FS: LS1/T56 swapped FC Rx7
01-01-2009, 11:02 PM
#1
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FS: LS1/T56 swapped FC Rx7 Tossing around the idea of selling my FC since I really didn't have much time to enjoy it this year and its been sitting since Thanksgiving.
I've put lots of effort into this car over the course of the past couple years and have redone things to my liking and feel I have built a very well rounded reliable car. It has performed to my expectations and met my pre-swap goals. It made 318whp on a dynojet before longtube headers with a correction factor (307whp is more real world). It ran into the 12s on street tires and trapped as high as 113mph. Its performed very well at a few HPDEs at Gingerman Raceway and Autobahn Country Club South course over the summer.
Asking $13,000. I will also entertain even trades, or trades plus cash (my end or your end) for either a AWD sporty sedan or another RWD coupe. Not looking for lowball offers because I don't NEED to sell it.
Summer 07 engine bay. I updated some things over the winter and did a lot of cleaning up of wires and making it look mroe factory.
Dyno.
Video of car road racing - my first even so that's why the car looks slow lol
YouTube - Gingerman Test and Tune
Engine Mods: 1998 5.7L LS1 60k on motor when installed - about 65k now
• LS6 Intake Manifold
• Katech rod bolts
• MSD spark plug wires
• NGK spark plugs
• Speed Inc. solid tensioner
• Texas Speed ported LS6 oil pump
• LS6 valley cover PCV conversion
• Custom CAI w/ K&N air filter
• 1 ¾” BBK Fox Body Mustang Long tube headers (modified with LS1 flange)
• 2.5” true duals, summit h-pipe, magnaflow muffler, SS tips
• Odyssey PC680 lightweight battery
• Corvette FPR
• Wait4Me PCM tune
• Ported stock throttle body
• Granny’s Speed shop LS1 mount kit
• 27.5”x 19” Griffin universal Radiator w/ 16” electric fan, custom mounts, aluminum top plate, & lower undtray
• Summit S.S. flexible lower radiator hose
• Walbro 255lph fuel pump
• No PS, EGR, or AC
• JTR Steamvent
Drivetrain: T-56 6 speed transmission
• Billet 1-2 & 3-4 slider keys
• Steel 3-4 Shift Fork
• Bronze shift fork pads
• LS6 clutch
• Granny’s speed shop trans brace/mount (modified for driver side exhaust passage)
• Granny’s speed shop driveshaft
• Hinson Super Cars Clutch line
• Turbo 2 4.10 LSD rear end and axles w/ redline gear oil
• Wilwood 7/8” clutch master cylinder
• MMR Solid differential mounts
• Energy Suspension transmission mount
• Mazda Competition front differential mount
Suspension, Brakes, & Wheels
• Megan Racing 32-way adjustable coilovers (8kg/6kg)
• Corksport Stainless steel brake lines
• Turbo 2 sway bars
• Prothane total bushing kit
• Racing Beat DTSS eliminators
• Slotted and cross drilled brake rotors
• Turbo 2 brake components (4 piston front calipers and master cylinder) and spindles
• Front and rear strut bars
• Sportmax 17x8 w/ 225/45/17 (front) 17x9 w/ 255/40/17
• Hawk HP+ (f) Hawk HPS (r) with spare stock rotors
• ATE SuperBlue brake fluid
Interior/Exterior
• Scan Gauge II
• F1 Spec Silver Kevlar weave seat with low-mount seat bracket
• Shaved antenna and rear emblem
• GM Arctic White paint - repainted last year (ok paint job but not show winning)
Other details: Chassis was originally an SE with 90k. It was always road raced with 7 quarts of oil for extra safety. No radio or sound system installed but wiring is still there.
I've put lots of effort into this car over the course of the past couple years and have redone things to my liking and feel I have built a very well rounded reliable car. It has performed to my expectations and met my pre-swap goals. It made 318whp on a dynojet before longtube headers with a correction factor (307whp is more real world). It ran into the 12s on street tires and trapped as high as 113mph. Its performed very well at a few HPDEs at Gingerman Raceway and Autobahn Country Club South course over the summer.
Asking $13,000. I will also entertain even trades, or trades plus cash (my end or your end) for either a AWD sporty sedan or another RWD coupe. Not looking for lowball offers because I don't NEED to sell it.
Summer 07 engine bay. I updated some things over the winter and did a lot of cleaning up of wires and making it look mroe factory.
Dyno.
Video of car road racing - my first even so that's why the car looks slow lol
YouTube - Gingerman Test and Tune
Engine Mods: 1998 5.7L LS1 60k on motor when installed - about 65k now
• LS6 Intake Manifold
• Katech rod bolts
• MSD spark plug wires
• NGK spark plugs
• Speed Inc. solid tensioner
• Texas Speed ported LS6 oil pump
• LS6 valley cover PCV conversion
• Custom CAI w/ K&N air filter
• 1 ¾” BBK Fox Body Mustang Long tube headers (modified with LS1 flange)
• 2.5” true duals, summit h-pipe, magnaflow muffler, SS tips
• Odyssey PC680 lightweight battery
• Corvette FPR
• Wait4Me PCM tune
• Ported stock throttle body
• Granny’s Speed shop LS1 mount kit
• 27.5”x 19” Griffin universal Radiator w/ 16” electric fan, custom mounts, aluminum top plate, & lower undtray
• Summit S.S. flexible lower radiator hose
• Walbro 255lph fuel pump
• No PS, EGR, or AC
• JTR Steamvent
Drivetrain: T-56 6 speed transmission
• Billet 1-2 & 3-4 slider keys
• Steel 3-4 Shift Fork
• Bronze shift fork pads
• LS6 clutch
• Granny’s speed shop trans brace/mount (modified for driver side exhaust passage)
• Granny’s speed shop driveshaft
• Hinson Super Cars Clutch line
• Turbo 2 4.10 LSD rear end and axles w/ redline gear oil
• Wilwood 7/8” clutch master cylinder
• MMR Solid differential mounts
• Energy Suspension transmission mount
• Mazda Competition front differential mount
Suspension, Brakes, & Wheels
• Megan Racing 32-way adjustable coilovers (8kg/6kg)
• Corksport Stainless steel brake lines
• Turbo 2 sway bars
• Prothane total bushing kit
• Racing Beat DTSS eliminators
• Slotted and cross drilled brake rotors
• Turbo 2 brake components (4 piston front calipers and master cylinder) and spindles
• Front and rear strut bars
• Sportmax 17x8 w/ 225/45/17 (front) 17x9 w/ 255/40/17
• Hawk HP+ (f) Hawk HPS (r) with spare stock rotors
• ATE SuperBlue brake fluid
Interior/Exterior
• Scan Gauge II
• F1 Spec Silver Kevlar weave seat with low-mount seat bracket
• Shaved antenna and rear emblem
• GM Arctic White paint - repainted last year (ok paint job but not show winning)
Other details: Chassis was originally an SE with 90k. It was always road raced with 7 quarts of oil for extra safety. No radio or sound system installed but wiring is still there.
01-02-2009, 12:14 PM
#5
Staging Lane
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I'm not interested in a bike.
Interior shots as requested.
Interior when I got it. It no longer has a radio and the surround is cracked. The steering wheel is newer and the woodgrain ghetto fab arm rest was replaced with a standard blue one.
Interior shots as requested.
Interior when I got it. It no longer has a radio and the surround is cracked. The steering wheel is newer and the woodgrain ghetto fab arm rest was replaced with a standard blue one.
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01-03-2009, 12:29 AM
#12
Staging Lane
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I appreciate the interest, but I'm looking to stay on 4 wheels if a trade was involved. I have thought about getting on a bike, but its not my thing.
Sell the bike, and lets make a deal happen
Sell the bike, and lets make a deal happen
01-03-2009, 12:49 AM
#13
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HA! im in the middle of the same swap!
Not my car, but my friends a lazy punk who just throws the money around, looks clean man did you have to shave down some of the humps on the firewall to get it to fit? We've done a test and if we dont shave em down a bit the motor pushes too far into the space where the radiator is fitting
Not my car, but my friends a lazy punk who just throws the money around, looks clean man did you have to shave down some of the humps on the firewall to get it to fit? We've done a test and if we dont shave em down a bit the motor pushes too far into the space where the radiator is fitting
01-03-2009, 12:59 AM
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HA! im in the middle of the same swap!
Not my car, but my friends a lazy punk who just throws the money around, looks clean man did you have to shave down some of the humps on the firewall to get it to fit? We've done a test and if we dont shave em down a bit the motor pushes too far into the space where the radiator is fitting
Not my car, but my friends a lazy punk who just throws the money around, looks clean man did you have to shave down some of the humps on the firewall to get it to fit? We've done a test and if we dont shave em down a bit the motor pushes too far into the space where the radiator is fitting
Are you using a 1" core radiator or something thicker? You should have cut out some sheet metal and swung the radiator vertical as opposed to the semi v-mount the rotary had. You should be able to get your radiator right up near the front crash bar.
01-04-2009, 01:22 AM
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The lip on the firewall wasn't a problem, I did have to hammer in to make room for the map sensor. I removed and capped the oil galley for the pressure switch since it was only for monitoring on the PCM. That got the motor far enough back to clear everything I needed to.
Are you using a 1" core radiator or something thicker? You should have cut out some sheet metal and swung the radiator vertical as opposed to the semi v-mount the rotary had. You should be able to get your radiator right up near the front crash bar.
Are you using a 1" core radiator or something thicker? You should have cut out some sheet metal and swung the radiator vertical as opposed to the semi v-mount the rotary had. You should be able to get your radiator right up near the front crash bar.
were trying to get it as far forward as possible, maybe even in the front clip if we can find one small enough and good enough, the other guy actually workin on it suggested we could angle it and then imitate the airdam that my thirdgen has to make up for any lost air flow, seems like a good idea to me lol
01-04-2009, 12:32 PM
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