Post your best welds!
80 amps should be enough, but what type of joint is it and what filler rod are you using?
Either way, I'd probably dial 100 amps on something that thick and use the pedal to control heat. I like to get a good puddle going and then I can pull the heat back from there to weld.
Either way, I'd probably dial 100 amps on something that thick and use the pedal to control heat. I like to get a good puddle going and then I can pull the heat back from there to weld.
E70s2 rod, making transmission crossmember, so a couple 90 degree welds for the brace off the bottom and where it will attach to the crossmember tube.
Chassis shop made me one for a glide but it won't work for the th400 so I made a new plate that will work with a glide or th400 so I have one universal mount, just cutting the old plate off and welding this one on. I will attach via a weld on both sides of the plate, and the small brace I'm planning to make will run along the bottom like a back brace. Something fancy/add a little strength to it just to be safe and because I have time.
Chassis shop made me one for a glide but it won't work for the th400 so I made a new plate that will work with a glide or th400 so I have one universal mount, just cutting the old plate off and welding this one on. I will attach via a weld on both sides of the plate, and the small brace I'm planning to make will run along the bottom like a back brace. Something fancy/add a little strength to it just to be safe and because I have time.
Butt joint will require less heat. Typically with a lap joint, you can start the puddle on the base material and wash the filler into the added piece.
I'm not really sure I understand what your making. But .062" thick sheet metal really shouldn't be used structurally in my opinion, and then if trying to do so, you have to add enough heat to actually add filler material and the work piece ends up warping and/or at least having some nasty tension in it. .062" sheet metal is typically "glued" together using a silicon bronze filler rod and low amperage to keep the HAZ small and the work piece it's actual original size.
I recall you mentioning that you are building a trans x-member. I'd probably be using .125" 4130 at a minimum on something like that. Depending on the size or span of the structural parts .125" will likely be plenty thick, however there are instances that .187" thick material would be useful. .250" is overkill in most all cases except extreme off road **** that sees ridiculous loads.
I'm not really sure I understand what your making. But .062" thick sheet metal really shouldn't be used structurally in my opinion, and then if trying to do so, you have to add enough heat to actually add filler material and the work piece ends up warping and/or at least having some nasty tension in it. .062" sheet metal is typically "glued" together using a silicon bronze filler rod and low amperage to keep the HAZ small and the work piece it's actual original size.
I recall you mentioning that you are building a trans x-member. I'd probably be using .125" 4130 at a minimum on something like that. Depending on the size or span of the structural parts .125" will likely be plenty thick, however there are instances that .187" thick material would be useful. .250" is overkill in most all cases except extreme off road **** that sees ridiculous loads.
Sorry it is .125 thick 4130 plate...the .625 was a measurement I was taking of it and I was typing that while I was drawing it up.
Here's the mounting plate I cut out the slots on the Bridgeport, it's slotted so I can put a th400 or glide on the same mount. Going to make a rib down the middle to add support once I have it welded on where I want to. I will have to trim it back a little opposite the slot I just wanted to leave it big, asi won't finish it until the motor/Trans is back in, hopefully next week
Here's the mounting plate I cut out the slots on the Bridgeport, it's slotted so I can put a th400 or glide on the same mount. Going to make a rib down the middle to add support once I have it welded on where I want to. I will have to trim it back a little opposite the slot I just wanted to leave it big, asi won't finish it until the motor/Trans is back in, hopefully next week
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Verdad Gallardo Ok I'll give it a shot. Once the headers are welded up and back I can put the motor back in and wrap this up. Damn good chance this may be the last time I have to pull it out before the car runs!
Teching In
Joined: Jun 2015
Posts: 36
Likes: 0
Still a weldering student, however this is my spool gun aluminum. I begin tig next semester which starts in January.
I plan on swapping a 6.0l ly6 into this. Which I picked up Wednesday from the dealership in work at. Got it for a smoking deal with a 4.8l in it.
I plan on swapping a 6.0l ly6 into this. Which I picked up Wednesday from the dealership in work at. Got it for a smoking deal with a 4.8l in it.
This thread is awesome. You guys are good. I have absolutely zero experience for any kind of welding, well besides jb weld lol. I want to buy a good starter rig welder so I can learn to do my own cage work and fab stuff. This is inspiring.
TECH Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 8,034
Likes: 663