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I have 1/4" spacers on the rear of my 2000 Firebird. I'd like to change out the studs for longer ones. I will not be using ARP.
I am trying to find these parts locally (Edmonton, Canada) and Napa says the OEM replacement stud is Napa part number 6411621. They also advise the extended stud (about 1/2" longer) is Napa part number 6411581.
can anyone out there advise if 6411581 is the right stud to use?
The main issue i'm having is dealing with the knurl measurement. I read that OEM is .509" yet the Napa parts have different measurements. the replacement (6411621) knurl is .501" and the longer stud (6411581) is .504"
Will 6411581 work? Is there a different option (other than the expensive ARP)?
Final try. I posted this in wheels and tires and suspension and no answers. Please help
I have 1/4" spacers on the rear of my 2000 Firebird. I'd like to change out the studs for longer ones. I will not be using ARP. I am trying to find these parts locally (Edmonton, Canada) and Napa says the OEM replacement stud is Napa part number 6411621. They also advise the extended stud (about 1/2" longer) is Napa part number 6411581. can anyone out there advise if 6411581 is the right stud to use?
The main issue i'm having is dealing with the knurl measurement. I read that OEM is .509" yet the Napa parts have different measurements. the replacement (6411621) knurl is .501" and the longer stud (6411581) is .504"
Will 6411581 work? Is there a different option (other than the expensive ARP)?
They are so expensive! I fully believe they are amazing studs but they are $75/package (amazon Canada) and $150 is too much money to spend on this. I don' race the car. Hell, I haven't even spun the tires in the 3 years I've owned it. Just looking for a few more threads in light of the spacers but I just cant justify the ARP cost.
I once thought the same as you, however, after breaking a few of the stock length studs, My opinion is that the extra safety the ARP studs provide are worth the expense. You are putting more stress on the stud by going with a longer stud, so it would make sense to me that the extra strength of the ARP justifies its expense. ....if you're riding down the road and lose a wheel due to studs breaking, the damage that will cause is going to be waaaay more than the expense of the ARP studs I'm sure and then you'll really be kicking yourself. I'm not one to spend unnecessarily either, but there are just some things it's not worth skimping on IMO...
I purchased mine from Summit racing... I use the ARP 100-7708 and they're $26.99 US on their website...
I once thought the same as you, however, after breaking a few of the stock length studs, My opinion is that the extra safety the ARP studs provide are worth the expense. You are putting more stress on the stud by going with a longer stud, so it would make sense to me that the extra strength of the ARP justifies its expense. ....if you're riding down the road and lose a wheel due to studs breaking, the damage that will cause is going to be waaaay more than the expense of the ARP studs I'm sure and then you'll really be kicking yourself. I'm not one to spend unnecessarily either, but there are just some things it's not worth skimping on IMO...
I purchased mine from Summit racing... I use the ARP 100-7708 and they're $26.99 US on their website...
I agree with all of your logic but it will cost me $150 to buy these studs in Canada. They are $75 a pack on amazon and at $30 a pack USD plus $30 shipping, it will still cost me $150 once duty and exchange is factored in. I just don’t think I can justify that cost.
iam from canada and just bought a set of ARP 1007708 Wheel Studs for $56.32 a set plus free shipping on Amazon. ca ,i would stick to ARP product. last thing you need is to lose a wheel to save money
iam from canada and just bought a set of ARP 1007708 Wheel Studs for $56.32 a set plus free shipping on Amazon. ca ,i would stick to ARP product. last thing you need is to lose a wheel to save money
As already mentioned, call Strange. Get your axle drilled and tapped to accept 1/2″- 20 studs so that you can go with 3" long 1/2 thick screw in studs. Don't go press in, they will spin in the knurl and are not as strong. A set of 10 studs runs $25
I did them on all 4 corners. I had to get new bearings and lock rings on my Dana S60 setup when doing the swap. Posting this for the Dana S60 guys also:
A1021B - 1.555” ID LOCK RING $4.50 EA
A1013 Rear bearing $35 EA
Fronts I just used stock timken hubs and had a local machine shop put them in.
Last edited by 5.7stroker; Apr 22, 2020 at 08:20 PM.
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Extended Wheel Studs 
