Billiumss

iTrader: (11)

In my quest to find out more info on 2 pole car lifts, I got to thinking about the garage floor itself.

Most home garage floors have a slight slope to it, about 3-4 inches over a run of 20-25 feet.

Would this affect the safety of the lift when the car is up in the air or throw the balance off some?

Anyone ever run into this or even think about this before?

Bill

Camaroholic

iTrader: (1)

Yes. The guy who installed mine used some thin metal shims between the concrete and the lift base to level it. He just used a bubble level, didn't take much effort at all. They looked a lot like thin wide body shims for a 3/4" bolt.

Billiumss

iTrader: (11)

Could you post a few pics of yours in your garage?

xfactor_pitbulls

iTrader: (16)

As long as your installer can build plump and square, it will not matter. I dont know how much I would trust a water level for something like that though. More like a laser level or 6' box level.

Camaroholic

iTrader: (1)

I'll see if I can get some pics tonight, but they looked a lot like these:

http://www.reliabilitydirectstore.com/Shim-s/71.htm

He set the lift post up, drilled the holes in the floor, inserted the anchors, and then used the level against the post, and then pushed on the post and inserted shims between the base and the concrete until the bubble leveled out.

I don't think it needs to be taken to the 'extreme' of accuracy (laser and whatnot ). The arms are going to flex just a little, and most cars don't sit exactly level either. I've not had one bit of problem... ever... since this guy installed it. And it's had a car on it more often than not since I got it. I do periodically check the tightness of the anchor nuts, and have retightened a couple of them.

xfactor_pitbulls

iTrader: (16)

Maybe you are trying to say box level, but I took it as a water level. Which is a clear hose that you have a 2 or bubbles in. I build stuff for a living bro, anytime I can break out the plumb/level laser it comes out. Oh and we are talking about a lift that is red headed into 6" concrete or less. Depending on the size of the base plate, PLUMB is very important.

Camaroholic

iTrader: (1)

I am talking about a bubble / water level on a 3' stick. Yep. And we'll agree to disagree. I think it's fine with a bubble level. After all, plenty of things got built before laser levels came out... and are still standing. If he has one, great. Whip it out. But if not, I don't see it as a big reason to go buy one. I think the integrity of the concrete is a much greater concern than if a bubble is a hair of a degree out of whack. Putting one of these things up is not rocket science.

xfactor_pitbulls

iTrader: (16)

Jackass, a "water level" is a clear hose, a box level is a level that is built into a "stick", as you put it. Can tell you havent built much. And no I didnt say a laser is mandatory, it is however nice to shoot a benchmark.

Camaroholic

iTrader: (1)

Ahh, gotcha. I ain't all that up on them thar construction terms. You're right, I haven't done much construction type stuff.

mrdragster1970

I've helped on 5 and we had to use shims on all of them. We got tin from my buddy that owns a heating company. Cheap & easy to trim. I would check it again a week later to see if anything settled or moved. Good luck, lifts are awesome.

Firechikn

iTrader: (15)

4' level here, installed myself. It doesn't need to be exact. 3/4x 6" anchors and epoxy. Metal buildings don't even use 3/4" anchors. You couldn't push it over with a truck.JMO.

Specialized

iTrader: (15)

Damn, get defensive much girls?


Anyways, I saw a shop once where they had their lift dead at the top of a 3* (guesstimate) slope. The guys in the shop would do oil changes onto the painted floor, and there was an oil catch basin at the bottom of the slope that they said they pumped out every week. I wonder where antifreeze and gear oil and tranny fluid and power steering fluid and all the other fun fluids which come out of cars went too


Anyways, I dont think it needs to be perfectly at a straight up 90* mark. It IS going to flex, and that's okay.

antz01ta

iTrader: (3)

when i installed my lift i ran into the same problem. i have a trench drain in the center of the garage that the floor slopes to. what i did was get a piece of 3/8" steel plate and cut it out on my CNC plasma cutter to match the footprint of the lift base. using the pieces of steel as a template i drilled the holes in the floor for the anchors. once the epoxy in anchors were set i got non shrink grout and set the plates over the anchors onto the grount and leveled them up. once the grout set the next day i just set the lift directly on the steel plates and bolted her down. no shims involved and it sits perfectly straight.