wannafbody

iTrader: (2)

The top pigtail on the spring is located in the stock position and held in place by the blunt end of the upper mount. The portion of the upper mount that extends below the upper coil is what is removed by cutting.

JasonWW

iTrader: (2)

Are you asking a question?
Yes, you are correct.

wannafbody

iTrader: (2)

No, I was simply explaining this for anyone who is still confused. Ya, I know it's an old thread but I figured it was worth bumping.

darknessxyz

iTrader: (22)

After 30 mins of reading at 1am, I totally understand how it work to regain the loss suspension travel after lowering the car. I'm kinda confuse about the washer part and the top mount tite part.

I've 1.2 drop spring (non-sponsor but same as Strano) and Koni DA. So after I cut the center section of the top mount, where do I put the washer? Should I use the Koni big flat washer?

Please help Jason or 99Bluz28.

JasonWW

iTrader: (2)

Since the top of the Koni is not flat, it's curved, you don't need to add a washer. It will be able to tilt just fine without it.

darknessxyz

iTrader: (22)

^^Meaning I just cut the top mount and put everything back together is good? Not even the big flat washer from Koni?

JasonWW

iTrader: (2)

Correct.
Don't forget the other steps such as cutting the tip (non threaded part) off of the koni hat and adding a spacer so you can bolt the top hat to the shock mount.

Here's a current picture of my konis. Focus on the top part and not the air bag stuff.

darknessxyz

iTrader: (22)

Do you have a pic angle from the top for a better look of the spacer?

99Bluz28

iTrader: (35)

You can just use the metal that you cut off the bottom, some thick washers, or a slightly oversized nut that will slide down over the shaft(that's what I did).

JasonWW

iTrader: (2)

Just this pic from page one.


A stack of washers or a slightly oversized nut like 99Bluz28 said will also be fine.

Pro_built7

iTrader: (9)

This mod looks like it would work great with my strano/kyb setup which has horrible suspension travel in the front end.

The only thing that concerns me is by cutting away the bump stop it seems you would be weakening the integrity of the shock mount alot.
- And by that I mean you would be loosing alot of it's ability to hold the dampener in place (rod in shock that goes up and down, and through the mount). And that it would eventually weaken and the rod would blow right through the mount and be riding on the inside of your wheel well. -because you took away alot of it's strength.

could you comment on this man ?

jRaskell

iTrader: (1)

The bulk of the forces being supported by the suspension go through the spring perch portion of the upper mount, not the shock itself. The only forces being exerted through the rod into the shock mount are some minor lateral forces to maintain proper orientation of the shock and spring throughout the suspension travel, and the vertical forces exerted by the damping the shock is doing, which are also relatively minor.

Short answer, this mod does nothing to compromise the effective structural integrity of the upper shock mount.

JasonWW

iTrader: (2)

You might want to read page one again because I didn't say anything about cutting your bumpstop. In fact, I recommend using a longer, more progressive 40mm bumpstop that Koni makes.

About your second concern, the entire weight of the car is supported by the spring and transfered to the outer part of the mount which is untouched. The top of the shock is bolted to a trapazoidal shaped piece of thick steel that is sandwiched (locked into place) between the stamped steel upper control arm base and the steel upper mount. That also is not touched, so there is no structural integrity lost at all. Everything is just as strong as stock.
I don't completely agree with you on this point. I think there are some pretty substantial verticle loads that the shock is trying to control. 100% of these vertical loads are exerted on the thick steel trapazoid shaped piece. That's just how this setup was designed at the factory. A bit overly complex, but it's all plenty strong.

Pro_built7

iTrader: (9)

[QUOTE=JasonWW;11848597]You might want to read page one again because I didn't say anything about cutting your bumpstop. In fact, I recommend using a longer, more progressive 40mm bumpstop that Koni makes.
- When I said bumpstop i meant the cylindrical center section of the strut mount that projects downward, (the part that is being cut off).

About your second concern, the entire weight of the car is supported by the spring and transfered to the outer part of the mount which is untouched. The top of the shock is bolted to a trapazoidal shaped piece of thick steel that is sandwiched (locked into place) between the shocktower and the steel upper mount. That also is not touched, so there is no structural integrity lost at all. Everything is just as strong as stock.
- I'm guessing your referring to the insulator (or isolator ?) I didn't realize that once assembled it also acted as a positive load bearer as well as negative. but how does it work as a positive when the shoulder of the damp. rod sits on the shock mount NOT the isolator ?

---- so... what about pushing up through the mount ? ( I'm guessing there's just not enough force? ) because the shoulder of the dampening rod of the shock sits on the strut mount not the isolator, transferring the force of its dampening action into the shock mount itself on a positive movement when hitting a bump.

which is where I think doing this would affect structual integrity because you are cutting away some of the center bushing that keeps the dampener from pushing upward .. see what I'm trying to get at man ?

thanks for the help man really appreciate your replies

99Bluz28

iTrader: (35)

The isolator in the upper mount sit up against the metal that protrudes down from the upper control arm mount assembly. That metal in the middle is what the isolator sits against.

JasonWW

iTrader: (2)

Let me know if this helps you to understand.

Here is the upper shock mount, the trapazoid shaped piece and the upper control arm assembly. The trapazoid piece is directly bolted to the shock and gets traped in between the 2 bigger pieces.


Here it is a stock Koni shock.


Here are all the pieces together in stock form:


Here is everything after the modification.


The pink trapazoidal piece stays locked into place and controls all the up and down forces the shock gives it, but it still has enough give to allow the shock to tilt slightly.

.

darknessxyz

iTrader: (22)

^^This explains everything, plain and simple

KILLER-LS1

iTrader: (18)

yeahhhhhhhh put this on the first page!! i just read this entire thing and just figured it out with that picture hahahahah

KILLER-LS1

iTrader: (18)

oh and id hate to cut on a shock with a lifetime warranty if they ever gave you crap about it... can you get away without having to cut the top of the shock rod?

JasonWW

iTrader: (2)

Done
I seriously doubt it would effect the warranty, but yes, there is a way to avoid it. You can cut or drill a hole in the shock tower for it to stick through. Here is the exact spot.