99 Camaro SS - 57k - 408 stroker/A3/12 bolt - in Kansas
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99 Camaro SS - 57k - 408 stroker/A3/12 bolt - in Kansas
Year: 1999
Make: Chevrolet
Model: Camaro
Price: $15000
Mileage: 57454
Private or Dealer Listing: Private Listing
Location (State): KS
Color: Red
Transmission: Automatic
Drivetrain: Rear Wheel Drive
LS Engine?: Car has LS engine
The car:
1999 SLP Camaro SS w/ 57k miles
100% factory paint, clean carfax
Born as a LS1 engine/6 speed manual transmission
Bright Red with Tan leather interior
Power windows, power locks, power mirrors, CD player, power seat
T-tops
Absolutely 0 dents/dings, 3-4 very small rock chips that have been touched up.
Appearance mods:
Black Halo headlights
Black Manta stripe on hood and spoiler (vinyl)
55w 8000k HID low-beams, 35w 6000k HID fog lights (white with blue tint)
Black CAMARO inserts in rear panel
Factory SS ZR1 wheels painted black w/ brand new front BFG tires ($250/ea) and half worn Nitto drag radials on the rear
20% tint all around
Engine:
Here is the basic list, I have a complete list for those seriously interested (too long to put on this ad)
Texas Speed 408 cubic inch stroker short block
Diamond Forged pistons, Eagle Crankshaft, Scat H-beam rods
Texas Speed Stage 2.5 LS6 heads
Texas Speed MS4 camshaft
F.A.S.T. 90MM intake and throttle mody
85MM MAF
F.A.S.T. 36lb injectors
This engine cost just over $10,000 to be built, installed, and dyno tuned at Texas Speed. The car was shipped there in an enclosed car trailer, built/installed/tuned, and shipped back in an enclosed car trailer. The tuning was touched up by Alan at GBSB. The engine has less than 10,000 miles on it.
Drivetrain:
TH350 transmission with Reverse Manual Valve-body and Trans-Brake
Vigilante 4500 stall converter
Moser 12-bolt rear end with 4.10 gears
Denny's Nitrous Driveshaft
B&M ratchet shifter with trans-brake button
There is well over $2000 in this transmission setup, and the rear end cost right at $2500 (ABS/TCS still functioning). Transmission has less than 1000 miles on it, and rear end has roughly 5000 miles on it.
Suspension:
UMI Chromemoly torque arm
UMI welded, boxed Subframe connectors
UMI transmission crossmember
UMI adjustable panhard bar
UMI weld-in lower control arm relocations
QA1 adjustable front shocks, Competition Engineering adjustable rear shocks
Driveshaft Safety loop
Exhaust:
Flowtech long tube headers w/o emissions
Offroad-Y pipe
Magnaflow catback
DMH electric cutout. The car is very quiet through the Magnaflow exhaust, and at the touch of a button it sounds like open headers. Great for being quiet through neighborhoods and being loud when you're out playing.
MISC:
Shorty Antenna
Raptor shift light in defrost vent
The Bad:
-Front leather seats are getting worn
-Rear end has a slight whine in it, I will rebuild it with new gears and bearings before the car is sold or adjust the price accordingly.
-AC needs recharged, because it hasn't been since the engine was installed
This car has been on the track once in its life. I made 5-6 passes with a 3000+ ft DA. 4 were 11.5s while spinning. I hooked the car once, lifting both front tires and let off at the 1000' mark and coasted through to an 11.3. This car is only legal to an 11.50 because it does not have a roll bar. With a rollbar and the required safety equipment to make it legal, and a little bit of practice on the track, this is a 10 second car. The car was built with the intention of spraying a 250 shot of nitrous, but I haven't had the time to buy/install a kit. Spraying the car would easily put it in the bottom 10 second range. It is a forged engine and with proper tuning a big shot of spray would be very beneficial and safe.
Reasons I'm selling:
I really just have a couple small reasons of why it would be beneficial to me to sell this car, but I have no absolute need to. I'm moving in to a bigger house next month and wouldn't mind having some extra money for new furniture and etc. I'm also looking in to buying a nice full size truck for towing some of my projects. I bought the car with the intentions of stripping it in to a race car but I really hate to do it to such a nice, low mileage, original paint car. And I didn't want to put a cage in this street car. I'll probably find stripped high mileage roller and build a true race car. On top if it all, I currently have 6 vehicles in my possession, and I'm trying to consolidate everything
It would take double the money to replicate this car and I absolutely do not need to sell it. If I don't get what I'm asking, it can keep resting in the garage. However if someone does buy the car, it will get a complete professional detail and be ready to go. There will be absolutely no test drives untill I have cash in hand. I WILL NOT TAKE A PERSONAL CHECK. I'm not going to play that game again.
I'm not looking for trades unless it's really something special, not looking for quads, dirt bikes, bikes, etc.
The polished wheels in the pictures are not included. They MAY be included for extra. The car will come with black GM ZR1 wheels.
PICS:
CURRENT PICS, TAKEN TODAY 4/23/10
It's a little dirty in the pics because it's just been sitting for quite a while, I'll clean it up once it stays nice outside and take more.
Videos:
Against a 402ci A4 Trans Am, back when my car was an M6
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w6NclT0I2h8
Against a 525whp Kenne Bell GT (camera car), my car as it sits currently
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IsyQUP0cffs
Please note in the first pics the car looks like a 4x4. It has since been lowered (QA1s in the front, heater hose mod in the rear) and sits like the last pic shows. It will also come on BLACK ZR1s. I will post pictures whenever we get some sunny days without 5,000mph winds.
Feel free to PM me or email me at any time. I will give my phone number to serious parties. The car is located in Hays, KS, right off of interstate 70.
Last edited by FlashLCD33; 04-15-2010 at 12:19 AM.
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I posted it for sale on local classifieds last night and have 4 emails already today, I REALLY don't want to sell this car locally just because I don't want to have to see it around town.
I'll be buying and installing a new set of gears for it in the next week or two, going with a 3.73 unless somebody buys it and wants something else. If somebody wants it before then, I'll knock off the price of gears/install kit/labor.
EDIT:
At the track, when the car did hook on the transbrake at around 2500 rpm, it went:
1.49 60ft
7.20@95mph 1/8th
11.3 letting off at 1000ft
It was trapping around 120mph on the passes before. Keep in mind our bad DA. This is easily a 10.80@125+ car on a good track.
I'll be buying and installing a new set of gears for it in the next week or two, going with a 3.73 unless somebody buys it and wants something else. If somebody wants it before then, I'll knock off the price of gears/install kit/labor.
EDIT:
At the track, when the car did hook on the transbrake at around 2500 rpm, it went:
1.49 60ft
7.20@95mph 1/8th
11.3 letting off at 1000ft
It was trapping around 120mph on the passes before. Keep in mind our bad DA. This is easily a 10.80@125+ car on a good track.
Last edited by FlashLCD33; 04-15-2010 at 06:09 PM.
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I may take a trade depending on what it is.
I have a friend interested in trading me his 05 crew cab z71, but he owes a ton on it so he's trying to figure out the financing since this cars book value is lower than his. The car only books at 11k on NADA, but obviously there are all of the extras. I'm asking 4k more than book value due to the 20k+ in mods.
I have a friend interested in trading me his 05 crew cab z71, but he owes a ton on it so he's trying to figure out the financing since this cars book value is lower than his. The car only books at 11k on NADA, but obviously there are all of the extras. I'm asking 4k more than book value due to the 20k+ in mods.
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That is a GREAT looking car, but for me to consider it you'd have to add a ton of money to where it's not really fair for you. It's just not quite what I'm looking for.
Thanks for the offer though!
Thanks for the offer though!
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It made 476rwhp/460rwtq when it was a 6spd through full exhaust on a VERY conservative tune. I'm really not sure what TSP was thinking when they did the tune. They had the timing set VERY low, and the knock sensor sensitivity was set to 200% instead of the typical 50% for LS1s. So it was showing a ton of knock retard every time you'd go WOT and pulling even more timing. The tune was adjusted, timing advanced and the knock sensor sensitivity set to where it should be, but there are no dyno runs since it was street tuned. There is absolutely 0 knock retard running 91 octane. I also believe TSPs dyno reads a little lower than most, maybe it's the heat or something. My buddies car was tuned at Speed Inc with just boltons, we cammed the car and had it tuned at TSP and it only showed a 10rwhp gain but obviously it was much stronger. It needs a little idle tuning yet, but I'll have that done the next time the tuner comes through. With the tuning and cutout it would without a doubt be well over 500 if it were still an M6. It would be hard to guess what kind of power it makes on a dyno with the big stall, but it's definitely much quicker as an auto.
It runs STRONG and there is no denying it! In the race against the 525whp stang, we went from a 40 roll where I should have been in 1st but just left it in 2nd (roll racing not good for my auto, good for his manual) and it still put a good walking on him.
It runs STRONG and there is no denying it! In the race against the 525whp stang, we went from a 40 roll where I should have been in 1st but just left it in 2nd (roll racing not good for my auto, good for his manual) and it still put a good walking on him.
Last edited by FlashLCD33; 04-19-2010 at 06:08 PM.
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We could work that out if you're seriously interested, I'm a mechanic by day so doing the labor is not a problem.
The M6/A3 is a big killer for a lot of people. It was originally an M6 car so it can easily be put back to one.
Thanks
The M6/A3 is a big killer for a lot of people. It was originally an M6 car so it can easily be put back to one.
Thanks