 PM
#5
On The Tree
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: breaux bridge,louisiana
Posts: 197
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Using stock springs I removed the rear isolater and put the fronts on the lower perch. Stance is great and it shoul have come from GM like that. But yes I would definantly call Sam before you install the koni's
08-16-2008, 01:38 PM
#6
Yes the instructions they sent are a JOKE. I got the same shocks yesterday and have to call Sam for his help setting them up. I don't wanna put them on wrong only to have to take them off again... I'm going to have the hose mod in the rear and the lower perch up front. Figure it should make the stance level/slight rake.
-J
-J
08-16-2008, 06:26 PM
#7
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (9)
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Schaumburg, IL
Posts: 1,693
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I just got my Koni's form Sam on thurs.. installed them yesterday. it only took a couple hours to do but I've been into f- cars suspension several times and ran Koni's in another F-car I used to have. I'm going to more a handling setup now over pure drag setup I used to have. anyways...
I used the stock springs on the lower perch on the front. It lowered my cars nose but not much so I left the rear spring isolator in place or else it would have a reverse rake. Unless you cut the front springs to lower the front a bit more I'd not do the heater hose mod on the rear. I'm running 3 from soft in the front and full soft in the rear. I got to say it feels 10x better than the worn out front shocks and CE rear shocks I had on the car. Hell even on the first test drive still on Drag wheels with no front sway bar it felt like a whole new car! now that I put on normal wheels and the front sway bar back on man it feels like an f1 car! lol!
edit.... my car has a decent amount of weight removed from the nose so that would probably explain when the lower perch didn't lower the car much.
I used the stock springs on the lower perch on the front. It lowered my cars nose but not much so I left the rear spring isolator in place or else it would have a reverse rake. Unless you cut the front springs to lower the front a bit more I'd not do the heater hose mod on the rear. I'm running 3 from soft in the front and full soft in the rear. I got to say it feels 10x better than the worn out front shocks and CE rear shocks I had on the car. Hell even on the first test drive still on Drag wheels with no front sway bar it felt like a whole new car! now that I put on normal wheels and the front sway bar back on man it feels like an f1 car! lol!
edit.... my car has a decent amount of weight removed from the nose so that would probably explain when the lower perch didn't lower the car much.
Trending Topics
08-16-2008, 07:21 PM
#8
To the OP - If you search my username on the Wheels and Tires forum, I posted a thread there some time ago with pics of my car, so you can get an idea of what it looks like.
08-16-2008, 08:05 PM
#9
Bill
I used the lower perch and heater hose mod for 4 months (waiting on Sam's springs). I set mine at 4 sweeps from full hard up front, full soft in the back. And I agree, the car should have came like that from the factory, amazing ride and actually a little more compliant than with the lowering springs (to be expected, more travel and not as stiff a spring rate).
I used the lower perch and heater hose mod for 4 months (waiting on Sam's springs). I set mine at 4 sweeps from full hard up front, full soft in the back. And I agree, the car should have came like that from the factory, amazing ride and actually a little more compliant than with the lowering springs (to be expected, more travel and not as stiff a spring rate).
08-17-2008, 11:03 AM
#10
Bill
I used the lower perch and heater hose mod for 4 months (waiting on Sam's springs). I set mine at 4 sweeps from full hard up front, full soft in the back. And I agree, the car should have came like that from the factory, amazing ride and actually a little more compliant than with the lowering springs (to be expected, more travel and not as stiff a spring rate).
I used the lower perch and heater hose mod for 4 months (waiting on Sam's springs). I set mine at 4 sweeps from full hard up front, full soft in the back. And I agree, the car should have came like that from the factory, amazing ride and actually a little more compliant than with the lowering springs (to be expected, more travel and not as stiff a spring rate).
Bill
