BMR stuff is crap ... now I have proof!
#81
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I guess the good news is.....
The bushing problem may be fixed....
(Lets just move the trouble spot somewhere else?).
And, why do poly/poly LCA's need to be adjustable (the PHB I can understand, lowered cars and all)??? What schmuck though that they are better because they are adjustable? As Mitch said, "you don't adjust them anyway???" Just build them in one piece, and make them the correct length and be done with it.
It appears that they are using some type of "turnbuckle" piece in the center. Like you may use to tension cables. I somehow doubt that it is designed for compressive loads (like acceleration). But hey, what do I know???
The bushing problem may be fixed....
(Lets just move the trouble spot somewhere else?).
And, why do poly/poly LCA's need to be adjustable (the PHB I can understand, lowered cars and all)??? What schmuck though that they are better because they are adjustable? As Mitch said, "you don't adjust them anyway???" Just build them in one piece, and make them the correct length and be done with it.
It appears that they are using some type of "turnbuckle" piece in the center. Like you may use to tension cables. I somehow doubt that it is designed for compressive loads (like acceleration). But hey, what do I know???
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trackbird, I've also wondered about this new design. Sure looks like its weakest in the highest moment area as well as having a few stress risers there to boot. Doesn't make much sense to me. All I know is that I need to scratch up $200 for a G2 PHB
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#83
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I'm sure that every good intention was made.
I've never held one of the "new design" parts, but it appears that you turn that center "turnbuckle" to lengthen or shorten the piece.
If those jam nuts ever loosen, that wouldn't be good.
I've never held one of the "new design" parts, but it appears that you turn that center "turnbuckle" to lengthen or shorten the piece.
If those jam nuts ever loosen, that wouldn't be good.
#85
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I'm starting to remember why I don't like Poly bushings (I never really liked them, but I'm seeing more "results").
http://corner-carvers.com/forums/sho...threadid=11858
Interesting....
In all fairness, I posted this because it is a "Non-BMR failure". Someone in here said something about everyone having failures and that is a reasonable statement. So, I tossed this info up to help illustrate that point. And this failure was from a well respected suspension company. This won't change the fact that I don't like BMR's new or old designs and I find the quality of their rod ends to be inferior to almost everyone. But, it does show that "stuff happens" to other manufacturers as well...
It may be the beginning of a trend towards "why we shouldn't use poly bushings in places they don't belong (more than 1 axis of rotation).
My thoughts...
http://corner-carvers.com/forums/sho...threadid=11858
Interesting....
In all fairness, I posted this because it is a "Non-BMR failure". Someone in here said something about everyone having failures and that is a reasonable statement. So, I tossed this info up to help illustrate that point. And this failure was from a well respected suspension company. This won't change the fact that I don't like BMR's new or old designs and I find the quality of their rod ends to be inferior to almost everyone. But, it does show that "stuff happens" to other manufacturers as well...
It may be the beginning of a trend towards "why we shouldn't use poly bushings in places they don't belong (more than 1 axis of rotation).
My thoughts...
#86
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Mitch, you and all the old school DFW guys have proven to me when I come around buying suspension parts a second time, I'm going with race proven designs. I look up to you, and when you initially bought BMR and touted them as good quality/cheap price, etc... I bought some of their stuff. I thought I was going to sell the T/A so now most of those parts are on Graysons transhackula.
I'm just waiting on some extra cash to go all aluminum LG stuff.
Thanks for proving the light to me.
I'm just waiting on some extra cash to go all aluminum LG stuff.
Thanks for proving the light to me.
#87
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Aw shucks, Matt <digs toe in sand> ...
I too got caught up in the hype. Live and learn, I guess ... the key ... LEARN!
Interesting read, Kevin. I saw that post and never made the connection, for some reason.
I too got caught up in the hype. Live and learn, I guess ... the key ... LEARN!
Interesting read, Kevin. I saw that post and never made the connection, for some reason.
#90
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Ahh....that connection. With the rear suspension setup on those cars, there are lots of bushings in an arrangement that rotates on more than one axis. It is interesting that these are all starting to come to light now....
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My BMR Torque Arm mount just broke, the bolts broke off in my 12-bolt....
I've got the SFC's, STB, and LCA's, and they are all holding up fine...I like the Trak Pak TQ arm, its done well so far....
I've got the SFC's, STB, and LCA's, and they are all holding up fine...I like the Trak Pak TQ arm, its done well so far....
#92
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My BMR Torque Arm mount just broke, the bolts broke off in my 12-bolt....
I've got the SFC's, STB, and LCA's, and they are all holding up fine... I like the Trak Pak TQ arm, its done well so far....
I've got the SFC's, STB, and LCA's, and they are all holding up fine... I like the Trak Pak TQ arm, its done well so far....
Is anyone else confused by that post? Maybe it's just me.....
#93
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Haha, yea I guess that does sound weird, well it took tons of T-brake launches.....it shouldn't of happened, but I was happy with the way it was holding up....
I'm glad it broke now instead of it happening at the track...
I'm glad it broke now instead of it happening at the track...
#95
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There are numerous cases of the bolts TQ arm bolts coming loose from 12 bolts. Do a search and you will find the threads talking about this problem. Mostly with Moser rears. This is not exclusive to BMR TQ arms. I split my stock TQ arm like this. One of the top bolts fell out and the other had worked loose causing the TQ arm to split. After installing a BMR TQ arm and using locktite, I have not had any problems with mid 1.5 60's and 6600 rpm clutch dumps and slicks on a 6 speed car.
#96
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I have broken APR bolts before with less tq than specified for the part...does that make APR products crap?
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Typically, when one is torquing down a bolt and it snaps, the dangers associated with it are minimal. Just the occasional ricochet of a flying wrench ...
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Unlike a suspension part, which very rarely snaps while the car is on jack stands. It's typically with a loaded suspension, and other cars around and speeds on the edge of control.
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Oh me, and I just bought BMR's low adjustable control arms like the ones Trackbird posted. Wish I had read this first.
I was afraid to buy the rod end type as they might hit this weak rear end too hard. Wish I had bought another brand of poly now.
I was afraid to buy the rod end type as they might hit this weak rear end too hard. Wish I had bought another brand of poly now.
#99
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my LCAs are holding up.
I "nut and bolt" my car before each track event. This failure completely eluded me ...
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put 13K miles on them when i changed to my 12 bolt and had them off. 17K miles now and i had the car in the air a couple weekends ago and they looked ok to me. when you put extreme strain on a cars parts- ie road racing/drag racing with high hp...you should expect things to break. people break 12 bolts, does that mean they are crap? **** breaks, its part of racing. if you buy a 100 dollar suspension part that normally costs 400 dollars, then i hate to say that you shoulda thought about your application before you placed your order. almost as bad as putting pump gas in a race engine.