ls1n00b

iTrader: (14)

Hey guys, i need to get my cars windows tinted, but the place close to my house wont do 20% all around.

they wanted 265 to do lunar film about 25 % and 15% on the back on my trans am.

I also need a shop to do some sound deadening (sp) in my interior, does anyone recomend any good shops?

how much would sound deadening cost me?

preferrably on the southwest side, but its not cruicial.

i live in katy.

02Z28LS1

iTrader: (2)

i don't know about tint in the houston area, but i say buy the sound deadening and do it yourself. i just bought 200 sq. ft. of eDead45 for my car for $1/sq.ft.....along with a roller to apply it and shipping, it cost a total of around $265 or so.

i may end up doing the TekLite on top of that later (it's a Closed Cell Neoprene barrier vs. the aluminum-backed butyl rubber like the eDead45), but i figured i'd put the eDead45 on there first and see how it works, then if i still feel the need for more, i'll do the TekLite....main reason being, the TekLite is $2/sq.ft. instead of $1/sq.ft. like the eDead45.....so i'll get a better idea of exactly how many square feet i need with the cheaper stuff, so that if/when i do buy the more expensive stuff, i can order less and save money.

CarsandWomen

iTrader: (19)

problem with most of the sound deadening stuff is its crazy heavy, so if your trying to go fast try to stay away from it, if you still want it, id go with Dynamat, Expressive Audio in humble does a fantastic job.

02Z28LS1

iTrader: (2)

my 200sq.ft. of eDead45, the roller, and the 2 boxes they were shipped in weighed less than 72 lbs. in total. i wouldn't call that "crazy heavy". that's less than having a passenger riding along with you....unless your passenger is Mini-Me.....and probably even then.

and not only that, but i highly doubt i will even be using the whole 200sq.ft., either, so i figure probably between 50 - 60 lbs. will actually be going in my car....i just ordered a bunch so i'd be absolutely sure to have enough to cover my entire car.

to me, 50 - 60 lbs. is worth it to be able to have a conversation with someone else in the car without shouting at each other, and being able to hear the stereo without cranking it up all the way.

the only time it's really gonna make a noticeable difference is if your car is a drag/track queen....in which case, **** the noise, it's worth it for the weight savings.

Medic/Z28

iTrader: (9)

You could tint the car yourself. I got some tint today to tint my two front H2 windows. As far as deadening material...youre doing a sound system I hope. Muscle cars shouldnt have sound deadening material. Dynamat worked awesome on my car in high school when I did a system. Bass hit clean and hard. People could hear me two blocks away. On the Z. That bitch was LOUD as ****. I didnt care to talk to anyone when I drove it. I even folded the rear seats down to hear it more. Man I miss my car.

DAVE00

iTrader: (10)

Do the sound deadening yourself as it's not hard and will save you a ton of money at an install shop. For a product I would go with Damplifier Pro from Second Skin - it's pricey but the best product on the market IMO.

Blackfly

iTrader: (13)

Damplifier Pro- Rick can get this done.

Pro Edge Auto & Paint
13940 Bammel N. Houston Suite 315
Houston, TX 77066
Office: 713-459-3874

jaysan

iTrader: (8)

Duct tape and card board

johnlv6

iTrader: (3)

x2. It's an easy enough job that it would be silly to pay someone else to do it. :2cents:

02Z28LS1

iTrader: (2)

some people could tint the car themselves, but if they've never done it before, it could just as easily turn out to look like a $5 ghetto special, and start bubbling/peeling within a month or two. i prefer to just have a pro shop do it for me and get a professional job done with a warranty on it.

the place i got my car tinted at did an outstanding job on it...it's been 4 - 5 years now, and the only place it's even starting to show any signs of "bubbling" is on the rear window where the dot-matrix crap is on the rear hatch, and it's not even really that bad....and that's normal in that area, anyway....it's REALLY hard to get that area to never peel/bubble. if it ever gets bad, i have a lifetime warranty, so i can just go back and get them to replace it for free. it only took them a couple hours, too. much faster/better job than i would have been able to do.

as for the bass being heard 2 blocks away, that has absolutely nothing to do with the Dynamat. it just makes it sound louder inside because it's effectively reducing all the other noises you hear within the car, so you don't have to turn the stereo up as much to "hear" the same volume. kinda like when you've got a box fan going in a room on high while trying to watch TV....as soon as you turn the fan off, all of a sudden, you can hear the TV a LOT better than you could before.

people would still hear you 2 blocks away with whatever components you had in there, Dynamat or not. it would just also sound like a $5 ghetto special, from all the sheet metal rattling/vibrating outside the car.

CarsandWomen

iTrader: (19)

^^^not necesarily true, the sheetmetal flexing and expanding and contracting with the subs will in fact absorb some of the sound. if the wood of the box is too thin it will do the same thing, so dynamating the whole car will in fact make the system louder by a few Decibels (and sound cleaner, and filter out noise from the car, in that you are 100% correct), and it will make the sound carry farther just because its then louder.
but
for the most part you are correct, the fact that it carried that far was mostly a product of the components themselves.