Tig welder question?
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Tig welder question? Just wondering if anything has to be done to a TIG setup to weld different materials.
Say if you wanted to weld some aluminum and you were welding stainless previously would you have to change anything on the machine. I know the settings would change but, anything else? OR is it as easy at going and getting a different filler rod and starting welding?
Thanks
John
Say if you wanted to weld some aluminum and you were welding stainless previously would you have to change anything on the machine. I know the settings would change but, anything else? OR is it as easy at going and getting a different filler rod and starting welding?
Thanks
John
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From: Deep in the seedy underworld of Koonerville
Originally Posted by G2 LS1
Its just as easy as having 2 different filler rods, and then switching the settings on the machine 
Watcha think bout john?
Watcha think bout john?
x2 
Got any decent used machines you want to get rid of?
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From: Deep in the seedy underworld of Koonerville
One other thing Mr. Knight 
Do I need a AC/DC
machine to weld any metal or will a DC Tig welder work? I want something I can weld aluminum and stainless with.
Also, is this machine any good. I don't need something major just for recreational use.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...category=45031
Ok, found out I'll need a AC/DC machine to weld aluminum, stainless, or mild with.
How about this Hobart?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...category=45031
Do I need a AC/DC
machine to weld any metal or will a DC Tig welder work? I want something I can weld aluminum and stainless with.Also, is this machine any good. I don't need something major just for recreational use.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...category=45031
Ok, found out I'll need a AC/DC machine to weld aluminum, stainless, or mild with.
How about this Hobart?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...category=45031
Last edited by XLR8NSS; Nov 17, 2003 at 04:24 PM.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...category=45031
Thats what harlan has, and thats what Im contemplating on going with for my 2 years left here at school. The only other one is the dynasty. It welds aluminum like no other, but im not sure on its steel capabilities.
BR has a good rep, and dirt cheap prices.
As far as AC/DC- we use both.
With the amount and heat with some of the stuff I do, we have a water cooled torch. Initial investment is high- ~ 500 for a cooler, and some other odds n ends- watercooled torch ( say an SR-20) can be found on Ebay for ~ 50-60 $. I just bought one, hoses and all for 52+ shipping. To me, the advantage is a smaller torch, and less heat
PM sent
Thats what harlan has, and thats what Im contemplating on going with for my 2 years left here at school. The only other one is the dynasty. It welds aluminum like no other, but im not sure on its steel capabilities.
BR has a good rep, and dirt cheap prices.
As far as AC/DC- we use both.
With the amount and heat with some of the stuff I do, we have a water cooled torch. Initial investment is high- ~ 500 for a cooler, and some other odds n ends- watercooled torch ( say an SR-20) can be found on Ebay for ~ 50-60 $. I just bought one, hoses and all for 52+ shipping. To me, the advantage is a smaller torch, and less heat
PM sent
Originally Posted by G2 LS1
Its just as easy as having 2 different filler rods, and then switching the settings on the machine
This is not always correct, depending on the machine you are using. Generally you would use 2% Tungsten for SS and MS, but on aluminum you will want to use pure Tungsten. Changing out the cup is also a good idea. If you are fortunate to have a Miller Dynasty (I may know where five of them are
) you can use the 2% for pretty much everything you'll encounter. They are definately a top notch machine for all metals. Water coolers are also nice to have and well worth the money. Just my .02 Last edited by WOOS1; Nov 18, 2003 at 11:12 AM.
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From: Deep in the seedy underworld of Koonerville
Originally Posted by ta12sec
I would kill myself trying to rig something like that up. Very cool though.WOOS1 - I'll have to look at the dyansty series but, I think they're a little outta my price range.
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Verdad Gallardo "I would kill myself trying to rig something like that up"
Just a battery an alternator and a 5 hp lawn mower engine. Fab up a frame and plug in your tig gun.
IM in the process of building a battery/alt/5 hp deal right now (for a generator) but I may just pick up a tig gun and have at it.
Just a battery an alternator and a 5 hp lawn mower engine. Fab up a frame and plug in your tig gun.
IM in the process of building a battery/alt/5 hp deal right now (for a generator) but I may just pick up a tig gun and have at it.
Originally Posted by G2 LS1
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...category=45031
Thats what harlan has, and thats what Im contemplating on going with for my 2 years left here at school. The only other one is the dynasty. It welds aluminum like no other, but im not sure on its steel capabilities.
BR has a good rep, and dirt cheap prices.
As far as AC/DC- we use both.
With the amount and heat with some of the stuff I do, we have a water cooled torch. Initial investment is high- ~ 500 for a cooler, and some other odds n ends- watercooled torch ( say an SR-20) can be found on Ebay for ~ 50-60 $. I just bought one, hoses and all for 52+ shipping. To me, the advantage is a smaller torch, and less heat
PM sent
Thats what harlan has, and thats what Im contemplating on going with for my 2 years left here at school. The only other one is the dynasty. It welds aluminum like no other, but im not sure on its steel capabilities.
BR has a good rep, and dirt cheap prices.
As far as AC/DC- we use both.
With the amount and heat with some of the stuff I do, we have a water cooled torch. Initial investment is high- ~ 500 for a cooler, and some other odds n ends- watercooled torch ( say an SR-20) can be found on Ebay for ~ 50-60 $. I just bought one, hoses and all for 52+ shipping. To me, the advantage is a smaller torch, and less heat
PM sent
Thanks
I've had plenty of sucess doing 3/8" with it. And a handful of intercoolers and my radiator. It takes a few seconds to get enough heat into the piece to get the puddle to wet, but once you're moving it's plenty.
Just make sure your 220 feed is up to it, constatly flipping breakers SUCKS!! You'll have no problem with steel at full tilt, but aluminum will trip a wussy breaker FAST.
I'd kill for an adjustable D.C. on the AC setting, but it get's the job done.
Just make sure your 220 feed is up to it, constatly flipping breakers SUCKS!! You'll have no problem with steel at full tilt, but aluminum will trip a wussy breaker FAST.
I'd kill for an adjustable D.C. on the AC setting, but it get's the job done.
1/4 inch aluminum is thick. The Dynasty should power through that, and our syncrowave 250 is the same way- Welds like butter. The 180 should do the job as well. I would jump on a 180 but I am looking at more of a longterm investment, and the Dynasty has the adj. Hz setting that will allow you to pinpoint the bead right where you want it. Andy from the motorsports division at Miller ran a bead on the CORNER of a 3/16s piece of aluminum!
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Don't forget the Dynasty only weighs like 45lbs compared to 200+ for the syncrowave.
Louis when you find them for half off let me know.
Louis when you find them for half off let me know.
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I receintly bought a Thermal Arc Pro-Wave 185 TSW.
This is a 2 phase 220/208V inverter STICK/TIG power source with 185 Amp output. Input line amerage is under 30A at 185A output full duty cycle. The Miller Syncrowave 180 will pull 68A at full throttle. If you can feed the Syncrowave then consider it..
The T/A 185 is an AC/DC inverter TIG with frequency, slop, pulse, repeat, spot controls (and more). This machine is comparable in features to the Dynasty 200 except the Miller will run off 110V power.
I bought my T/A 185 shipped to my door for $1750 with the ready to weld package which includes foot amerage control, tig tourch with accessory kit (tungstens and some cups), SMAW cable, Victor guages, ground clamp..
The arc on this machine is awsome. You basically get the features and technology of the Dynasty 200 for the price of the Syncrowave 180.
The only problem with the T/A is it's Maroon, not Blue.
This is a 2 phase 220/208V inverter STICK/TIG power source with 185 Amp output. Input line amerage is under 30A at 185A output full duty cycle. The Miller Syncrowave 180 will pull 68A at full throttle. If you can feed the Syncrowave then consider it..
The T/A 185 is an AC/DC inverter TIG with frequency, slop, pulse, repeat, spot controls (and more). This machine is comparable in features to the Dynasty 200 except the Miller will run off 110V power.
I bought my T/A 185 shipped to my door for $1750 with the ready to weld package which includes foot amerage control, tig tourch with accessory kit (tungstens and some cups), SMAW cable, Victor guages, ground clamp..
The arc on this machine is awsome. You basically get the features and technology of the Dynasty 200 for the price of the Syncrowave 180.
The only problem with the T/A is it's Maroon, not Blue.
I have been reading about the HTP welder. It sounds good, but I have not found out the price yet. Anyone have any experiance with it?
http://www.usaweld.com/product_page/...er/tig200.html
I always see their add in the back of the National Dragster Magazine.
http://www.usaweld.com/product_page/...er/tig200.html
I always see their add in the back of the National Dragster Magazine.
usually if you are wanting to tig aluminum together you will need a High Frequecy box to run with you AC current. Alot of machines come with this as a standard but some don't. All other metals are easily welded on the DC cycle. I just have a Miller XMT multipurpose box and Tig off the Stick setting and switch the polarities to make it run right. Multipurpose boxes are awesome because they convert the current so you don't have to have a Tig machine, and a separate Mig machine and a separate Stick machine. Plus they are infinatly adjusted and SMOOOOOOOOOTH.
Just my .02
Just my .02