Where in Garland & Mesquite to get Raditator Flush
07-23-2011, 09:23 PM
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Where in Garland & Mesquite to get Raditator Flush I am having the Raditator on my GTP Flushed cause its been running Hot at stop light & around through traffic. I was going to do this myself. But after reading on Grandprix.net. They suggest to have this done because of the time involved.
Im thinking maybe Goodyear or Firestone to have this done at cause they have the tools to bleed the system & T that goes in to the Heater core & get all the air out of the system.
My car is running Dex Cool from the factory & I hear this stuff is pretty nasty & gums up the cooling system really bad. Thus why I want it done by a pro!
I know Flushing a coolant system is like a alignment & some shops can half *** the job & this is what i want to avoid!
Im thinking maybe Goodyear or Firestone to have this done at cause they have the tools to bleed the system & T that goes in to the Heater core & get all the air out of the system.
My car is running Dex Cool from the factory & I hear this stuff is pretty nasty & gums up the cooling system really bad. Thus why I want it done by a pro!
I know Flushing a coolant system is like a alignment & some shops can half *** the job & this is what i want to avoid!
07-24-2011, 12:58 AM
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The AC was working great. Till I went out tonight & took the car to the store & the AC never blew cold, Looks like my AC isnt working either.
I should have just bought the Acura TL. These damn Grand Prix's have something always going wrong. Its little stuff. But its annoying!!!!
I have heard 50/50 say dont use the green stuff cause your waterpump and radiator will go south pretty shortly after & then I have heard others say, If you flush the system correctly that use can switch from Dex Cool to the green stuff with no problems. But with my luck I think I will just flush the system & put in fresh Dex Cool as im selling the car anyways.
The car runs cool on the Hwy at 180, But as soon as I get in town with lights & stop & go traffic it shoots up to 210 QUICK!
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I should have just bought the Acura TL. These damn Grand Prix's have something always going wrong. Its little stuff. But its annoying!!!!
I have heard 50/50 say dont use the green stuff cause your waterpump and radiator will go south pretty shortly after & then I have heard others say, If you flush the system correctly that use can switch from Dex Cool to the green stuff with no problems. But with my luck I think I will just flush the system & put in fresh Dex Cool as im selling the car anyways.
The car runs cool on the Hwy at 180, But as soon as I get in town with lights & stop & go traffic it shoots up to 210 QUICK!
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07-25-2011, 08:34 AM
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The type of radiator flush machines that shops use don't really clean buildup out of the radiator. The one they had at a Kwik Kar off 30 near Buckner simply put a vacuum on the system to draw out as much coolant as possible but does nothing for clogged radiators.
Most radiator's now are under $200 and the worthless flush is around $100, it would be far wiser to put in a new radiator over wasting the money to flush the system.
A GM running 210 in 100+ degree weather is pretty normal when stopped or in slow speed traffic. A lot of GM cars do not even switch on the fans until around 220 degrees or so, then they can wait as high as the 240's to turn on high speed fans, I have seen many GM cars allow the temp guage to get to 3/4 before the cooling fans are commanded on. The fans should come on with the a/c though as long as there is enough freon in the system etc...
The fact it runs cooler on the highway than it does on the street is a clear indicator that the higher amount of airflow is keeping the car cooler, so that means you need to look and make sure both fans are working, you may have a cooling fan, fan relay, fan fuse going out that is causing it to run warmer, it will also keep the a/c from working.
Most radiator's now are under $200 and the worthless flush is around $100, it would be far wiser to put in a new radiator over wasting the money to flush the system.
A GM running 210 in 100+ degree weather is pretty normal when stopped or in slow speed traffic. A lot of GM cars do not even switch on the fans until around 220 degrees or so, then they can wait as high as the 240's to turn on high speed fans, I have seen many GM cars allow the temp guage to get to 3/4 before the cooling fans are commanded on. The fans should come on with the a/c though as long as there is enough freon in the system etc...
The fact it runs cooler on the highway than it does on the street is a clear indicator that the higher amount of airflow is keeping the car cooler, so that means you need to look and make sure both fans are working, you may have a cooling fan, fan relay, fan fuse going out that is causing it to run warmer, it will also keep the a/c from working.
Last edited by 00pooterSS; 07-25-2011 at 08:40 AM.
07-25-2011, 10:01 AM
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The type of radiator flush machines that shops use don't really clean buildup out of the radiator. The one they had at a Kwik Kar off 30 near Buckner simply put a vacuum on the system to draw out as much coolant as possible but does nothing for clogged radiators.
Most radiator's now are under $200 and the worthless flush is around $100, it would be far wiser to put in a new radiator over wasting the money to flush the system.
A GM running 210 in 100+ degree weather is pretty normal when stopped or in slow speed traffic. A lot of GM cars do not even switch on the fans until around 220 degrees or so, then they can wait as high as the 240's to turn on high speed fans, I have seen many GM cars allow the temp guage to get to 3/4 before the cooling fans are commanded on. The fans should come on with the a/c though as long as there is enough freon in the system etc...
The fact it runs cooler on the highway than it does on the street is a clear indicator that the higher amount of airflow is keeping the car cooler, so that means you need to look and make sure both fans are working, you may have a cooling fan, fan relay, fan fuse going out that is causing it to run warmer, it will also keep the a/c from working.
Most radiator's now are under $200 and the worthless flush is around $100, it would be far wiser to put in a new radiator over wasting the money to flush the system.
A GM running 210 in 100+ degree weather is pretty normal when stopped or in slow speed traffic. A lot of GM cars do not even switch on the fans until around 220 degrees or so, then they can wait as high as the 240's to turn on high speed fans, I have seen many GM cars allow the temp guage to get to 3/4 before the cooling fans are commanded on. The fans should come on with the a/c though as long as there is enough freon in the system etc...
The fact it runs cooler on the highway than it does on the street is a clear indicator that the higher amount of airflow is keeping the car cooler, so that means you need to look and make sure both fans are working, you may have a cooling fan, fan relay, fan fuse going out that is causing it to run warmer, it will also keep the a/c from working.
I do have a ZZP Performance 1.0 Tune PCM that needs to be installed. I am waiting to install it till I get my overheating problem fixed & the New Fuel Filter & Autolite 104 plugs in & then planned on installing the PCM 1.0 Tune, ZZP said they set the fans on the tune to come on earlier.
07-25-2011, 10:12 AM
#7
Thanks Pooter. Never really occured to me to check the fans. I was just more worried about he Dex Cool as my Radiator cap is all sludged up with brown sludge from this Dex Cool which leads me to believe the rest of the Radiator is also the same way.
I do have a ZZP Performance 1.0 Tune PCM that needs to be installed. I am waiting to install it till I get my overheating problem fixed & the New Fuel Filter & Autolite 104 plugs in & then planned on installing the PCM 1.0 Tune, ZZP said they set the fans on the tune to come on earlier.
I do have a ZZP Performance 1.0 Tune PCM that needs to be installed. I am waiting to install it till I get my overheating problem fixed & the New Fuel Filter & Autolite 104 plugs in & then planned on installing the PCM 1.0 Tune, ZZP said they set the fans on the tune to come on earlier.
There is a pretty good chance the radiator is somewhat clogged if the cap has buildup, but the only real way to clear out the radiator is to remove it and take it to a radiator shop and have them dis-assemble it and clean it, it's not very cost effective to do that like it used to be, besides plastic tanks on radiators get weak and split over time so really there is no point in fixing up an old radiator that probably doesn't have much time left. Just put in a new one if it is clogged and save your self time and money.
If it is clogged and you replace it, hose everything out real well with the water hose and back flush the heater core. I would recommend a new radiator cap as well.
If it needs a radiator and you need someone to install it let me know, I need to add some money to my transmission fund.
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07-25-2011, 10:16 AM
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Yeah i'm not the biggest fan of dexcool, some times when I do water pumps and have the cooling system all open I will take a water hose and flush the block and radiator and switch the car to green coolant, but in my SS I just keep an eye on the coolant and change it earlier than recommended also.
There is a pretty good chance the radiator is somewhat clogged if the cap has buildup, but the only real way to clear out the radiator is to remove it and take it to a radiator shop and have them dis-assemble it and clean it, it's not very cost effective to do that like it used to be, besides plastic tanks on radiators get weak and split over time so really there is no point in fixing up an old radiator that probably doesn't have much time left. Just put in a new one if it is clogged and save your self time and money.
If it is clogged and you replace it, hose everything out real well with the water hose and back flush the heater core. I would recommend a new radiator cap as well.
If it needs a radiator and you need someone to install it let me know, I need to add some money to my transmission fund.
There is a pretty good chance the radiator is somewhat clogged if the cap has buildup, but the only real way to clear out the radiator is to remove it and take it to a radiator shop and have them dis-assemble it and clean it, it's not very cost effective to do that like it used to be, besides plastic tanks on radiators get weak and split over time so really there is no point in fixing up an old radiator that probably doesn't have much time left. Just put in a new one if it is clogged and save your self time and money.
If it is clogged and you replace it, hose everything out real well with the water hose and back flush the heater core. I would recommend a new radiator cap as well.
If it needs a radiator and you need someone to install it let me know, I need to add some money to my transmission fund.
