Anyone near Mountain View, CA: I will PAY YOU if you can get my swap working
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Anyone near Mountain View, CA: I will PAY YOU if you can get my swap working
As the title says, I'm having a hell of a time getting this swap running.
99 Camaro LS1 swapped into a 1990 Mazda Miata (stripped race car)
You can see my previous threads regarding this issue here (most recent first):
https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...art-issue.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...-h-ground.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...pcm-issue.html
Occasionally it will fire and idle, but its very hard to get it to do that. Once you give it any throttle after idling, it dies immediately. Logs of starting it are attached.
99 Camaro LS1 swapped into a 1990 Mazda Miata (stripped race car)
You can see my previous threads regarding this issue here (most recent first):
https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...art-issue.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...-h-ground.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...pcm-issue.html
Occasionally it will fire and idle, but its very hard to get it to do that. Once you give it any throttle after idling, it dies immediately. Logs of starting it are attached.
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too bad you werent closer. im bout to be starting a miata swap for a buddy so itd be nice for me to see some of the stuff.
who did they wiring?
when the rpms rise are you givin it gas? cause theres no TPS response.
who did they wiring?
when the rpms rise are you givin it gas? cause theres no TPS response.
Last edited by RPD_Vette84; 06-20-2012 at 07:42 PM.
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I could get it running in a day if it were in front of me.. or atleast pinpoint the problem. Sorry I can't read your logs, if you send me the software or take a screenshot and send it my way, I'll take a peak at it.
Whats the IAC and engine temp cold reading? I've seen stuck IACs cause this. Also have seen bad engine coolant temp sensors reading ridiculously low temps (-48F*) cause a no start/no rev, due to fuel dumping for cold enrichment. Whats with the MAF being unplugged?
What scares me the most about this is the fact that you back feed the chassis battery voltage. Once you apply + voltage to the ground side of electronics, its more than likely that you fried the PCM/sensors in one way or another. I would try a donor pcm and start ohm'ing out the sensors. Also check that the ground is connected on the backside of the cyl head.
Whats the IAC and engine temp cold reading? I've seen stuck IACs cause this. Also have seen bad engine coolant temp sensors reading ridiculously low temps (-48F*) cause a no start/no rev, due to fuel dumping for cold enrichment. Whats with the MAF being unplugged?
What scares me the most about this is the fact that you back feed the chassis battery voltage. Once you apply + voltage to the ground side of electronics, its more than likely that you fried the PCM/sensors in one way or another. I would try a donor pcm and start ohm'ing out the sensors. Also check that the ground is connected on the backside of the cyl head.
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I could get it running in a day if it were in front of me.. or atleast pinpoint the problem. Sorry I can't read your logs, if you send me the software or take a screenshot and send it my way, I'll take a peak at it.
Whats the IAC and engine temp cold reading? I've seen stuck IACs cause this. Also have seen bad engine coolant temp sensors reading ridiculously low temps (-48F*) cause a no start/no rev, due to fuel dumping for cold enrichment. Whats with the MAF being unplugged?
What scares me the most about this is the fact that you back feed the chassis battery voltage. Once you apply + voltage to the ground side of electronics, its more than likely that you fried the PCM/sensors in one way or another. I would try a donor pcm and start ohm'ing out the sensors. Also check that the ground is connected on the backside of the cyl head.
Whats the IAC and engine temp cold reading? I've seen stuck IACs cause this. Also have seen bad engine coolant temp sensors reading ridiculously low temps (-48F*) cause a no start/no rev, due to fuel dumping for cold enrichment. Whats with the MAF being unplugged?
What scares me the most about this is the fact that you back feed the chassis battery voltage. Once you apply + voltage to the ground side of electronics, its more than likely that you fried the PCM/sensors in one way or another. I would try a donor pcm and start ohm'ing out the sensors. Also check that the ground is connected on the backside of the cyl head.
Engine temp was 72* with an intake air temp of 64*. MAP sensor reads correctly at 100kPa with engine off, about 32kPa when idling. Can I look at or log IAC opening %? I don't see it in my current logs.
MAF is unplugged because everything I have read says you don't need it, and that's the way I've been able to get it fired.
The backfeeding voltage was caused by the grounding spot still having some paint on it and not getting a good ground. That is all fixed now and it appears all my sensors are reading correctly. I do have the ground on the back of the cylinder head, have a ground from the drivers side of the block to the chassis, and a ground from the passenger side head to the chassis.
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I'll see if I can get a day in the weekend to come up there, its a long haul for me from SD. I had a similar issue with it not being able to rev past 2500 with out the maf being uplugged. It was causing the pcm to go into limp mode and then it would allow it to rev. My old boss who was my tuner at the time said that "boost management" setting was set on and he turned it off using LS1edit. I'm not really sure what that is tbh... Also, is your maf on correctly? I'm pretty sure they are directional.
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Ressurecting this thread from the dead, but it turns out the ECM (9354896) that I bought from SpareECM on eBay (after I fried mine) did not actually have a tune on it. I brought the car to a local LS shop/tuner and they got it fired easily by loading a good map.
I will not do business with SpareECM again.
I will not do business with SpareECM again.