SSPerformance

iTrader: (76)

No way in hell

thirdgengta350

iTrader: (4)

This is sooo a hilariously awesome concept

RexDiablo

Why would`nt you build a 500 dollar dyno?!

Well, we cant measure hp. Thats truly a thing we dont need since we arent all that "i got 800hp"... Anyway, we need to make a reading so we can calculate if our curve gets better or worse after doing adjustments. A software and RPM counter will probably do the trick..

I mean 500 dollars! This is worth so much more!!

First, and most important.. We dont need to drive illegal cars, illegal on the street. We dont need to hit illegal speeds and risking other peoples life.

Second, as we are in the learing stage with HPtuners (have done some microtech,megasquirt, autronic, haltech earlier) it is good to have the car stationary for many reasons.

Third, because we CAN =D

And last one...
Doesnt this just look great?!
(car has been "used" haha)

98PurpleT/A

iTrader: (16)

Whats up with the muffler??

RexDiablo

it ends just above the roof but we added one more to lower the sound.. We got a pair of scared horses on the other side of the barn...

The reason it is out of the trunk in the first place is bc of the rear mount turbo setup..

RexDiablo

http://s8.photobucket.com/albums/a10...t=IMG_0153.flv

Here is the video.. Poor quality! Dont know why iphone has to be so different.. It makes the telephone SUCK imo

Inbred

iTrader: (5)

a+ on effort

danbap

iTrader: (6)

thats awesome!!! great work.

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

This is wrong for so many reasons. Carry on

ici8uup

the rear tires will handle it i'v gone 100 mph with a 100.000 lbs loaded as far as the locker in the rear not all heavy truck axels can lock wheel to wheel you got a optioned rear end most can only lock axel to axel speed as far as the brakes being able to hold the engine back that won't be a problem. air keeps the brakes off there are spring loaded to lock in case of air pres loss you can also but a aftermarket disc brake setup for them reaends you can also pull the axels cut them off and bolt the caps back on and take the differental out of the equasion all together then just use the slack adjusters to make sure both tires turn with the same amount of force whatever you do don't remove the brake chamber without compressing the brake spring IT CAN KILL YOU!!!!!

RexDiablo

Have you done this before? =) Nice info!
If you have, how did you controll the brakes? We got problems adjusting the force!

ici8uup

no just been around mixers trucks and heavy equipment, aircraft, You should find two lines that go to each chamber, one for pressure in in one for exaust. you might go back to the shop where you got the axel from and get the brake pedal assembly which has the control valve on it. The springs will over come the air pressure around 60-70 psi you need at least a 90-100 psi to keep them off. 120 p.s.i would be ideal. I would T the inlet lines together to run air into the chambers and a seperate line for the locking diff part. And you could T the exaust lines together to like a ball valve to control the relase of the brakes remember they don't just dump all the air when you touch the pedal it's more of a controlled leak. As far as adjusting the brakes themselves you should be able to see the shoes through the backing plate if not just cut a hole in it. Althought not necesarry it makes it easier to adjust em. At the end of the brake chamber you will find whats called a slack adjuster it should be auotmatic being that new of an axel but they don't always work in perfect unision at the slack adjuster there should be a 9/16 or 7/16 in bolt in the adjuster tighten them down untill the shoes hit the drum them back them off a 1/4 -1/2 turn on both sides they tighten easy backing them off they turn hard and click this will make the braking force even across the axel. I would also drop the air pressure in the tires to around 80 p.s.i to leave room for heat build up in the brakes which will end up heating the tires up this way you don't have to worry about an tire explosion. also inspect the tire caps from time to time so it don't throw a cap and tear your car up. If you have you bud rims you could take the outside wheel off all together to save weight and keep em for spares Believe it or not the brake drums and shoes are only like 150 per axel there way cheap so tear it up!! this is how it works for american built truck i see your in norway? those brakes are really simple there an s-cam just get the t-tool that fits in the chamber to relase the pressure and it takes like 30 minits to put shoes in hope this helps any more questions feel free to ask!

Silverback

HP will stay the same, rpm and torque will change, and rpm and torque are what you can measure.

If you want to get static hp and torque numbers (what it stabilizes at a given rpm, like what a mustang dyno does) then what you want to do is mount a single large brake (on the input is as good a place as any, there is room there...), it could be water (like a torque converter), drum or disk, I'd probably look at truck or aircraft parts. Mount what is applying the braking force (caliper...) to an arm, and then that arm is mounted to a stationary mount welded to the frame with some sort of a load cell in between. You could use an electronic load cell for $$$ or make a hydraulic one out of a hydraulic piston and a pressure gauge. The pressure read at the gauge x the surface area acted on the piston = the force applied, in other words, if you have a piston with a 10^2 inch area, 50psi on the gauge is = 500lbs force applied to the piston. That force x the radius from the center of the shaft to the average distance from that center where the brake pressure is applied will = torque (in my example in lb-ft, so if that radius is 2', and you got the above gauge reading you'd have 250 lb-ft of torque).

To get a HP number you'd just have to hook up a tachometer (there are loads of cheap ways to do this, you could even use a cheap hand held optical setup or something like a magnet and a coil wired to a microphone input on a frequency counter (a lot of cheap DVM's have them now, there is audio software for laptops that could do it and even log it) and the resultant frequency would be = to rpm (of course, convert units...).

Hp= (torque* rpm) /5252

you can calculate losses to friction, the gears (if you care, even without them you'd have useful numbers for comparison between runs) by timing how fast the whole assembly accelerates/decelerates.

At that point you can take the calculated HP number and the actual rpm the engine is turning and use that to calculate the torque the engine is making (after drivetrain losses).

to calculate dynamic numbers like a dynojet does you'd have to figure total rotational inertia of the setup, and then torque and the resultant hp numbers can be calculated by from the acceleration of the system (logging rpm vs time). Again, that would get you repeatable, comparable numbers for testing on that machine, to get closer to actual numbers you'd have to either introduce a correction factor for the difference between the rotating inertia of the system and the actual resistance to acceleration the car typically sees or to add weight to the system (put weights on the input of the axle) till that force is close (off the top of my head the easiest way to get it in range would be to rig something like a truck or something with some room in the engine bay with a load cell similar to what I described in the first setup in the place of a motor mount and adjust the rotating inerta till the load cell reads the same hydraulic pressure on the "dyno" as it does during the same acceleration on the street.

If you rigged a vehicle with a load cell like this, took it to a dynojet and made some runs, datalogged what the load cell did, adjusted the weight of your setup to match and then adjusted your math/correction factor to give the same hp output you would have it calibrated to match the output of that dynojet so you could reasonably accurately compare numbers between the 2.

RexDiablo

ici8uup:
Thank you for some really usefull information about the brakes! We made the brake controll work like you just said and its very easy to adjust the force. After a couple of runs (quite a bit) we got some smoke of the R/h brake. Not much but you could smell "hot brakes". We have to adjust the nuts you mentioned so the brake force is even.
Do you know how hot/long it will take, if its possible, to get the brake drums glassed? (hardened, what is it called?)
Sounds like a easy job to change brakes though.

Silverback:
Great info and ides! When we get the "dyno" more stationairy we will definately build a way to measure the output. It is to cold working outside here in Norway! Dont know what happened this winter! I want more global warming.

The dyno project is one of the best "scrapheeep"-projects i`ve done for a long time =) It actually works!

Hersker Hans

https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...ed-pics-3.html

Here is a thread on the car, not fully updated, but got some pictures of the STS trunk mounted turbo.

The Dyno is working great, No problems adjusting the brakeforce on the dyno smoothly while operating the car at the same time.

98PurpleT/A

iTrader: (16)

looks fun to drive but it has to be loud.

Hersker Hans

Yes, it is pretty loud actually, and fun to drive .

http://www.vimeo.com/4506502

here is a video showing the car in action, a good clip at 12 min and 15 seconds, lots of other clips off the car in the video to, the other light blue nissan also has an LS1 engine in it.

video of Rexdiablos RX7 when it had a rotary in it to.

Pudding

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fwPuzEhB1LI
Youtube video of dyno run. Norwegian spoken language

bmxer8699

iTrader: (16)

hahaha **** this is hilarious

Black FormulaLs1

iTrader: (10)

this is fkn awesome..hell of a job baed off an idea ..by real do it yourselfer's!!!! congratulation on getting it to work!!! and then video proof to boot!