WS6HUMMER

iTrader: (19)

I keep getting the filler rod stuck in the pool, cant figure out what I'm doing wrong.

I'm using a 200A air cooled Weldcraft torch, DCEN, 3/32 collette & tungsten (2% red band), got the machine set on 100A , #8 cup, & my gas (argon) set to 20. What am I doing wrong? I am holding the filler rod 15* like I read that I'm supposed to but I can get the rod dipped in and out about 3/4 times and it always ends up getting stuck in the pool. I cant figure it out.

BADD SS

iTrader: (4)

What are you welding? usually it means too little heat, but if your not experianced it could be technique. It's hard to diagnose for me, as I've been doing it so long, I dont even think about it anymore, it's like writing.

What is the base metal, thickness, and position of welding.... we'll go from there.

WS6HUMMER

iTrader: (19)

Thanks for the response. I'm just laying stringers on some 1/16 on a flat workbench to get the hang of it before I start my truck manifold setup. I can mig pretty decent but TIG is COMPLETELY different.

BADD SS

iTrader: (4)

Well, your a little High for 1/16 steel. General rule is 1 amp per .001 thousanths thick. So 1/16= about 62 thousanths. 62 x 1 = 62 amps. But I generally set the coarse range to 85 or so and the fine to like 45%. This way I can add more heat or less with the peddle. Basically, you want the molten puddle to form, then you dip and move forward. Dont try to melt the rod with the torch, let the puddle melt the rod. Now, you can use the peddle to add more heat, let the puddle form, melt the rod and let off the peddle, to solidify the puddle just a tad as you move forward. Basically it's all about practice. Let the puddle melt the rod, and go from there...

WS6HUMMER

iTrader: (19)

Thanks, letting the puddle melt the rod and not the arc is helpful, I'll give it a try tomorrow. But I dont have a pedal

mrdragster1970

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Good advice, I did the same thing when I was learning. It was all my fault. It was bad technique, hand-hand-foot coordination.

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JDMPalace

iTrader: (1)

How about Tigging Aluminum, any technique for that ?? I can do steel pretty decent but I can't do Aluminum, no matter howmuch I brush the damn thing.

BADD SS

iTrader: (4)

What kind of machine are you running? Are you scratch starting with an arc-welder with a tig torch and gas valve? Almost all tig machines have a peddle. If your machine has a 14pin plug in, it would make your life a lot easier to use a peddle.

So, what machine are you using?

BADD SS

iTrader: (4)

What kind of problems do you encounter? Is it cosmetic, or is it that there is lack of fusion. Or is it like black soot.... Or just trouble forming a bead..

WS6HUMMER

iTrader: (19)

Yes I'm scratch starting,I'm using a Lincoln diesel generator/stick welder. It looks 100 years old but runs pretty good still.

BADD SS

iTrader: (4)

LOL, thats probably one of the reasons it's difficult. Is it an SA-200? I have wanted one for a while... I just have a little Miller Bobcat. if it is an SA-200 its going to be difficult tig welding with, at least easily. If you have a decent amount of welding, or may have in the future, you might be better off getting a dedicated tig machine. Scratch starting off an old generator is difficult for experienced tig weldors, for a begginer it will be like pulling teeth. You would be better off with a used syncrowave or such, anything that has high freq, coarse and fine adjustments and a foot peddle.

This is what I use, a bit much for what you need i think, but just to show you this is an old machine and has hardly anything the new dynasty's have, yet welds great, it was $1100, with the bottle, nd water cooler off craigslist.

WS6HUMMER

iTrader: (19)

Yeah your machine is like a Cadillac compared to my welder. Its a SA-250, I have no problems scratch starting now after burning up 2 electrodes lol!
Here's some pics of the old machine I'm using.

BADD SS

iTrader: (4)

Well, if you plan on using the sa-250, my best advice is practice alot with different heat settings, and learn some torch manipulation. Do you have an Oxy/acetylene welding torch? The best way to learn tig, is with an oxy/acetylene torch, imo. Instead of the arc, you use the flame learn how manipulation, angles, and correct timing produce a good bead, with oxy/acetylene, you use distance to work like a peddle ramp up/down. Since ya dont have that peddle though, it would be a good way to show you how heat and timing affect bead appearance and your sticking problems. Once you realise how much heat to add, how long to dip, etc. tig should be easy.

WS6HUMMER

iTrader: (19)

Thanks! I just tried it with an extra 10 amps and it made a BIG difference, I can see with some time and experience I could get the hang of it and make some decent looking beads. No perfect stack of dimes though, lol.

Silverback

Although for the most part correct, sawing on the pedal like that to get the weld bead to do what you want it to do is frowned upon for a high quality weld (there are some places that would automatically throw that weld away) because changing temperature like that could promote future cracking. It is the quickest/easiest way to get what most people expect a TIG weld to look like. What some do as a compromise is to sort of “rock” back and forth, you get the puddle going with the torch, and then rock both hands back, so the torch goes back to the start of the puddle and the filler wire dips into the puddle, and then rock forward again to move the puddle forward. The really talented people out there can pretty much adjust their speed and heat so that the pedal stays constant during the majority of the weld, and the speed stays constant (no stop starting or moving back and forth) and they control heat/get the puddle to freeze that little bit by having it very close and dipping the rod to cool the puddle a little.

BADD SS

iTrader: (4)

What is your experiance? I think thats plain incorrect unless your talking about specialty alloy's. But with them you usually need a vacuum chamber anyway, as a slight draft will ruin the weld. Does not happen with mild steel, alum, or even stainless. (even though stainless should technically be back purged to prevent sugar forming, out in the feild I've never had an issue.

If slight manipulations of the pedal were incorrect procedure, high end tig machines would never have a pulsing option... While it's true that the dip will control the heat, 99% of the time, most weldors will use the pedal to help the process, Im not talking abolut on off on, but a 5-10 amp (if that) change.

FWIW, I have never ever heard of a test failing do to using the pedal to control heat.

v8pwr

iTrader: (19)

I'm with BADSS on this one , pretty much every weldor I work with "uses" the pedal . This is also why pulsing is an integral part of any good tig setup . Using an old SA 250 to learn to tig would probably be pretty difficult , I've been lucky enough to work @ places that had good equipment . I have to say $1100 for that setup was a steal .

WS6HUMMER

iTrader: (19)

Working with an SA 250 is hard lol! If I could step on a pedal and get more amperage right as I dip the filler rod I think I could make a decent looking bead.

I have heard 2K plus is what I should look at paying for a basic AC/DC 220 machine with high frequency capabilities. 1100 is a steal IMO.

BADD SS

iTrader: (4)

Seriously, check craiglist and ebay... There on there ALL the time.

Hell, a brand new Dynasty 200DX, can be had for 2500 brand new, with more functions than you can shake a stick at, and in a small, portable package.

Just need to know where to buy stuff, if you go to your local welding supply, expect to pay $3300 or so for the same machine. I dont remember, I think IOS Indiana oxygen has the Dynasty for $2595 or something...

Budget... Ebay,craigslist

WS6HUMMER

iTrader: (19)

Thanks! I appreciate you pointing me in the right direction, I think 2500 is a good price.