Stripped allen head bolt
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TECH Enthusiast
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Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 740
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From: San Francisco
The bolt is actually not even on my car, its on the mnotorcycle im tryin' to fix. Its got a rounded head like a machine screw so vice grips are out. I was gonna try the dremel thing but that took forever last time and I just wanted to see if anyone had any other ideas.
Originally Posted by 9silverbird8
Just like it says. Anyone got any ideas for removing that sucker?
http://www.caseytool.com/twistsockets.html
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You could try an "EZ-Out" bit...something like this:
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...id=00952156000
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...id=00952156000
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http://www.arizonatools.com/catalog/...1038&catId=116
will work
http://www.etoolcart.com/browseprodu...AHN-11135.HTML
is the kit I use
12 pt torx bits can also be pounded i nand used to remove em
I get to deal with lots of stripped allen and torx becasue the germans seem to think they are the cats *** ......................they arent
will work
http://www.etoolcart.com/browseprodu...AHN-11135.HTML
is the kit I use
12 pt torx bits can also be pounded i nand used to remove em
I get to deal with lots of stripped allen and torx becasue the germans seem to think they are the cats *** ......................they arent
Originally Posted by DynoDR
How about a "twist socket"?
http://www.caseytool.com/twistsockets.html
http://www.caseytool.com/twistsockets.html
best tool I bought off the matco lady
Originally Posted by tuff
If you had a welder you could weld a nut over the stud and weld through the nut to the stud like a plug weld.
Thread Starter
TECH Enthusiast
iTrader: (19)
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 740
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From: San Francisco
Originally Posted by ta12sec
http://www.arizonatools.com/catalog/...1038&catId=116
will work
http://www.etoolcart.com/browseprodu...AHN-11135.HTML
is the kit I use
12 pt torx bits can also be pounded i nand used to remove em
I get to deal with lots of stripped allen and torx becasue the germans seem to think they are the cats *** ......................they arent
will work
http://www.etoolcart.com/browseprodu...AHN-11135.HTML
is the kit I use
12 pt torx bits can also be pounded i nand used to remove em
I get to deal with lots of stripped allen and torx becasue the germans seem to think they are the cats *** ......................they arent
On The Tree
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 116
Likes: 0
From: Elizabethton, TN
Originally Posted by ta12sec
I get to deal with lots of stripped allen and torx becasue the germans seem to think they are the cats *** ......................they arent
Give me a hex head any day of the week. 
Please help!!!!!
Thanks in advance.
Last edited by jdoyle; Aug 14, 2012 at 11:32 PM.
Every motorcycle owner ought to have a hand impact driver.
They cost about 10-20 bucks and come with a 5/16" hex that
takes Philips (so you can back out those crusty Jap bike
case screws and replace them with Allens) and a 3/8" square
drive head (so you can put an Allen bit on there). A 2# baby
sledgehammer and a little wrist tension, and these suckers
work great. The happer forces the bit into the fastener just
when you need it to.
Not all of them come with the 3/8 square socket bit, watch
for that. The cheap $6.99 Harbor Freight one looks to not,
but I've picked up flea market ones for 5 bucks that did.
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_SPM3278860402P
They cost about 10-20 bucks and come with a 5/16" hex that
takes Philips (so you can back out those crusty Jap bike
case screws and replace them with Allens) and a 3/8" square
drive head (so you can put an Allen bit on there). A 2# baby
sledgehammer and a little wrist tension, and these suckers
work great. The happer forces the bit into the fastener just
when you need it to.
Not all of them come with the 3/8 square socket bit, watch
for that. The cheap $6.99 Harbor Freight one looks to not,
but I've picked up flea market ones for 5 bucks that did.
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_SPM3278860402P
Every motorcycle owner ought to have a hand impact driver.
They cost about 10-20 bucks and come with a 5/16" hex that
takes Philips (so you can back out those crusty Jap bike
case screws and replace them with Allens) and a 3/8" square
drive head (so you can put an Allen bit on there). A 2# baby
sledgehammer and a little wrist tension, and these suckers
work great. The happer forces the bit into the fastener just
when you need it to.
Not all of them come with the 3/8 square socket bit, watch
for that. The cheap $6.99 Harbor Freight one looks to not,
but I've picked up flea market ones for 5 bucks that did.
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_SPM3278860402P
They cost about 10-20 bucks and come with a 5/16" hex that
takes Philips (so you can back out those crusty Jap bike
case screws and replace them with Allens) and a 3/8" square
drive head (so you can put an Allen bit on there). A 2# baby
sledgehammer and a little wrist tension, and these suckers
work great. The happer forces the bit into the fastener just
when you need it to.
Not all of them come with the 3/8 square socket bit, watch
for that. The cheap $6.99 Harbor Freight one looks to not,
but I've picked up flea market ones for 5 bucks that did.
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_SPM3278860402P
The nature of combining steel fastener and aluminum, over time, vibration, expansion, contraction and galvanic action will ended up with difficulty in fastener removal.
I have SnapOn, IMO, use good tools to avoid the painfull damage controls!
The cool thing about the hand tool is that you're actually
driving the bit into the workpiece just when you need the
seating force to fight cam-out. An impact gun, you can lean
into it but that's still only a hundred or so pounds of in-force
(unless you're sitting on it). But the "impact" is pure rotary.
If the Allen in question is rounded beyond help, another
idea might be to get a slightly oversized Torx bit, call it
expendable and use the hand impact tool to pound it in
and hopefully grab. Maybe bevel the lead face a hair, to
help it in.
driving the bit into the workpiece just when you need the
seating force to fight cam-out. An impact gun, you can lean
into it but that's still only a hundred or so pounds of in-force
(unless you're sitting on it). But the "impact" is pure rotary.
If the Allen in question is rounded beyond help, another
idea might be to get a slightly oversized Torx bit, call it
expendable and use the hand impact tool to pound it in
and hopefully grab. Maybe bevel the lead face a hair, to
help it in.
The cool thing about the hand tool is that you're actually
driving the bit into the workpiece just when you need the
seating force to fight cam-out. An impact gun, you can lean
into it but that's still only a hundred or so pounds of in-force
(unless you're sitting on it). But the "impact" is pure rotary.
If the Allen in question is rounded beyond help, another
idea might be to get a slightly oversized Torx bit, call it
expendable and use the hand impact tool to pound it in
and hopefully grab. Maybe bevel the lead face a hair, to
help it in.
driving the bit into the workpiece just when you need the
seating force to fight cam-out. An impact gun, you can lean
into it but that's still only a hundred or so pounds of in-force
(unless you're sitting on it). But the "impact" is pure rotary.
If the Allen in question is rounded beyond help, another
idea might be to get a slightly oversized Torx bit, call it
expendable and use the hand impact tool to pound it in
and hopefully grab. Maybe bevel the lead face a hair, to
help it in.
Not trying to be argumentive, TIA!!