Why do lowered 315's need rolled fenders?
06-08-2011, 10:19 PM
#1
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Why do lowered 315's need rolled fenders? If you do not change the height of the bumpstops, then why does it matter if the car is lowered or not?
I have 315's on 17x11 rims on my 99 Camaro SS convertible. The car has 140K miles so the suspension is really worn and I do bottom out. I noticed cuts on the outside of the tire, so I rolled the fenders. I want new suspension, but worry that the tires will hit the fender lip, because I also use 5/16" spacers to clear the inner wheel wells and bumpstops.
Does lowering the car mean that the tires will be able to travel further up into the wheel well?
I have 315's on 17x11 rims on my 99 Camaro SS convertible. The car has 140K miles so the suspension is really worn and I do bottom out. I noticed cuts on the outside of the tire, so I rolled the fenders. I want new suspension, but worry that the tires will hit the fender lip, because I also use 5/16" spacers to clear the inner wheel wells and bumpstops.
Does lowering the car mean that the tires will be able to travel further up into the wheel well?
06-08-2011, 11:16 PM
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If you do not change the height of the bumpstops, then why does it matter if the car is lowered or not?
I have 315's on 17x11 rims on my 99 Camaro SS convertible. The car has 140K miles so the suspension is really worn and I do bottom out. I noticed cuts on the outside of the tire, so I rolled the fenders. I want new suspension, but worry that the tires will hit the fender lip, because I also use 5/16" spacers to clear the inner wheel wells and bumpstops.
Does lowering the car mean that the tires will be able to travel further up into the wheel well?
I have 315's on 17x11 rims on my 99 Camaro SS convertible. The car has 140K miles so the suspension is really worn and I do bottom out. I noticed cuts on the outside of the tire, so I rolled the fenders. I want new suspension, but worry that the tires will hit the fender lip, because I also use 5/16" spacers to clear the inner wheel wells and bumpstops.
Does lowering the car mean that the tires will be able to travel further up into the wheel well?
06-08-2011, 11:16 PM
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On lowered cars, the distance from the tire an fender is smaller... So when you hit a bump the tire will hit the fender unless it is rolled. I'm not really sure what you're asking. LOL.
06-08-2011, 11:32 PM
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ummm.. you answered your own question right here...
Lowered of not your car was already hitting the fenders and cutting the tires!
SS's have spacer blocks on the bump stops (basically suspension travel limiters) on them from the factory anyone with a car that came with 16" rims won't have the travel limiters giving more suspension travel to start with and much higher chance of cutting a tire if they don't roll the fenders. With spacers on there though it will hit the fenders regardless they are rolled or not. you should take them off and simply remember to always jack the rear up by the pumpkin on the rearend. that will keep the axle from dropping and the wheels from hitting the bump stops.
SS's have spacer blocks on the bump stops (basically suspension travel limiters) on them from the factory anyone with a car that came with 16" rims won't have the travel limiters giving more suspension travel to start with and much higher chance of cutting a tire if they don't roll the fenders. With spacers on there though it will hit the fenders regardless they are rolled or not. you should take them off and simply remember to always jack the rear up by the pumpkin on the rearend. that will keep the axle from dropping and the wheels from hitting the bump stops.
06-09-2011, 09:32 AM
#5
Keep in mind, a "lowered" car will have the rear axle move laterally, in relation to the body. This movement is caused by the arc that's created by the panhard bar. This is why either lowered suspensions, or tires that are significantly wider that stock, can sometimes require an adjustable PHB be installed on the car, so the tires don't "collide" with the quarter panels....
06-09-2011, 01:12 PM
#6
A watts link will do a better job of keeping the left wheel from hitting the fender than an adj. phb. The adj. phb will only re-center the axle at rest, it does not decrease the amount of arc travel while the suspension is being loaded and unloaded.
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06-09-2011, 05:12 PM
#8
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I've been running a lowered adj. rod/rod PHB for years without contact. IMO, a watts is a waste of money for a street car that will never be raced. A street car will never need the kind of adj. that a watts provides. I'm willing to bet that most people (non-racers) couldn't tell the difference between the two on the street.
06-09-2011, 06:12 PM
#9
I've been running a lowered adj. rod/rod PHB for years without contact. IMO, a watts is a waste of money for a street car that will never be raced. A street car will never need the kind of adj. that a watts provides. I'm willing to bet that most people (non-racers) couldn't tell the difference between the two on the street.
