Good pulley puller and installer
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From: Michigan (Macomb or Lansing)
Good pulley puller and installer Ive had to install and remove these things many times on mine and friends cars. IVe always used shotty pullers that break and i only got to use an install tool once.
does anyone know where i can get a good pulley puller that will work and not fall apart without breaking the bank and an install tool?
does anyone know where i can get a good pulley puller that will work and not fall apart without breaking the bank and an install tool?
Formerly darynC-10/23/10
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From: gonzales louisiana
i got a puller from advance that was about 24$ .... it worked fine for me!!!
as for the install tool. just go to lowes and get a longer than stock crank bolt. it should work just fine!!!
as for the install tool. just go to lowes and get a longer than stock crank bolt. it should work just fine!!!
I rent a pulley puller from Autozone when I need one. Works fine every time. They sell the same ones they rent and they are fairly cheap.
I bought an instal tool from a guy on here that is a threaded rod with a nut and washers. It takes the pressure off the threads when pressing the pulley on. Drawing the pulley on with a bolt can cause some problems. My buddy found that out the hard way.
I bought an instal tool from a guy on here that is a threaded rod with a nut and washers. It takes the pressure off the threads when pressing the pulley on. Drawing the pulley on with a bolt can cause some problems. My buddy found that out the hard way.
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You probably wouldn't find a better deal on a quality balancer puller and installer than this Alltrade #648637 kit. You get both, the puller & installer, for only about $10 more than a homemade installer sold on this site.
Mike
Mike
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You probably wouldn't find a better deal on a quality balancer puller and installer than this Alltrade #648637 kit. You get both, the puller & installer, for only about $10 more than a homemade installer sold on this site.
Mike
Mike
It'll work on an aftermarket dampner, but never the stock balancer
Hammering the balancer on also works, but it doesnt mean its in the same realm as a good idea
done it for years. slap yourself.
It's been said many times, ..., When you use the same or longer bolt, you are turning the threads in the crank using extreme pressure on the threads when screwing it in. There is a high risk of thread damage doing it that way.
If you use the installer tools, ..., you thread the stud/bolt into the crank snout, then use the nut on the outside to drive the pulley on. No spinning threads in the crank snout until the final tighten of the end-use bolt.
Minimal risk in this manner.
If you use the installer tools, ..., you thread the stud/bolt into the crank snout, then use the nut on the outside to drive the pulley on. No spinning threads in the crank snout until the final tighten of the end-use bolt.
Minimal risk in this manner.
The balancer is an interference fit, so it requires great force to be pressed on. Using a bolt will turn the threads inside the crank snout and coupled with the resistance of the balancer being pulled on is enough to risk stripping or atleast marring the threads inside the crank. You may be good for a few times using this method, but eventually your luck will run out. Stripped crank snouts arent unheard of in the LSx world. The tool costs less than a new crank too
This is the puller specifically designed to pull newer GM balancers, and the one I use...
http://www.spx.usatoolwarehouse.com/.../OTC-6667.html
This puller is 10x better than any garbage you're going to rent or buy at any parts store, it's much easier to use, and puts force on the pulley in the right places to make for quick removal. With the older 3-jaw pullers, you need a good bit of leverage to pull them off. With this puller I can use a stubby 3/8 ratchet and it yanks it right off.
As for install, there's 2 ways you can do it.
-There's a member here that sells a pretty slick tool for it
-Take a propane torch and heat your pulley snout up for a few minutes. Should slide on enough to start threading the stock bolt.
http://www.spx.usatoolwarehouse.com/.../OTC-6667.html
This puller is 10x better than any garbage you're going to rent or buy at any parts store, it's much easier to use, and puts force on the pulley in the right places to make for quick removal. With the older 3-jaw pullers, you need a good bit of leverage to pull them off. With this puller I can use a stubby 3/8 ratchet and it yanks it right off.
As for install, there's 2 ways you can do it.
-There's a member here that sells a pretty slick tool for it
-Take a propane torch and heat your pulley snout up for a few minutes. Should slide on enough to start threading the stock bolt.
This is the puller specifically designed to pull newer GM balancers, and the one I use...
http://www.spx.usatoolwarehouse.com/.../OTC-6667.html
This puller is 10x better than any garbage you're going to rent or buy at any parts store, it's much easier to use, and puts force on the pulley in the right places to make for quick removal. With the older 3-jaw pullers, you need a good bit of leverage to pull them off. With this puller I can use a stubby 3/8 ratchet and it yanks it right off.
http://www.spx.usatoolwarehouse.com/.../OTC-6667.html
This puller is 10x better than any garbage you're going to rent or buy at any parts store, it's much easier to use, and puts force on the pulley in the right places to make for quick removal. With the older 3-jaw pullers, you need a good bit of leverage to pull them off. With this puller I can use a stubby 3/8 ratchet and it yanks it right off.
