turbo kits?
10-09-2008, 10:07 AM
#21
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But you will still need a bracket/pullie and a front mont intercooler if you desire. It will begin to add up, you can pick up a used p1sc procharger kit for high 2ks and it will be emissions legal since it has a carb sticker.
. Take in mind my only mistake is spending most of my money on my car with a fucked up economy.
10-09-2008, 11:11 AM
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https://ls1tech.com/forums/showpost....21&postcount=1
10-09-2008, 11:25 AM
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carbonfiberbird the cheapest way to turbo is doing a truck manifold kit, But like ryne said it won't be emissions legal. depending on your hp goal you might have to do a fuel pump and injectors and don't forget a speed density tune. I got deep with my build and did my entire drivetrain and complete fuel system. I doubt my boosted ls1 will last but my intentions are to push it till it blows just like camarojunky.
10-09-2008, 11:28 AM
#31
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its not hate, i just wanted to point a friend in the right direction. from the outside looking in it looks like a mistake. on the other hand i hope i have to eat my words when you get that car dialed in and put up some nice numbers.
10-09-2008, 11:53 AM
#32
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Nothing about Forced Induction is cheap.
Even with a 6.0 truck manifold kit A quality turbo, wastegate, and Bov and flanges will be close to 2k, alumanized pipe 300-600, stainless, 600-1000. then you have to buy the intercooler and all the associated aluminum pipe that will have to get welded. plus you lose your AC. If you run aluminized pipe then you have to wrap it to keep it from rusting and to help keep the heat in, for stainless it should be tig'd and coated, but a wrap will be ok.
If you run the turbo in the rear your aluminum cost goes up as well as having to buy quality a scavenge pump to circulate the oil for the turbo.
so now you have 3-4k into your DIY setup and you have to buy all the supporting pieces, Converter, clutch, trans, injectors, new rear, forged shortblock, boost guage, boost controler etc.
So take your original 4k budget and double it, now you are close to what it may cost to get the car running.
Even with a 6.0 truck manifold kit A quality turbo, wastegate, and Bov and flanges will be close to 2k, alumanized pipe 300-600, stainless, 600-1000. then you have to buy the intercooler and all the associated aluminum pipe that will have to get welded. plus you lose your AC. If you run aluminized pipe then you have to wrap it to keep it from rusting and to help keep the heat in, for stainless it should be tig'd and coated, but a wrap will be ok.
If you run the turbo in the rear your aluminum cost goes up as well as having to buy quality a scavenge pump to circulate the oil for the turbo.
so now you have 3-4k into your DIY setup and you have to buy all the supporting pieces, Converter, clutch, trans, injectors, new rear, forged shortblock, boost guage, boost controler etc.
So take your original 4k budget and double it, now you are close to what it may cost to get the car running.
10-09-2008, 12:19 PM
#33
Going the turbo route can be expensive, but it would be cool if you get it right, and it runs hard in the end.
Your car would be badass with a head/cam swap. Naturally aspirated (maybe some nitrous
) F T W!!!
10-09-2008, 12:24 PM
#34
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thats probably what I am going to end up doing, - the no2, I am not a fas of nitrous. I was thinking for now just getting a ms3 cam and some LTs
10-09-2008, 01:58 PM
#39
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like juiced said forced induction is not cheap https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-induction/567592-real-price-forced-induction.html