Newb question -- Will this cut steel?
#1
Newb question -- Will this cut steel?
Will this grinder cut through a steel bracket?
http://www.blackanddecker.com/produc...view=5#details
If it does, I imagine that I'll have to buy a different wheel for that. The wheel it came with only seems appropriate for grinding.
http://www.blackanddecker.com/produc...view=5#details
If it does, I imagine that I'll have to buy a different wheel for that. The wheel it came with only seems appropriate for grinding.
#2
I've got a Dewalt 4 1/2" Grinder that I use for a cut off wheel all the time. Just buy the correct wheels for it and you can cut mostly anything. I don't see why the Black and Decker wouldn't be the same.
#4
I bought a cheapy grinder (i dont even know if it has a brand name to it ) from a traveling tool sale and all I did was buy a different wheel and cut stuff all the time with it. That one should work.
#6
My Hitachi angle grinder is one of my favorite tools. It runs smooth and cool, and will flat out throw some sparks across the room!
(It was my favorite... until I got my Milwaukee Framing Nailer up and working this weekend... I dunno, now it's a toss up )
(It was my favorite... until I got my Milwaukee Framing Nailer up and working this weekend... I dunno, now it's a toss up )
#7
The cutoff wheels for a 5/8-11 (there is also a metric
spindle size that you don't want, for maximum options,
check it out) are going to have a pretty wide kerf.
But no denying, it will hog some metal.
I got a "high speed cutoff tool" air powered at the
Harbor Freight for under ten bucks, suibsequently
went on sale for about $6, and packs of 3" cutoff
wheels 25/$5.99. I have used the cutoffs with a 3/8"
arbor in a die grinder but it's a little awkward with
the long snout and the omnidirectional spray of
sparks. The purpose cutoff tool has a shroud.
For long cuts you might want to buy the cheapest
possible circular saw that comes with a metal blade
guard, and a 7" metal cutting abrasive blade. That
saw will not have a very happy life, but I have a
crappy old plastic Black and Decker garage sale one
that's still hanging on doing the dirty work while
the shiny new one gets to chew soft pine.
spindle size that you don't want, for maximum options,
check it out) are going to have a pretty wide kerf.
But no denying, it will hog some metal.
I got a "high speed cutoff tool" air powered at the
Harbor Freight for under ten bucks, suibsequently
went on sale for about $6, and packs of 3" cutoff
wheels 25/$5.99. I have used the cutoffs with a 3/8"
arbor in a die grinder but it's a little awkward with
the long snout and the omnidirectional spray of
sparks. The purpose cutoff tool has a shroud.
For long cuts you might want to buy the cheapest
possible circular saw that comes with a metal blade
guard, and a 7" metal cutting abrasive blade. That
saw will not have a very happy life, but I have a
crappy old plastic Black and Decker garage sale one
that's still hanging on doing the dirty work while
the shiny new one gets to chew soft pine.
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#9
I couldn't open your link for some reason but, I've found that when it comes to grinders, invest alittle money if you plan to use it alot. My current grinder is a 4.5" 7.5amp Craftsman professional. It does pretty good, I actually run 5" Cutoff wheels on it and it's been going strong for more than a year now. I wouldn't get anything with less than a 5.0 amp motor, that would do ok for cutting stuff but would suck ***** for heavy grinding. Also make sure it has a metal gear case. My last two cheaper ones had plastic gear cases and they both broke apart inside and ate themselves up.
Be ready to buy plenty of cutoff wheels, they go pretty quick.
Be ready to buy plenty of cutoff wheels, they go pretty quick.
#10
Will it cut metal brackets? Sure, just like in these pics off the site:
FWIW, a lot of people like the paddle/trigger switch setup like that has… I don’t. I use them a lot and I have a few floating around, a Rigid 8.5A (it’s a freaking monster, that one is actually built by hilti, identical except for the color and price), I also have 2 smaller/cheap HF ones, one orange that I’ve had for years and years and really liked but finally cracked the head (not it’s fault, I clamped it in the vice to use as a stationary grinder and tightned it too tight) and a second blue “drill master” that is the same size as the orange one but with a wimpier motor. They’re all fine, can all hack some pretty heavy duty stuff and can all get you into trouble pretty fast if you’re not paying attention. Even with the cracked head the orange HF one still sees a lot of work, I just try not to use it with heavy wire wheels and for heavy grinding anymore.
FWIW, I use the 4.5” one like a surgical tool, I’ve cut out things like throttle arms/brackets… with them, but one of my friends that also does a lot of this kind of work ran into that the 4.5” Makita that he had (6.5amps… decent, slightly weird ergonomics, but not the monster that the rigid is) was too battle axe like for fine work for him, so he got a second, 4” Makita that he likes to use for cutting… it actually annoys me and I’ve done a lot of this kind of work over there… the sacrifice in cutting depth isn’t really made up for by it being easier to control… the 4.5 is easy enough.
I’ve also had the milwakee one… I thought that I would really like it but between the paddle switch and the thick body I wasn’t as thrilled with it so I exchanged it for the Rigid.
Shop around, most of the better quality ones are available in a thin kerf, down to about .040” thick (I like the Norton ones, but use a lot of dewalt ones because they’re usually sitting at the checkout at HD and I grab some to refresh stock). The thin kerf ones cut a lot faster if you’re careful with them.
I’d stay away from them unless you have a nice compressor… I used mine all the time but they get really annoying with a small compressor. It’s also much more difficult to find nice, thin kerf cutting wheels for them.
These blades are just plain sick… I have one for my milwakee circular saw but haven’t had the guts to use it a lot yet (it’s seen miles of aluminum though that I used to just use a normal carbide blade for)…
http://www.metaldevil.com/Movies/Stainless.wmv
here’s more:
http://www.metaldevil.com/seeing.html
They’re OK for what they are… at least for the 3” air cutoff stuff, I don’t remember the 4.5” ones being at all decent, but that may have changed. Actually, I like them better for the 3” stuff then what I can get at the local autoparts and hardware stores so I do have a big pack of them out in the garage.
FWIW, a lot of people like the paddle/trigger switch setup like that has… I don’t. I use them a lot and I have a few floating around, a Rigid 8.5A (it’s a freaking monster, that one is actually built by hilti, identical except for the color and price), I also have 2 smaller/cheap HF ones, one orange that I’ve had for years and years and really liked but finally cracked the head (not it’s fault, I clamped it in the vice to use as a stationary grinder and tightned it too tight) and a second blue “drill master” that is the same size as the orange one but with a wimpier motor. They’re all fine, can all hack some pretty heavy duty stuff and can all get you into trouble pretty fast if you’re not paying attention. Even with the cracked head the orange HF one still sees a lot of work, I just try not to use it with heavy wire wheels and for heavy grinding anymore.
FWIW, I use the 4.5” one like a surgical tool, I’ve cut out things like throttle arms/brackets… with them, but one of my friends that also does a lot of this kind of work ran into that the 4.5” Makita that he had (6.5amps… decent, slightly weird ergonomics, but not the monster that the rigid is) was too battle axe like for fine work for him, so he got a second, 4” Makita that he likes to use for cutting… it actually annoys me and I’ve done a lot of this kind of work over there… the sacrifice in cutting depth isn’t really made up for by it being easier to control… the 4.5 is easy enough.
I’ve also had the milwakee one… I thought that I would really like it but between the paddle switch and the thick body I wasn’t as thrilled with it so I exchanged it for the Rigid.
Originally Posted by jimmyblue
The cutoff wheels for a 5/8-11 (there is also a metric
spindle size that you don't want, for maximum options,
check it out) are going to have a pretty wide kerf.
But no denying, it will hog some metal.
spindle size that you don't want, for maximum options,
check it out) are going to have a pretty wide kerf.
But no denying, it will hog some metal.
I got a "high speed cutoff tool" air powered at the
Harbor Freight for under ten bucks, suibsequently
went on sale for about $6, and packs of 3" cutoff
wheels 25/$5.99. I have used the cutoffs with a 3/8"
arbor in a die grinder but it's a little awkward with
the long snout and the omnidirectional spray of
sparks. The purpose cutoff tool has a shroud.
Harbor Freight for under ten bucks, suibsequently
went on sale for about $6, and packs of 3" cutoff
wheels 25/$5.99. I have used the cutoffs with a 3/8"
arbor in a die grinder but it's a little awkward with
the long snout and the omnidirectional spray of
sparks. The purpose cutoff tool has a shroud.
For long cuts you might want to buy the cheapest
possible circular saw that comes with a metal blade
guard, and a 7" metal cutting abrasive blade. That
saw will not have a very happy life, but I have a
crappy old plastic Black and Decker garage sale one
that's still hanging on doing the dirty work while
the shiny new one gets to chew soft pine.
possible circular saw that comes with a metal blade
guard, and a 7" metal cutting abrasive blade. That
saw will not have a very happy life, but I have a
crappy old plastic Black and Decker garage sale one
that's still hanging on doing the dirty work while
the shiny new one gets to chew soft pine.
http://www.metaldevil.com/Movies/Stainless.wmv
here’s more:
http://www.metaldevil.com/seeing.html
Originally Posted by eschoendorff
When buying cutoff wheels, alot of guys really dig the Russian-made cutoffs at Harbor Freight. Just FYI...
#12
Originally Posted by Silverback
#13
Originally Posted by Xtreme402
I've got a Dewalt 4 1/2" Grinder that I use for a cut off wheel all the time. Just buy the correct wheels for it and you can cut mostly anything. I don't see why the Black and Decker wouldn't be the same.
that is the one i use too and it works great. you can get them for like 60 or 70 bucks.
#14
Heh, exhaust pipe right in to the back of the guys head…
And people believe everything they see in advertising… my guess is that they just put a piece of exhaust pipe under whatever car they had convenient and took a picture
And people believe everything they see in advertising… my guess is that they just put a piece of exhaust pipe under whatever car they had convenient and took a picture
#15
I have a Dewalt like that it is Great!! Use thin blades but you can't push hard. Let the grinder do all of the work. if you push hard, you may explode the blade. use good gloves all the time and safty sheild. This can be dangurs. It can cut through a padlock in a few seconds.