17x11 street lite tire backspacing/offset
08-07-2015, 07:26 PM
#1
Staging Lane
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 85
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
17x11 street lite tire backspacing/offset Hello, I just bought a 2000 camaro ss, and need to know what backspacing and offset I need to put 17x11 Billet Specialties street lite wheels and 315/35r17 M/T street comp tires on it and have the best fit. I also plan on lowering it 1.25 inches of that makes a difference. Thanks, Logan.
08-07-2015, 08:04 PM
#3
Staging Lane
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 85
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
08-07-2015, 09:30 PM
#7
Staging Lane
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 85
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Does anyone know what backspacing and offset works best with an 11 inch wide wheel in a 4th gen F body. I will do whatever I have to do to the fender well to make it fit. Thanks, Logan.
Trending Topics
08-07-2015, 09:41 PM
#8
Staging Lane
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 85
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
08-07-2015, 11:15 PM
#10
11 Second Club
iTrader: (127)
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: MS
Posts: 984
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
7.5" for stock width rear end. I ran 17x11s on my stock 10 bolt. Miss em.
Yes will need to beat in wheel wells, but I did not have to roll my fenders. Ran MT 315s, Nitto 315s and even Hoosier 335s.
Yes will need to beat in wheel wells, but I did not have to roll my fenders. Ran MT 315s, Nitto 315s and even Hoosier 335s.
08-07-2015, 11:37 PM
#11
Staging Lane
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 85
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
08-08-2015, 10:23 PM
#13
I use ZR1 replicas all around which are advertised as having a +50mm offset/7.93" backspacing, but I found I had to add a minimum of a 1/4" hub centric spacer on all corners.
For the rears, I had to use the hammer mod on the rear inner wheel wells, and switched to tubular LCA's for more tire clearance. If you have the backseat in the vehicle, ensure you have the back seat up and in the latched position when you're beating on the wheel well or else you may have difficulty getting it to latch again.
I'm not clear if you plan to use 11x17 in the front also... but on mine I think I had to remove a small hump in the spindle; it may also rub a little on the plastic wheel liner and/or sway bar arm depending upon how far you turn it and the thickness of the arm.
I tended to run the car a little lower for autocross, not sure on the measurement, about one finger thickness between the contact patch and the fender. With genuine slicks or DOT race tires where the contact patch curves towards the sidewall, there wasn't any need for rolling the rear fenders. But when I switched to street tires where they were more square on the edges, then I began to have problems. I chose to raise the vehicle instead of rolling the fenders because it addressed some other low clearance problems I had in street driving.
For the rears, I had to use the hammer mod on the rear inner wheel wells, and switched to tubular LCA's for more tire clearance. If you have the backseat in the vehicle, ensure you have the back seat up and in the latched position when you're beating on the wheel well or else you may have difficulty getting it to latch again.
I'm not clear if you plan to use 11x17 in the front also... but on mine I think I had to remove a small hump in the spindle; it may also rub a little on the plastic wheel liner and/or sway bar arm depending upon how far you turn it and the thickness of the arm.
I tended to run the car a little lower for autocross, not sure on the measurement, about one finger thickness between the contact patch and the fender. With genuine slicks or DOT race tires where the contact patch curves towards the sidewall, there wasn't any need for rolling the rear fenders. But when I switched to street tires where they were more square on the edges, then I began to have problems. I chose to raise the vehicle instead of rolling the fenders because it addressed some other low clearance problems I had in street driving.
08-09-2015, 11:55 AM
#16
Probably not. I'm running a "mid-sized" 315. Like the Goodyears are wider and the Nitto NT555s. The NT05Rs aren't skinny for 315s, but they aren't as massive as some others. So it depends on the tire to some degree.
I may try an M&H 325/45-17 at some point to see. I think the 28" height would be a bigger issue than the width. And if I removed the rear isolators and got the car down another 1/2" or so in the back, I don't think the 28" tires would fit too well. Tires I have would...
I may try an M&H 325/45-17 at some point to see. I think the 28" height would be a bigger issue than the width. And if I removed the rear isolators and got the car down another 1/2" or so in the back, I don't think the 28" tires would fit too well. Tires I have would...
08-09-2015, 09:51 PM
#17
Staging Lane
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 85
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I use ZR1 replicas all around which are advertised as having a +50mm offset/7.93" backspacing, but I found I had to add a minimum of a 1/4" hub centric spacer on all corners.
For the rears, I had to use the hammer mod on the rear inner wheel wells, and switched to tubular LCA's for more tire clearance. If you have the backseat in the vehicle, ensure you have the back seat up and in the latched position when you're beating on the wheel well or else you may have difficulty getting it to latch again.
I'm not clear if you plan to use 11x17 in the front also... but on mine I think I had to remove a small hump in the spindle; it may also rub a little on the plastic wheel liner and/or sway bar arm depending upon how far you turn it and the thickness of the arm.
I tended to run the car a little lower for autocross, not sure on the measurement, about one finger thickness between the contact patch and the fender. With genuine slicks or DOT race tires where the contact patch curves towards the sidewall, there wasn't any need for rolling the rear fenders. But when I switched to street tires where they were more square on the edges, then I began to have problems. I chose to raise the vehicle instead of rolling the fenders because it addressed some other low clearance problems I had in street driving.
For the rears, I had to use the hammer mod on the rear inner wheel wells, and switched to tubular LCA's for more tire clearance. If you have the backseat in the vehicle, ensure you have the back seat up and in the latched position when you're beating on the wheel well or else you may have difficulty getting it to latch again.
I'm not clear if you plan to use 11x17 in the front also... but on mine I think I had to remove a small hump in the spindle; it may also rub a little on the plastic wheel liner and/or sway bar arm depending upon how far you turn it and the thickness of the arm.
I tended to run the car a little lower for autocross, not sure on the measurement, about one finger thickness between the contact patch and the fender. With genuine slicks or DOT race tires where the contact patch curves towards the sidewall, there wasn't any need for rolling the rear fenders. But when I switched to street tires where they were more square on the edges, then I began to have problems. I chose to raise the vehicle instead of rolling the fenders because it addressed some other low clearance problems I had in street driving.
08-09-2015, 09:53 PM
#18
Staging Lane
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 85
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
08-10-2015, 07:06 AM
#20
Staging Lane
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 85
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts