15X15 Mickey Thompson on a 2000 SS
02-22-2006, 09:52 PM
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Originally Posted by NBMgreg
what good is the search button without people making threads to read about? such as this... let this thread serve noobs across the country SEARCHING for 15x15 wheel info.
02-22-2006, 09:54 PM
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Originally Posted by NBMgreg
what good is the search button without people making threads to read about? such as this... let this thread serve noobs across the country SEARCHING for 15x15 wheel info.
02-22-2006, 09:59 PM
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Originally Posted by NBMgreg
aside from the flame pit...
i understand that you want 15x15 slicks on your car... but just dont do it... ALWAYS research alot before buying ANY kind of mod, and you will save alot of money/time doing so. you have a stock LT1 t/a (no offense), not a tubbed drag car... stick with street wheels man, there are alot of very nice wheels that have a considerable amount of width...
you might be interested in:
american racing TT2's- very common, you can get them in 17x11
replica ZR1's- also come in 17x11
replica zo6's- come in 18x10.5
the wheels above can be had considerably cheap. if money is not an issue, look at wheels by CCW, boyd coddington, Fikse, and HRE... they offer custom wheels made to your specs and can be made in tons of different sizes, widths, offsets and etc... just look around.
on a 17x11 rim, you can fit a 315/35/17 drag radial that will give you WAY more than enough traction for your setup. also, dont spring and buy a set of skinny/drag wheel setup for your car right away, tires for these setups can be very expensive, and would give you no more traction advantage than a 315DR setup with your kind of power. i would stick with a basic street setup for now, untill you REALLY need the drag wheels
basically, just look around... research, look at as many pictures as possible, and find which wheels YOU like... and dont always spring for the most hardcore thing you can find (15x15 drag wheel).
as for handling, just about any aftermarket wheel you would want runs a 9.5" wide wheel for the front, which with a nice suspension setup, should be enough for street driving... as for doing 140+ on the freeway, its your car, your decission... im not going to say anything about that... you make your own decissions. anyway, i hope this helped
i understand that you want 15x15 slicks on your car... but just dont do it... ALWAYS research alot before buying ANY kind of mod, and you will save alot of money/time doing so. you have a stock LT1 t/a (no offense), not a tubbed drag car... stick with street wheels man, there are alot of very nice wheels that have a considerable amount of width...
you might be interested in:
american racing TT2's- very common, you can get them in 17x11
replica ZR1's- also come in 17x11
replica zo6's- come in 18x10.5
the wheels above can be had considerably cheap. if money is not an issue, look at wheels by CCW, boyd coddington, Fikse, and HRE... they offer custom wheels made to your specs and can be made in tons of different sizes, widths, offsets and etc... just look around.
on a 17x11 rim, you can fit a 315/35/17 drag radial that will give you WAY more than enough traction for your setup. also, dont spring and buy a set of skinny/drag wheel setup for your car right away, tires for these setups can be very expensive, and would give you no more traction advantage than a 315DR setup with your kind of power. i would stick with a basic street setup for now, untill you REALLY need the drag wheels
basically, just look around... research, look at as many pictures as possible, and find which wheels YOU like... and dont always spring for the most hardcore thing you can find (15x15 drag wheel).
as for handling, just about any aftermarket wheel you would want runs a 9.5" wide wheel for the front, which with a nice suspension setup, should be enough for street driving... as for doing 140+ on the freeway, its your car, your decission... im not going to say anything about that... you make your own decissions. anyway, i hope this helped
02-22-2006, 10:08 PM
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i think what your looking for is a nice drag radial for the rear tires... its half drag wheel, half radial, hence the name drag radial... so those will probly benefit you for the rears, as for the fronts... get a nice street tire, remember, you dont have to get the same kind of wheel all around, you can mix it up...
as for your hp mods... the CAI wont add much... so dont count on that being a drastic increase in HP... as for exhaust, def. research exhaust setups before buying ANYTHING... alot of people say a FULL exhaust system will really wake up any LT1 or LS1... but untill you start getting into internal work, you wont need anything bigger than a 315 tire IMO.
as for your hp mods... the CAI wont add much... so dont count on that being a drastic increase in HP... as for exhaust, def. research exhaust setups before buying ANYTHING... alot of people say a FULL exhaust system will really wake up any LT1 or LS1... but untill you start getting into internal work, you wont need anything bigger than a 315 tire IMO.
02-22-2006, 10:10 PM
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Originally Posted by indoes
"If you try to remember back real far I'm sure you can remember a time when you didn't know anything about tire performance either" there was a time like that and guess what? I used that handy button on the top of the page, 3rd one from the top right called search, and searched for information.
02-22-2006, 10:27 PM
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Originally Posted by NBMgreg
if this helps... ive got a buddy with a bolt on LS1 that ran a 12.1 with drag radials on STOCK 16x8 wheels...
Last edited by HeBen; 02-22-2006 at 10:33 PM.
02-22-2006, 10:35 PM
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i believe the LT1 stock wheels came 16x8 as well, ive got a few friends with lt1's...
as for cornering, i dont think the rear tires affect handling? other than losing traction and sliding, but that shouldnt be a problem for a long time... like somebody said above... hes got over 400whp and his 315 DR's work just fine for him. i think for handling, you'll be more concerned with suspension components and front tires, rather than rear tires... im not sure what size tires would fit on a 17x9.5 wheel, but just look into a nice reputable street tire... thats all you'll need, and DEFINATELY look into suspension components if you plan on cornering at high speeds...
as for your power goals... i'd start off with a basic CAI, FULL exhaust, such as mid/long tube headers, off road y pipe (no cats), or catted y pipe (if you need emissions) and a nice good flowing catback... just get the car breathing good... then you start thinking about bigger things, such as pullies, an intake manifold, etc... all of which are SUPPORTING mods for a nice head/cam setup... as for porting stock heads, if it were me... i'd just save up and get a nice head/cam package THEN get the car tuned by a reputable tuner... NOT a handheld tuning device.
as for cornering, i dont think the rear tires affect handling? other than losing traction and sliding, but that shouldnt be a problem for a long time... like somebody said above... hes got over 400whp and his 315 DR's work just fine for him. i think for handling, you'll be more concerned with suspension components and front tires, rather than rear tires... im not sure what size tires would fit on a 17x9.5 wheel, but just look into a nice reputable street tire... thats all you'll need, and DEFINATELY look into suspension components if you plan on cornering at high speeds...
as for your power goals... i'd start off with a basic CAI, FULL exhaust, such as mid/long tube headers, off road y pipe (no cats), or catted y pipe (if you need emissions) and a nice good flowing catback... just get the car breathing good... then you start thinking about bigger things, such as pullies, an intake manifold, etc... all of which are SUPPORTING mods for a nice head/cam setup... as for porting stock heads, if it were me... i'd just save up and get a nice head/cam package THEN get the car tuned by a reputable tuner... NOT a handheld tuning device.
02-22-2006, 10:50 PM
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Originally Posted by NBMgreg
i believe the LT1 stock wheels came 16x8 as well, ive got a few friends with lt1's...
as for cornering, i dont think the rear tires affect handling? other than losing traction and sliding, but that shouldnt be a problem for a long time... like somebody said above... hes got over 400whp and his 315 DR's work just fine for him. i think for handling, you'll be more concerned with suspension components and front tires, rather than rear tires... im not sure what size tires would fit on a 17x9.5 wheel, but just look into a nice reputable street tire... thats all you'll need, and DEFINATELY look into suspension components if you plan on cornering at high speeds...
as for your power goals... i'd start off with a basic CAI, FULL exhaust, such as mid/long tube headers, off road y pipe (no cats), or catted y pipe (if you need emissions) and a nice good flowing catback... just get the car breathing good... then you start thinking about bigger things, such as pullies, an intake manifold, etc... all of which are SUPPORTING mods for a nice head/cam setup... as for porting stock heads, if it were me... i'd just save up and get a nice head/cam package THEN get the car tuned by a reputable tuner... NOT a handheld tuning device.
as for cornering, i dont think the rear tires affect handling? other than losing traction and sliding, but that shouldnt be a problem for a long time... like somebody said above... hes got over 400whp and his 315 DR's work just fine for him. i think for handling, you'll be more concerned with suspension components and front tires, rather than rear tires... im not sure what size tires would fit on a 17x9.5 wheel, but just look into a nice reputable street tire... thats all you'll need, and DEFINATELY look into suspension components if you plan on cornering at high speeds...
as for your power goals... i'd start off with a basic CAI, FULL exhaust, such as mid/long tube headers, off road y pipe (no cats), or catted y pipe (if you need emissions) and a nice good flowing catback... just get the car breathing good... then you start thinking about bigger things, such as pullies, an intake manifold, etc... all of which are SUPPORTING mods for a nice head/cam setup... as for porting stock heads, if it were me... i'd just save up and get a nice head/cam package THEN get the car tuned by a reputable tuner... NOT a handheld tuning device.
02-22-2006, 11:02 PM
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ive never heard of a "muffler eliminator"... you must be thinking of a CUTOUT... i actually have one.. its a small peice in the shape of a Y, it welds directly into the ehxaust pipe BEFORE the muffler (mines right under my back seat), and the other part of the "Y" is a small branch off with a valve at the end, its electronically run by an actuator, and there is a switch you rig inside your car to open the valve or close the valve, thus "bypassing" the muffler. cutouts are a really good deal considering the price to HP ratio... its one of my fav. mods cuz i can be loud as hell at the flip of a switch.
as for true duals, alot of people like them, they have a deeper tone than the usual y pipe/cat back setup... but if you have to do smog, i think you should stick with a catted y pipe/catback setup to stay legal. if you do go true duals, you'll want to stick with a 2.5" td setup, as a full 3" TD setup wouldnt have enough back pressure for a stock cubed motor.
for tuning, you can try tuning yourself... BUT, if you get a head/cam combo, you will need to have it prof. tuned, tuning a cam is very hard and requires a dyno, its usually refered to as a "dyno tune"... it'll cost about 500-700$... but the better the tune, the more you'll see from your cam.
as for true duals, alot of people like them, they have a deeper tone than the usual y pipe/cat back setup... but if you have to do smog, i think you should stick with a catted y pipe/catback setup to stay legal. if you do go true duals, you'll want to stick with a 2.5" td setup, as a full 3" TD setup wouldnt have enough back pressure for a stock cubed motor.
for tuning, you can try tuning yourself... BUT, if you get a head/cam combo, you will need to have it prof. tuned, tuning a cam is very hard and requires a dyno, its usually refered to as a "dyno tune"... it'll cost about 500-700$... but the better the tune, the more you'll see from your cam.
02-22-2006, 11:29 PM
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Originally Posted by NBMgreg
ive never heard of a "muffler eliminator"... you must be thinking of a CUTOUT... i actually have one.. its a small peice in the shape of a Y, it welds directly into the ehxaust pipe BEFORE the muffler (mines right under my back seat), and the other part of the "Y" is a small branch off with a valve at the end, its electronically run by an actuator, and there is a switch you rig inside your car to open the valve or close the valve, thus "bypassing" the muffler. cutouts are a really good deal considering the price to HP ratio... its one of my fav. mods cuz i can be loud as hell at the flip of a switch.
as for true duals, alot of people like them, they have a deeper tone than the usual y pipe/cat back setup... but if you have to do smog, i think you should stick with a catted y pipe/catback setup to stay legal. if you do go true duals, you'll want to stick with a 2.5" td setup, as a full 3" TD setup wouldnt have enough back pressure for a stock cubed motor.
for tuning, you can try tuning yourself... BUT, if you get a head/cam combo, you will need to have it prof. tuned, tuning a cam is very hard and requires a dyno, its usually refered to as a "dyno tune"... it'll cost about 500-700$... but the better the tune, the more you'll see from your cam.
as for true duals, alot of people like them, they have a deeper tone than the usual y pipe/cat back setup... but if you have to do smog, i think you should stick with a catted y pipe/catback setup to stay legal. if you do go true duals, you'll want to stick with a 2.5" td setup, as a full 3" TD setup wouldnt have enough back pressure for a stock cubed motor.
for tuning, you can try tuning yourself... BUT, if you get a head/cam combo, you will need to have it prof. tuned, tuning a cam is very hard and requires a dyno, its usually refered to as a "dyno tune"... it'll cost about 500-700$... but the better the tune, the more you'll see from your cam.
02-22-2006, 11:49 PM
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well when you buy an aftermarket catback... it comes with everything from the y pipe back, INCLUDING a high flow muffler... and if you need to pass emissions, you will need to have a muffler... now which catback you chose is completely up to you... i have a hooker, its cheap, good quality, and sounds nice... the top choices i see are hooker, slp loudmouth, and gmmg... the gmmg is a bit more expensive, but most say its the "best"... the slp loudmouth doesnt really have a muffler, rather a hollow resonator.. it sounds good with stock exhuast manifold and stock y pipe, but if you get long tube headers and an off road y pipe, the noise can be very loud... like my car with the cutout open 
cutouts are very cool, like i said i love mine... be sure to get an electric one though. with my setup, when its open im basically running open headers... as for hp gain with the cutout open vs. closed, i saw a test where they gained 12hp just from opening the cutout rather than having it closed on an ls1.
forgot to mention, if your trying to find which catback you like the best, check out www.ls1sounds.com it has clips of pretty much any setup you can think of, people make short vids or sound clips and put them on there... probly one of the most useful sites you'll ever use... i love it. and dont mind the name, they have lt1 sounds there too.
cutouts are very cool, like i said i love mine... be sure to get an electric one though. with my setup, when its open im basically running open headers... as for hp gain with the cutout open vs. closed, i saw a test where they gained 12hp just from opening the cutout rather than having it closed on an ls1.forgot to mention, if your trying to find which catback you like the best, check out www.ls1sounds.com it has clips of pretty much any setup you can think of, people make short vids or sound clips and put them on there... probly one of the most useful sites you'll ever use... i love it. and dont mind the name, they have lt1 sounds there too.
02-23-2006, 12:23 AM
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OMG!!! I'm sorry to interject more sarcasm into this thread....but what the hell, I'm only a day late.
This thread made my night....me and my roommate laughed so hard I was crying at one point.
NBMgreg Thank you so much for taking the time to educate this poor fellow. Coming from a long line of racing families, I can't fathom the idea of not knowing how traction works.
HeBen For God’s sake, be careful or they will be picking up pieces of you off the side of the road.
I have raced road courses with my 2002 6 speed on nothing more than 275/40/17 Nitto Drag Radials out back. Get yourself a set of 17x9.5 wheels for all 4 corners, slap a pair of Dr’s out back with the complimenting street tire of your choice for the front, and you will be fine. If you happened to go as large as a 315 out back, you run a very high risk of
your stock rear-end. Most guys with rwhp in the 600+ range are running 315 DRs for street use.
02-23-2006, 11:55 AM
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I was thinking the same thing. Maybe more along the line of 275 or maybe even 295's would work for you since you don't have a very high amount of horsepower yet.
02-26-2006, 04:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Sixspeed02TA
NBMgreg Thank you so much for taking the time to educate this poor fellow. Coming from a long line of racing families, I can't fathom the idea of not knowing how traction works.
HeBen For God’s sake, be careful or they will be picking up pieces of you off the side of the road.
I have raced road courses with my 2002 6 speed on nothing more than 275/40/17 Nitto Drag Radials out back. Get yourself a set of 17x9.5 wheels for all 4 corners, slap a pair of Dr’s out back with the complimenting street tire of your choice for the front, and you will be fine. If you happened to go as large as a 315 out back, you run a very high risk of your stock rear-end. Most guys with rwhp in the 600+ range are running 315 DRs for street use.
HeBen For God’s sake, be careful or they will be picking up pieces of you off the side of the road.
I have raced road courses with my 2002 6 speed on nothing more than 275/40/17 Nitto Drag Radials out back. Get yourself a set of 17x9.5 wheels for all 4 corners, slap a pair of Dr’s out back with the complimenting street tire of your choice for the front, and you will be fine. If you happened to go as large as a 315 out back, you run a very high risk of
your stock rear-end. Most guys with rwhp in the 600+ range are running 315 DRs for street use.
I come from a family who knows absolutely NOTHING about racing. 
I could go on and on about how hard it's been for me to find people like you guys who actually have knowledge and experiance with fast cars. Maybe you can't fathom what that would be like but that's where I come from. I have worked very hard just to learn what I already know but I'm still pre-novice compared to alot of people on here. Your help and input is appreciated. I would like to go as fast as possible while staying safely on the road. Thankyou again for helping me to acheive this. So it sounds like 295 drs is what I'm looking for? would getting a 12 bolt rear so I can run 315s or bigger help at all if I'm just doing intake, full exhaust, computer tuning, and perhaps a cam and/or head porting? I think the answer to this is "no" because I'd be nowhere near the 600+ range that you mentioned, but I could be wrong to assume this. Thanks again.
02-26-2006, 04:37 PM
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i like to think 12bolts are great for ANY setup... the stock 10bolt is nowhere near bulletproof, and ive even seen them blow up on stock cars while given a nice launch... 12bolts are expensive, but the whole point of having one is to support any sort of power, and if you ever plan on getting 3.73 or 4.10/4.11 gears a 12 bolt is the way to go.
and ya 295's would be enough for your plans, alot of people put 315's on mild bolt on cars simply because it looks badass, which it does none the less, but its not necessary.
and ya 295's would be enough for your plans, alot of people put 315's on mild bolt on cars simply because it looks badass, which it does none the less, but its not necessary.
02-26-2006, 04:56 PM
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so do the 17x9.5s that were mentioned improve handling over something of a smaller diameter? Those are the same dimensions as corvette wheels aren't they? It seems like those dimensions are kinda hard to find outside of corvette wheels. Are there any other dimentions of wheels that would work just as well for my applications with the 295s that might be easier to find or cheaper? Also, is a catback really necessary with an electric cutout? It was said you can get about 12 hp over stock with the cutout in an ls1 but I was under the impression that you could get about the same gains with a decent catback. Is that true? would that then make the cutout just baisically a sound switch?
02-26-2006, 05:14 PM
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depends on what cat back you have... if you get the slp loudmouth the cutout will have very little gains cuz the slp is basically a hollow resonator, hardly any resistance... compared to a flowmaster, do NOT get a flowmaster muffler, it is one of the worst flowing mufflers for our cars...
as for wheels... there are alot of 17/18x9.5 wheels:
hp evo
hpr5
ruff 278
ruff 279
privat profil
zo6 wheels
c6 wheels
zr1 wheels
adr msports
there are alot, just search some of those and see which ones you like best and go from there
as for wheels... there are alot of 17/18x9.5 wheels:
hp evo
hpr5
ruff 278
ruff 279
privat profil
zo6 wheels
c6 wheels
zr1 wheels
adr msports
there are alot, just search some of those and see which ones you like best and go from there
02-27-2006, 01:44 AM
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See if you can find some '98+ WS6 wheels. They will be cheap enough ~$350 and in the size range your looking for.
BTW....Since we are planning ahead here; if you do the above mentioned mods, the next thing to replace will be the clutch.
And YES...any question that you could possibly come up with, on any topic, can more than likely be answered by searching for that topic. For instance...if your wondering what tires will fit on what wheel...look at the top of this section.
BTW....Since we are planning ahead here; if you do the above mentioned mods, the next thing to replace will be the clutch.
And YES...any question that you could possibly come up with, on any topic, can more than likely be answered by searching for that topic. For instance...if your wondering what tires will fit on what wheel...look at the top of this section.