Need TIG welding help/advice
07-20-2008, 10:19 PM
#44
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south port(wilmington), north anna(louisa, va), surry(surry,va), sharron harris( nc) are all close to you. i dont know what contractor has the nc plants, but dz atlantic has north anna and surry. north anna has an outage in sept. pre outage will start usaully about a month or so before that. ROADTECHS.COM is a good site to get info from about nuke outages. it gives info on dates, length, and contractors. are you a pipe or structual welder?
07-21-2008, 12:04 AM
#45
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There is a plant right there near Charlotte. That is were I am working right now. It is McGuire in Huntersville, NC. The contractor is DZ Atlantic. You will have to be able to pass a two coupon pipe test. You definately cannot just be a tig welder. Both coupons are 2.5 inch schedule 160 pipe. #1 is ER70S root and filler to cap. #2 is ER70S root and hot pass, with a E7018 balance. For those of you that are not familiar that is a tig all the way out pipe and a tig root and hot pass and the rest of it stick. There are many other tests, but to get in the door at Duke you have to be able to pass those tests. Look DZ Atlantic up on the internet and give them a call. Let them know you are a welder and they will definately find you work if you can pass a weld test.
07-21-2008, 03:51 PM
#46
There is a plant right there near Charlotte. That is were I am working right now. It is McGuire in Huntersville, NC. The contractor is DZ Atlantic. You will have to be able to pass a two coupon pipe test. You definately cannot just be a tig welder. Both coupons are 2.5 inch schedule 160 pipe. #1 is ER70S root and filler to cap. #2 is ER70S root and hot pass, with a E7018 balance. For those of you that are not familiar that is a tig all the way out pipe and a tig root and hot pass and the rest of it stick. There are many other tests, but to get in the door at Duke you have to be able to pass those tests. Look DZ Atlantic up on the internet and give them a call. Let them know you are a welder and they will definately find you work if you can pass a weld test.
07-21-2008, 07:24 PM
#47
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im not ashamed of what I make by any means. I have already grossed over 50k this year. If you call DZ Atlantic they have a school that is for people that can already weld and just need a little instruction to pass the test.
07-26-2008, 01:56 PM
#48
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I found this today: http://www.mjbwelding.com/pics/Diversion_165_Flyer.pdf
$1394 is their price.
And BR Welding Supplies has it listed, but no price yet: http://www.brweldingsupplies.com/pro...roduct_id=1422
-Josh
$1394 is their price.
And BR Welding Supplies has it listed, but no price yet: http://www.brweldingsupplies.com/pro...roduct_id=1422
-Josh
07-26-2008, 02:06 PM
#49
I found this today: http://www.mjbwelding.com/pics/Diversion_165_Flyer.pdf
$1394 is their price.
And BR Welding Supplies has it listed, but no price yet: http://www.brweldingsupplies.com/pro...roduct_id=1422
-Josh
$1394 is their price.
And BR Welding Supplies has it listed, but no price yet: http://www.brweldingsupplies.com/pro...roduct_id=1422
-Josh
08-01-2008, 02:22 PM
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You want to burn through. If you arn't burning through 1/16th plate then you are welding way too cold. It only takes a wire brush to get rid of the scale on the backside. If it is stainless then you need to run an argon purge on the backside of the weld.
08-01-2008, 08:20 PM
#52
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I was kind of in a hurry with that last post. When groove welding two pieces of metal together, you want the back side of the weld to look like it was welded also. You want both sides of the joint to break down and become part of the weld. If you dont have burn through, the opposite side of the joint could cause the weld to crack and break. If you move up to thicker material, you will have to bevel the pieces to be able to melt though without having to use too much heat. Welding and getting proper penetration takes practice, but once you get the hang of it, you will be able to watch what is going on in the puddle and be able to tell if it is breaking down the opposite side.
08-01-2008, 11:51 PM
#53
I was kind of in a hurry with that last post. When groove welding two pieces of metal together, you want the back side of the weld to look like it was welded also. You want both sides of the joint to break down and become part of the weld. If you dont have burn through, the opposite side of the joint could cause the weld to crack and break. If you move up to thicker material, you will have to bevel the pieces to be able to melt though without having to use too much heat. Welding and getting proper penetration takes practice, but once you get the hang of it, you will be able to watch what is going on in the puddle and be able to tell if it is breaking down the opposite side.
