Ok, tried using a Napa 3 jaw inside puller and its a PITA. Even modified the jaws to seat better. What kind of puller do you use and pics or links are more than appreciated. Have a few cam installs coming up...soon.

 

The NAPA one is junk, its too tiny. I busted off the head on the screw when trying to use one of those. I bought my universal 3-jaw puller at Sears, I think it was around $25? I forget, its been awhile. It has served its purpose well though.

Another tip, find a bolt that will slip into the crank bolt hole loosely, but have the head still exposed. I use that head on the bolt to put the sharp part of my puller screw on. Works great.

Tony

 

Thanks Tony, might have to check that one out. The one we just used, well, as said it is a POS. Used the old crank bolt for the centering, drilled a started hole in the face of the head. Resulted in crushing the centering pin on the pullers bolt! Grinded the feet and they too were POS. All around bad experience.
I seen a post somewhere in here when looking thru the cam install pics of a nice, anodized maybe, puller. Looks like it worked very well. But will check the sears one.

 

Another nod for the 6" 3-jaw Sears puller... It's worked perfectly for all stock pulleys I've removed.. For the ASP, I use a big 2-jaw also from Sears...

 

Pep Boys sells a good puller. I've used it countless times with no problems. I think it was a 7". Was about $30.

 

Wish they had a Pep Boys here Sears here we come. Got to start getting tools lined up for the future mods, and friends mods. Thanks guys!

 

Check out this post https://ls1tech.com/threads/showflat...mp;Search=true

 

Holy smokes, thats why that thing was such a PITA, we tried pulling the outside of the inner portion, not the inside of inner portion. F***. That was a good 2hours. Bet next time its done in less than 5hrs for cam/springs/pulley swap!

 

Glad to hear that; that's the one I just bought for my upcoming cam swap.

 

So whats the best way to keep the crank from turning?? :

 

Check this thread out. It's just a little further down the page.

<a href="https://ls1tech.com/threads/showflat.php?Cat=&amp;Board=tools&amp;Number=57541 9&amp;page=0&amp;view=collapsed&amp;sb=5&amp;o=14& amp;fpart=1" target="_blank"><font color="red">Flexplate locking tool<!--color--></font></a>

I just used a BIG(thick) screwdriver in the flexplate on my car. On the truck I removed the little metal inspection cover on the bellhousing and jammed a 3/8" drive extension up in there. That was a PITA though since it kept falling out.

John

 

Try this one... I haven't personally used one, but it looks like it would be the best choice...

Damper puller tool

 

That puller looks like it would be easier to use than the Sears puller. The only thing that scares me is that probe looking thing, Almost looks like it would snap off.

The Sears 3 jaw puller works good but, is kinda rediculous to setup initially.

 

George, thats exactly what I have for stock crank pulleys. Although I think I paid $20 more than that price. I have used mine on LT1's also to pull the pulley itself off.

 

well, i forgot what name brand it was but we were tryin to get the stock pully ogg with a 3 jaw, he was tightining the 3 jaw, it broke off where u tighten it dwon and hit his lip and had to go get stitches!! i felt so bad! but i rented a tool from oreillys and it worked
*p.s. make sure it says "made in usa!!" the one that broke didnt!!

 

Just finished a pulley swap using the Pep Boys puller, it worked great! I did face and center-drill the crank bolt on my lathe though, I think that helps. When I was at Pep boys, I notice they had two pullers the same size, but one was three times the price of the other. So I bought the expensive one thinking it was the one made in the US. When I got home I noticed it was made it Taiwan also! Worked fine though.