boxed sfc's make a huge difference?
boxed sfc's make a huge difference? i am getting sfc's boxed style from eric and midwest chassis and wanted to know if anyone that installed sfc's on their car made a huge difference and with what handeling or launching at the strip?
I did my suspension mods all at once so I can't say how much the sfc's contributed, but the difference was very noticable. Body flex is completely gone. Judging from your #'s, your gonna feel a big difference.
Hello,
Whether the SFC's are boxed or tubular it won't make a difference as long as the items are constructed and designed correctly.
Please keep us in mind as well, we offer a variety of options starting at $155 a set, powder coated red or black and with 100% bolt in options.
http://www.umiperformance.com/produc...ategory_id=129
If you have any questions please ask. Thank you!
Ryan
Whether the SFC's are boxed or tubular it won't make a difference as long as the items are constructed and designed correctly.
Please keep us in mind as well, we offer a variety of options starting at $155 a set, powder coated red or black and with 100% bolt in options.
http://www.umiperformance.com/produc...ategory_id=129
If you have any questions please ask. Thank you!
Ryan
My favorite thing about mine is using them as a jack point and lifting the whole entire side of the car up.
For drag racing, they would be a good insurance policy. Cars that hook and make big power I guess can twist and I don't think that makes it any easier going straight. Whether you make enough power and traction to do that or if you will do it in the future is maybe a question you'd want to ask yourself. Either way it can't hurt, unless you want to autox in fstock or STU. Some people report more noise transmitting through, other's dont.
For drag racing, they would be a good insurance policy. Cars that hook and make big power I guess can twist and I don't think that makes it any easier going straight. Whether you make enough power and traction to do that or if you will do it in the future is maybe a question you'd want to ask yourself. Either way it can't hurt, unless you want to autox in fstock or STU. Some people report more noise transmitting through, other's dont.
Hello,
Whether the SFC's are boxed or tubular it won't make a difference as long as the items are constructed and designed correctly.
Please keep us in mind as well, we offer a variety of options starting at $155 a set, powder coated red or black and with 100% bolt in options.
http://www.umiperformance.com/produc...ategory_id=129
If you have any questions please ask. Thank you!
Ryan
Whether the SFC's are boxed or tubular it won't make a difference as long as the items are constructed and designed correctly.
Please keep us in mind as well, we offer a variety of options starting at $155 a set, powder coated red or black and with 100% bolt in options.
http://www.umiperformance.com/produc...ategory_id=129
If you have any questions please ask. Thank you!
Ryan
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Sub frame connectors no matter if they are boxed or tubular are always a good choice no matter what kind of driving you do. We feel that the boxed version are a stronger product than the tubular because of the torsional twisting that can occur with the tubular connectors. All of our connectors are of the weld in version.
Last edited by BMR Tech2; Dec 9, 2008 at 09:25 AM.
Sub frame connectors no matter if they are boxed or tubular are always a good choice no matter what kind of driving you do. We feel that the boxed version are a stronger product than the tubular because of the torsional twisting that can occur with the tubular connectors. Al of our conmnectors are of the weld in version.
i heard 3 pt can interfer with exhaust and possibly my torque arm. the main reason i am putting them in is because i am putting in my 9" and i figured why not just do it all at the same time... i was thinking about a chromoly panhard bar too
mine stop befor they get into the tunnel. no messing with my exhust or torgue arm. does beeter with tunnel mount torque arm
Hope that helps!
Ryan
Both the 2-Point tubular or boxed will work great for every application.
If I can help anymore please ask. Thank you!
Ryan
On The Tree
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 104
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From: Delaware
I'm also thinking about adding a set of these, but not sure which way to go. Here's my situation...01 Z28 with 33k mi. Bone stock suspension except for upgraded LCA bushings from the waffle type to the solid 1LE type, which helped.
I just want to improve the ride and handling without re-doing the whole suspension. The car is not raced it's just my weekend cruiser. Should I go with 2 pt or 3 pt? Also I want to use bolt-in type SFC. Thanks for your feedback.
I just want to improve the ride and handling without re-doing the whole suspension. The car is not raced it's just my weekend cruiser. Should I go with 2 pt or 3 pt? Also I want to use bolt-in type SFC. Thanks for your feedback.
Here are the SFC's I would recommend- www.umiperformance.com/2002
If I can help anymore please ask. Thank you!
Ryan
Big difference, no. Noticeable, yes. Shocks alone (such as Konis from UMI or Strano) are what you need first. My humble Bilsteins made as much improvement as the rest of my chassis/sups. mods COMBINED. I wouldn't buy the hard chassis parts from anyone except UMI and suspension from anyone but Sam.
Launching!
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 262
Likes: 0
So subframe connectors hurt you when it comes to autox/roadracing (racing on an actual race track)? I thought that SFCs stiffening the chassis would improve handling as well???... Am i missing something here?