What Motor Oil You Running?
03-24-2010, 06:25 PM
#61
-James
03-25-2010, 12:43 PM
#65
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5w30 Valvoline MaxLife™ Full Synthetic w/ STP oil filter
I buy from Wal-mart.
Been using Valvoline as long as I can remember.
I run Valvoline in ALL my cars and never had any issues.
I buy from Wal-mart.
Been using Valvoline as long as I can remember.
I run Valvoline in ALL my cars and never had any issues.
03-29-2010, 12:23 AM
#67
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Just a heads up to you all so you don't get confused like I did tonight lol, AC Delco changed their filter design, it's now PF46E, it's about a 1/4 inch shorter. It's suppose to be shitty now though. ghey.
03-29-2010, 11:09 AM
#68
Mobil 1 5w30, been using that for years now.
put over 150K miles on my 93Z28 and when we took off the heads and looked inside she was all nice & purty and clean, I swear by it.
I've been using it on my 01SS now, over 65K miles put on it and I change it every 6K miles.
Mobil 1 M1-107 filter too.
I get it at Autozone, just bought a 5qt container for 29.99
put over 150K miles on my 93Z28 and when we took off the heads and looked inside she was all nice & purty and clean, I swear by it.
I've been using it on my 01SS now, over 65K miles put on it and I change it every 6K miles.
Mobil 1 M1-107 filter too.
I get it at Autozone, just bought a 5qt container for 29.99
03-29-2010, 11:28 AM
#70
i never understood the wights. i know the higher the number the thicker it is. why do some of you guys run 0w? arent you supposed to switch over to 10W from 5w after 75K mi?
03-29-2010, 09:35 PM
#71
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Those who live in climates where it varies from extreme cold to extreme hot, will run an oil such as a 0W-40. The 0w gives it ultimate capability to flow when its extremely cold out, to prevent engine wear on start up, and the 40w gives the motor ultimate protection when hot. 0W-30 or 0W-40 are excellent choices for any motor, especially LSX, but on older cars you may experience leaks when you didn't before. I used 0W-40 a few times in my Silverado with a 5.3 Vortec that has over a 100K on it, and didn't notice any more leaks than usual, but I already have a small bit of residual oil leaks on the oil pan, since the truck is ten years old.
03-30-2010, 08:30 PM
#75
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I run Amsoil in everything I own. 5W30 in the 2002 Camaro SS. A good word for Amsoil. I own a several routes for a well known delivery company. In my Stepvans I use Amsoil 15W40 Diesel Oil. I ran 76,000 miles on one oil change. I had the oil tested periodically and it was like new every time. I just change once a year now and have the oil tested when I do. I always get the same result, there is no need to change the oil, It always tests great. I change it once year just because I want to not need to. Averaging 50,000 a year of heavy stop ang go driving, hardly ever shutting the vehicle off. I am convinced there is no better oil with the results I get.
03-30-2010, 10:50 PM
#77
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There is a lot behind it, but i'll try and sum it up in a nutshell. The first number is the oil viscosity when its cold, and the second number is when its warmed up. A lot of people mistake the "W" in 5w-30 (for example) for "weight" but it actually stands for "WINTER." Most people recommend to switch from a 5w to a 10w after around 100K or so here in Cali, simply because higher mileage, aged motors are more prone to leaks due to time and mileage, so the thicker the oil is when its cold, the less it the motor will leak (in theory).
Those who live in climates where it varies from extreme cold to extreme hot, will run an oil such as a 0W-40. The 0w gives it ultimate capability to flow when its extremely cold out, to prevent engine wear on start up, and the 40w gives the motor ultimate protection when hot. 0W-30 or 0W-40 are excellent choices for any motor, especially LSX, but on older cars you may experience leaks when you didn't before. I used 0W-40 a few times in my Silverado with a 5.3 Vortec that has over a 100K on it, and didn't notice any more leaks than usual, but I already have a small bit of residual oil leaks on the oil pan, since the truck is ten years old.
Those who live in climates where it varies from extreme cold to extreme hot, will run an oil such as a 0W-40. The 0w gives it ultimate capability to flow when its extremely cold out, to prevent engine wear on start up, and the 40w gives the motor ultimate protection when hot. 0W-30 or 0W-40 are excellent choices for any motor, especially LSX, but on older cars you may experience leaks when you didn't before. I used 0W-40 a few times in my Silverado with a 5.3 Vortec that has over a 100K on it, and didn't notice any more leaks than usual, but I already have a small bit of residual oil leaks on the oil pan, since the truck is ten years old.
03-31-2010, 07:46 AM
#78
Yeah, I'll try to look it up today. I use to have have the article saved on my work computer and I deleted it. I do remember that there were only like 3-4 companies at class 1 and Amsoil and RP were two of them. I'll post it up as soon as I find it.
03-31-2010, 09:17 AM
#79
Ok guys, I was able to look up some info before getting busy at work. Check out this website for good info on motor oil, http://www.calsci.com/motorcycleinfo/Oils1.html. There is a ton of info out there and a lot of oil companies have their own oil ratings systems so watch out and make sure the info you get is from a neutral party. Prior info I had read listed the oil categories as Classes, it now seems the correct classification is by Groups. Group I II III IV and V.
Synthetic Oils Groups
V- Non mineral based stock, all man made
IV- Semi mineral based, stock still partially derived from dino-oil
III- Mineral based, most popular "syn" oils you see ( they get the job done for most applications one will see)
Group II- Mineral based oil using the Iso-DeWaxing method, 97% oil 3% paraffin wax.
There is a ton of oil info on the web you can look up and spend hours reading. I suggest everyone do so to get educated on how oil really works and how its made instead of relying on advertising, plus its pretty intresting. Basically Group II 'dino' oils include most conventional oils like Chevron Delo 400, Mobil Delvac 1300, and Shell Rotella. Group III mineral based synthetics are Mobil1, Castrol Syntec, and most other popular syn oils. Group IV are rarely seen since they are more expensive to produce than Group III but dont perform like Group V so no one really makes them. Might as well stick to Group III. Group V REAL full synthetics only include a small group, AMSoil, Redline, Motul 5100, Royal Purple, and Delvac-1.
A few more misconceptions: 'European Formulas' are better oils. In the U.S. youll find that some companies put a Euro Formula label on a specific oil. Only difference is that these oils contain more detergents than other 'US' oils but offer no extra protection and are no more special in other lubrication areas. Diesel oils as well can be used on gasoline engines. These oils contain more detergents for cleaner oil and additives for higher engine temps. They also usually contain more zinc. If you dont have a "smog legal" hi-perf engine it wouldnt hurt to use a good syn diesel engine oil. Also, ONLY IN THE U.S. is Group III oils sold as Full-Synthetics. Any where else they are considered to be a conventional oil or a blend.
Hope this helps. Like I said, there is a ton of info out there but truth is most oils, even dino-oil, will get the job done if you routinely maintain your vehicle and change the oil at the proper intervals, which vary with engine run time, not necessarily miles. I only recommend a Group V synthetic if you regularily see oil temps exceeding 250 degrees for a prolonged period of time or high revs. Good luck
BTW, Mobil1 and K&N oil filters are the same, made by Champion labs. K&N has that nut on it though that comes in handy.
Synthetic Oils Groups
V- Non mineral based stock, all man made
IV- Semi mineral based, stock still partially derived from dino-oil
III- Mineral based, most popular "syn" oils you see ( they get the job done for most applications one will see)
Group II- Mineral based oil using the Iso-DeWaxing method, 97% oil 3% paraffin wax.
There is a ton of oil info on the web you can look up and spend hours reading. I suggest everyone do so to get educated on how oil really works and how its made instead of relying on advertising, plus its pretty intresting. Basically Group II 'dino' oils include most conventional oils like Chevron Delo 400, Mobil Delvac 1300, and Shell Rotella. Group III mineral based synthetics are Mobil1, Castrol Syntec, and most other popular syn oils. Group IV are rarely seen since they are more expensive to produce than Group III but dont perform like Group V so no one really makes them. Might as well stick to Group III. Group V REAL full synthetics only include a small group, AMSoil, Redline, Motul 5100, Royal Purple, and Delvac-1.
A few more misconceptions: 'European Formulas' are better oils. In the U.S. youll find that some companies put a Euro Formula label on a specific oil. Only difference is that these oils contain more detergents than other 'US' oils but offer no extra protection and are no more special in other lubrication areas. Diesel oils as well can be used on gasoline engines. These oils contain more detergents for cleaner oil and additives for higher engine temps. They also usually contain more zinc. If you dont have a "smog legal" hi-perf engine it wouldnt hurt to use a good syn diesel engine oil. Also, ONLY IN THE U.S. is Group III oils sold as Full-Synthetics. Any where else they are considered to be a conventional oil or a blend.
Hope this helps. Like I said, there is a ton of info out there but truth is most oils, even dino-oil, will get the job done if you routinely maintain your vehicle and change the oil at the proper intervals, which vary with engine run time, not necessarily miles. I only recommend a Group V synthetic if you regularily see oil temps exceeding 250 degrees for a prolonged period of time or high revs. Good luck
BTW, Mobil1 and K&N oil filters are the same, made by Champion labs. K&N has that nut on it though that comes in handy.
Last edited by C5natie; 03-31-2010 at 10:57 AM.
