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tips on how to lower my 60ft.

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Old 10-10-2008, 01:21 AM
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Originally Posted by 01SOMSS!
any advice. my 60's suck. i've been going to the track for the last month.
my car is a full bolton car. no cam or heads.I'm running bfg's Dr's 275x40?x17's and most of my 60's are 2.2's. i lower my tire pressure from 22psi-16 psi. i launch at 3krpm.any advice?
I just got some 16'' mt et streets that i'll be using soon. so it should hook a bit better. do you guys think it safe to run them on my car? kinda scared..thanks guys!
you can also try adding a thicker swaybar in the rear which helps keep the car from torquing to the right. i got a 24mm for sale, shoot me a pm
Old 10-10-2008, 02:09 AM
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lower control arm relocation brackets are awesome. i haven't gone to the track after putting them on, but you will notice the difference.
Old 10-10-2008, 10:22 AM
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install some slicks and drop the clutch at 5K (j/k)... and raise the car back up, if your not going to relocate the brackets.. low cars, suck at 60ft times..
Old 10-10-2008, 10:29 AM
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Originally Posted by ae13291
im not sure if u have that problem since u upgraded to the LS7 clutch and flywheel. on my stock clutch when i either drive my car high rpm for a long period of time or slip the clutch too much, the clutch pedal goes to the floor and it feels like there is no pressure in the line, it only lasts like 10 seconds but it can **** you up big time on the track
the issue with this isnt the physical clutch but rather the hydraulics, although the car would shift fine normally and even well when you hot rodding around, when your at the track and you start slipping the clutch and riding it out of the hole you create a lot of heat, sometimes too much for old fluid to handle so then the fluid boils if you will creating little air bubbles. if you were still on your stock clutch, all you would need to do is suck out all that bad ****, and pour in some new **** and put a mighty vac on the master and draw all the bubbles out, and repeat till your fluid stays clean after you drive your car. its something that takes days to accomplish
Old 10-10-2008, 12:53 PM
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Originally Posted by C5natie
I know, better rt better 60ft. This way your car is already rollin with momentum and your revs will be up there. Its all connected.
thanks for the quote pure stupidity right there.
Old 10-10-2008, 01:44 PM
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Better RT = better 60'?!?! Hahaha Thats the dumbest thing I have ever heard, even if you wait for 5 seconds after green then go your car still rolls out the same! The only thing that could add a bit is weather you shallow stage or deep stage (which can also get you a .1 down the track shallow staging)
Old 10-10-2008, 01:44 PM
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thus my new sig, i really like this 1
Old 10-10-2008, 01:48 PM
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Originally Posted by camarojunky74
thanks for the quote pure stupidity right there.
Well I made that one easy for you. I know the clock dont start till you leave the line so rt is not a factor. Let me correct myself. I guess I meant just leaving harder off the line would give you a better 60ft. The harder I left the line the better my rt was and my 60ft but I guess that was more good timing than anything else. Nice sig BTW. I dont mind a correction but careful with that stupidity ****.
Old 10-10-2008, 01:53 PM
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9", LCA's with relo brackets, adj TA, SFC, MT slicks, Textralia clutch, 150 shot off the line.
Old 10-10-2008, 01:56 PM
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Originally Posted by ss.slp.ls1
9", LCA's with relo brackets, adj TA, SFC, MT slicks, Textralia clutch, 150 shot off the line.
Will higher his 60' without at least a 28" slick.
Old 10-10-2008, 02:43 PM
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Originally Posted by camarojunky74
thanks for the quote pure stupidity right there.
Ha ha ha ha That is good.

Poor choice in words.

When I launch I usually Do about 1-3 seconds of waiting at the green. That way I launch and focus more on managing that not trying to get a great RT.
Old 10-10-2008, 03:01 PM
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Originally Posted by ss.slp.ls1
9", LCA's with relo brackets, adj TA, SFC, MT slicks, Textralia clutch, 150 shot off the line.
and if you want to go faster... th400 with 4000 stall converter
Old 10-10-2008, 03:08 PM
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Originally Posted by BobDoLe
and if you want to go faster... th400 with 4000 stall converter
M6>A4...for the fun factor.
Old 10-10-2008, 05:49 PM
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lol at this long as thread...sorry i didnt feel like reading it all but this what u need to do luis...

10bolt mt= bad ...u can do it but i wouldnt reccoment launching hard on them.

You need to turn off ur traction control

then
you need a torque arm
LCA's and drop brackets since ur cars lowered.

your springs are really stiff so therefore its gonna be harder to get good launches out of them. hense the reason that alot of drag racers with camaros keep the stock rear springs and put in drag bags.

after these things are installed 16-18lbs of air in these bfgs and 3500rpm launch to full throttle slipping the clutch u should pull off a 1.7...

your welcome in advance

i cut a 1.9 on kuhmo all seasons@ 18lbs dumdumdum
Old 10-10-2008, 08:16 PM
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Originally Posted by camarojunky74
the issue with this isnt the physical clutch but rather the hydraulics, although the car would shift fine normally and even well when you hot rodding around, when your at the track and you start slipping the clutch and riding it out of the hole you create a lot of heat, sometimes too much for old fluid to handle so then the fluid boils if you will creating little air bubbles. if you were still on your stock clutch, all you would need to do is suck out all that bad ****, and pour in some new **** and put a mighty vac on the master and draw all the bubbles out, and repeat till your fluid stays clean after you drive your car. its something that takes days to accomplish
i already done all that, bleed the system,drill mod, wrapped the line with high heat tape and am using dot 4, maybe if your godly hands touch it, it might be fixed.
Old 10-10-2008, 08:33 PM
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Originally Posted by ae13291
i already done all that, bleed the system,drill mod, wrapped the line with high heat tape and am using dot 4, maybe if your godly hands touch it, it might be fixed.
i try to help you out then you come back with godly hands?

and bleeding it does nothing you need to get a mighy vac.
Old 10-10-2008, 08:55 PM
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Originally Posted by camarojunky74
i try to help you out then you come back with godly hands?

and bleeding it does nothing you need to get a mighy vac.
my bad, i respect that fact that your a mechanic. when i usually dont hav somebody to sit inside the car and pressure bleed i usally do gravity bleeding. but i know pressure bleeding is far the best way but how in the hell can u hook up a mighty vac to the bleeder???
Old 10-10-2008, 09:21 PM
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Originally Posted by ae13291
my bad, i respect that fact that your a mechanic. when i usually dont hav somebody to sit inside the car and pressure bleed i usally do gravity bleeding. but i know pressure bleeding is far the best way but how in the hell can u hook up a mighty vac to the bleeder???
its cool, i like to think of myself a tech rather than mechanic, mechanics get paid **** and know ****, i get paid well and have all my ase's and have completed all my ford requirments and schooling, i am what they call a master diesel tech.

anyhow, you dont even touch the bleed screw, you suck the bubbles out from the resevoir, the little hole at the bottom, much more effective then trying to get it from the slave.
Old 10-10-2008, 09:36 PM
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Originally Posted by camarojunky74
its cool, i like to think of myself a tech rather than mechanic, mechanics get paid **** and know ****, i get paid well and have all my ase's and have completed all my ford requirments and schooling, i am what they call a master diesel tech.

anyhow, you dont even touch the bleed screw, you suck the bubbles out from the resevoir, the little hole at the bottom, much more effective then trying to get it from the slave.
??? o wow i dident think it could work that way. it sounds more effective. i actually have a mighty vac but it doesent have the provision for brake bleeding so i think the fluid will **** up the seals



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