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Need TIG welding help/advice

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Old 06-23-2008, 01:34 PM
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Originally Posted by WS6HUMMER
Thanks! I appreciate you pointing me in the right direction, I think 2500 is a good price.
No problem, although I just checked, their price just went up with millers price increase. It's now 2800..
Old 06-23-2008, 01:42 PM
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Originally Posted by BADD SS
No problem, although I just checked, their price just went up with millers price increase. It's now 2800..
LOL! Thats the way things seem to work for me.
Old 06-23-2008, 07:36 PM
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The price increases suck !!! I see some great deals , just don't need them . If you do upgrade I might be able to help you out with a few surplus parts we have like a cooler . Ebay and Craigslist are great resources . I don't care what anyone says , having an experienced tig weldor teach you will help you pick up on it quickly , it isn't that hard .
Old 07-08-2008, 09:51 PM
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Originally Posted by BADD SS
Seriously, check craiglist and ebay... There on there ALL the time.

Hell, a brand new Dynasty 200DX, can be had for 2500 brand new, with more functions than you can shake a stick at, and in a small, portable package.

Just need to know where to buy stuff, if you go to your local welding supply, expect to pay $3300 or so for the same machine. I dont remember, I think IOS Indiana oxygen has the Dynasty for $2595 or something...

Budget... Ebay,craigslist
No doubt, craigslist is where its at. I just picked up an OTC Daihen 300P for $400!
Old 07-09-2008, 08:29 AM
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Originally Posted by BADD SS
What is your experiance? I think thats plain incorrect unless your talking about specialty alloy's. But with them you usually need a vacuum chamber anyway, as a slight draft will ruin the weld. Does not happen with mild steel, alum, or even stainless. (even though stainless should technically be back purged to prevent sugar forming, out in the feild I've never had an issue.

If slight manipulations of the pedal were incorrect procedure, high end tig machines would never have a pulsing option... While it's true that the dip will control the heat, 99% of the time, most weldors will use the pedal to help the process, Im not talking abolut on off on, but a 5-10 amp (if that) change.

FWIW, I have never ever heard of a test failing do to using the pedal to control heat.
I don't know what his experience is, but my experience with him is that he is the classic "know it all" welder

Originally Posted by WS6HUMMER
Working with an SA 250 is hard lol! If I could step on a pedal and get more amperage right as I dip the filler rod I think I could make a decent looking bead.

I have heard 2K plus is what I should look at paying for a basic AC/DC 220 machine with high frequency capabilities. 1100 is a steal IMO.
Miller is coming out with a new machine called the Diversion 165. It got kind of slammed on the Miller forum for how it's being marketed(comes with a book "tig welding for dummies",ect.), but I think it fills a nice void for hobby welders that want to step up a bit. List is around 1600, but it sounds like it will retail for about 1300-1400. And unlike the Dynasty, all you need to get is the bottle. There are definitely drawbacks, but I'm guessing a lot of guys on this board would dig it.

http://www.millerwelds.com/diversionpc/details/

-Josh
Old 07-09-2008, 08:40 AM
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lol. TIG Welding for Dummies. I agree, it's a bit of an insult to drop $1300+ on a welder and get a book "for dummies" with it.
Old 07-09-2008, 09:17 AM
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I agree it's a nice machine for those who would otherwise buy an imported no namer for $1000.

BTW, whats your name on the Miller Forums, Ive been over there for a while, my S/N is Badd00SS over there... It's a great forum, you learn alot over there. Shame some of the really knowledgeable guys havent posted since the board change...

Originally Posted by jdustu
I don't know what his experience is, but my experience with him is that he is the classic "know it all" welder



Miller is coming out with a new machine called the Diversion 165. It got kind of slammed on the Miller forum for how it's being marketed(comes with a book "tig welding for dummies",ect.), but I think it fills a nice void for hobby welders that want to step up a bit. List is around 1600, but it sounds like it will retail for about 1300-1400. And unlike the Dynasty, all you need to get is the bottle. There are definitely drawbacks, but I'm guessing a lot of guys on this board would dig it.

http://www.millerwelds.com/diversionpc/details/

-Josh
Old 07-09-2008, 09:49 AM
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Originally Posted by jdustu
I don't know what his experience is, but my experience with him is that he is the classic "know it all" welder



Miller is coming out with a new machine called the Diversion 165. It got kind of slammed on the Miller forum for how it's being marketed(comes with a book "tig welding for dummies",ect.), but I think it fills a nice void for hobby welders that want to step up a bit. List is around 1600, but it sounds like it will retail for about 1300-1400. And unlike the Dynasty, all you need to get is the bottle. There are definitely drawbacks, but I'm guessing a lot of guys on this board would dig it.

http://www.millerwelds.com/diversionpc/details/

-Josh
Very nice machine, when can I buy one?!! Will I still need helium & argon to sheild or can I use 100% argon to weld alluminum with this machine?
Old 07-09-2008, 10:06 AM
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Originally Posted by WS6HUMMER
Very nice machine, when can I buy one?!! Will I still need helium & argon to sheild or can I use 100% argon to weld alluminum with this machine?
For most normal welds with tig, you should only need straight argon. Argon/Helium is for extra penetration really. IE, if you have a small machine and want to weld something thicker then you should. Some people like the mix a little better, but I find straight argon to be a little smoother. It's also cheaper...
Old 07-09-2008, 10:29 AM
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Originally Posted by BADD SS
For most normal welds with tig, you should only need straight argon. Argon/Helium is for extra penetration really. IE, if you have a small machine and want to weld something thicker then you should. Some people like the mix a little better, but I find straight argon to be a little smoother. It's also cheaper...
Thanks, right now I'm using a Lincoln SA-250, its a DC only welder and I know to weld alluminum with it I must use a heilum/argon mix. An ac welder with some way to adjust the current while welding will be so nice!
Old 07-09-2008, 12:13 PM
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Originally Posted by WS6HUMMER
Thanks, right now I'm using a Lincoln SA-250, its a DC only welder and I know to weld alluminum with it I must use a heilum/argon mix. An ac welder with some way to adjust the current while welding will be so nice!
LOL, thought you were welding 1/16 steel with it....

Your going to have a really tough time welding aluminum with DC, helium or not.

Might want to hold off till you can get the diversion or some other...

I have heard of the DC Tig welding of aluminum, but have never seen any good resuts and have not tried it myself...
Old 07-09-2008, 12:27 PM
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Originally Posted by BADD SS
LOL, thought you were welding 1/16 steel with it....

Your going to have a really tough time welding aluminum with DC, helium or not.

Might want to hold off till you can get the diversion or some other...

I have heard of the DC Tig welding of aluminum, but have never seen any good resuts and have not tried it myself...
Yeah I havent tried it but have just heard it can be done but is very difficult. That's why I'd really like to get that welder, dont need to lease a new bottle with different gas and I'm sure with an optional foot pedal I could make some pretty decent looking welds.
Old 07-09-2008, 01:25 PM
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Originally Posted by BADD SS
I agree it's a nice machine for those who would otherwise buy an imported no namer for $1000.

BTW, whats your name on the Miller Forums, Ive been over there for a while, my S/N is Badd00SS over there... It's a great forum, you learn alot over there. Shame some of the really knowledgeable guys havent posted since the board change...
It's the same, jdustu. I think I talked to you about my camaro at one point on there last year. I don't use the board a heckuva lot, but it does seem like there are lot more "beginner" threads since the change. I do like the change, though, the forums are integrated now.
Old 07-09-2008, 01:27 PM
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Originally Posted by WS6HUMMER
Very nice machine, when can I buy one?!! Will I still need helium & argon to sheild or can I use 100% argon to weld alluminum with this machine?
If you have a local welding store/Miller dealer, talk to them. Otherwise I'm sure they'll start popping up on ebay soon through the welding supply warehouses.
Old 07-09-2008, 01:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Camaroholic
lol. TIG Welding for Dummies. I agree, it's a bit of an insult to drop $1300+ on a welder and get a book "for dummies" with it.
The professional welders weren't real happy about the ac/dc switch:
Select Your Metal We've labeled the metal types so you don't have to memorize the difference between AC and DC. Again, all you do is flip the switch.
The thought is that if you can't tell the difference, you shouldn't be tig welding anyways. Someone will end up trying to weld something critical that's above their grasp. I say you've got to start somewhere, although I don't completely disagree with the sentiment.
Old 07-19-2008, 12:02 PM
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Wow I was getting a kick out of reading all these posts about welding that sheet metal. Where do you all weld? I was an x-ray tig welder for Eaton Aeroquip for over a year, and we used pulse tig on almost everything. The welds never shot bad and they definately wouldn't let you pulse something on a aeroplane weld if it was going to crack. I have welded probably just about all the exotics there is. Stainless, aluminum, inconel, and titanium. You do not need a vacuum chamber to weld these metals, but a back purge is a MUST on all groove welds with these metals. Now I weld pipe in nuclear power plants, and all we use is scratch start tig rigs. I dont have any problem scratch starting. I dont know how exactly I would weld that sheet metal without a foot pedal, but with a few minutes im sure I could get a good looking bead out of it. I dont pay attention to that whole 1 amp per .001 thickness. I just set the machine and run a little bit. I do usually run hotter than what most of my coworkers do though. When you weld stuff that is x-ray inspected the theory i was taught is "If you run hot as hell it will always shoot"

My advice is dont worry about looks first. Worry about proper joint penetration, looks come with practice. It way to easy to get a great looking weld without proper penetration. All that will cause is a broken weld joint. Good luck with practicing, but I would get a rig with a remote to weld that thin stuff. I would recommend the econotig for the hobby welder. I think its only about 12-1300 and will weld ac and dc.
Old 07-19-2008, 07:39 PM
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Originally Posted by 99345hp
Wow I was getting a kick out of reading all these posts about welding that sheet metal. Where do you all weld? I was an x-ray tig welder for Eaton Aeroquip for over a year, and we used pulse tig on almost everything. The welds never shot bad and they definately wouldn't let you pulse something on a aeroplane weld if it was going to crack. I have welded probably just about all the exotics there is. Stainless, aluminum, inconel, and titanium. You do not need a vacuum chamber to weld these metals, but a back purge is a MUST on all groove welds with these metals. Now I weld pipe in nuclear power plants, and all we use is scratch start tig rigs. I dont have any problem scratch starting. I dont know how exactly I would weld that sheet metal without a foot pedal, but with a few minutes im sure I could get a good looking bead out of it. I dont pay attention to that whole 1 amp per .001 thickness. I just set the machine and run a little bit. I do usually run hotter than what most of my coworkers do though. When you weld stuff that is x-ray inspected the theory i was taught is "If you run hot as hell it will always shoot"

My advice is dont worry about looks first. Worry about proper joint penetration, looks come with practice. It way to easy to get a great looking weld without proper penetration. All that will cause is a broken weld joint. Good luck with practicing, but I would get a rig with a remote to weld that thin stuff. I would recommend the econotig for the hobby welder. I think its only about 12-1300 and will weld ac and dc.
ive worked some nukes too. biiiiiiiiiigggg difference from hard money jobs. they supply you with everything. hate the 6- 12`s though!
Old 07-20-2008, 09:47 AM
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Yeah there definately is a HUGE difference. Yeah I agree with the 6-12's, but thats when you bring home the cash son. Which nukes did you work? I work the duke energy nukes right now for a vendor (DZ Atlantic).
Old 07-20-2008, 12:27 PM
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surry, north anna, beaver valley, salem, fort calhoun, turkey point, south port, and comanche peak. i try to hit the sgr`s. but i do refuels too. when i get some stuff paid off im eventually going to try to get on at my home plant.(surry)
Old 07-20-2008, 02:15 PM
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I think DZ Atlantic does most of those plants too. I havn't traveled around to any other plants other than Oconee and McGuire, because they have kept me busy year round. I guess when your good they keep you around. LOL. Im not the best, but I can hold my own.


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