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Stripping stock wheels.

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Old Apr 28, 2006 | 02:05 PM
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Default Stripping stock wheels.

I have to strip my stock wheels down completely. What are they made out of? Allum right? I have to keep the tires on them as well...
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Old Apr 28, 2006 | 03:10 PM
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They are aluminum but you'll have to take the wheels off your car. You could leave the tires on but make sure to tape them off and put some thick paperbags or newspaper over the tires. You'll have to be careful though.
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Old Apr 28, 2006 | 03:48 PM
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Yea Im gonna take them off of the car, thats forsure. I just need to know how to strip them, and get them ready for paint, whilst on a tire. I know I cant blast them b/c they are aluminum..... Are my wheels the same as the ones used on the CETA's, only not black? How would I go about masking off a polished lip? Would I go about polishing the lip? Is that something I could do after I painted the wheels?
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Old Apr 28, 2006 | 04:24 PM
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In your case I would not strip the entire wheel. I would buy some aircraft paint stripper in a spray can and just spray around the lip. Mask off the tires and face of the wheels. Just wait for the aircraft stripper to work then take all the paint off with a scraper. Then use sandpaper 'til you get the results that you want on the lip of the wheels. Prep the surface of the wheels with some scotchbrite pads just to get the paint to scuff so the primer could stick. Tape off the lip and paint the wheels.
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Old Apr 28, 2006 | 09:24 PM
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What about the weights that balance the wheels? How can I get those off? I do not want them back on, I wanna go with some you can't see...
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Old Apr 28, 2006 | 09:39 PM
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Also, any close ups of polished lips?
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Old Apr 28, 2006 | 10:56 PM
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and what should my process include for polishing them? Say I wanna do all of the rims...

Stripper
120
250
400 wet
1200 wet
2000 wet
Powerball?
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Old Apr 29, 2006 | 01:10 AM
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Stripping paint off the wheels is a HUGE PITA. I wouldn't advise it.
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Old Apr 29, 2006 | 01:44 AM
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Originally Posted by Sgt. Spuds
Are my wheels the same as the ones used on the CETA's, only not black?
Yours are a litthe different, the CETA wheels are pretty much black WS6 wheels with a polished lip, where as yours are 16x8's awith a slightly different spoke style.
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Old Apr 29, 2006 | 04:32 AM
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You're never going to be able to get Aircraft Remover to strip just the paint on the lip of the wheel and leave a perfectly straight line that divides the painted section from the polished section. Also, once you start sanding even if you had the hands of a surgeon there will eventually come a time when you'll "cross the line" and scratch the painted part. Just make it easier on yourself by stripping the whole wheel, polish the section that you're wanting done, and then mask the polished part off and repaint the unpolished part of the wheel.

Only thing I'd change about your polishing procedure is the grit lineup:

120
220
320
400 wet
600 wet
1000 wet
1500 wet
2000 wet
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Old Apr 29, 2006 | 03:04 PM
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Then what polish should I use? I may just go ahead and fully polish my wheels, do the whole thing, then see if I want to paint the rest black. Can you clear over polished wheels so you don't have to keep polishing them?
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Old Apr 29, 2006 | 06:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Sgt. Spuds
Then what polish should I use? I may just go ahead and fully polish my wheels, do the whole thing, then see if I want to paint the rest black. Can you clear over polished wheels so you don't have to keep polishing them?
Since you'll be at a 2,000 grit finish, you could probably get it done with some Mother's Billet polish or some Flitz or Neverdull, it's going to take longer though. If it were me, I'd get some black and white buffing compounds, and use a couple of these buffs:
http://www.caswellplating.com/buffs/facer.htm

The black compound will take out the remaining sanding scratches almost instantly, and the white will make it bling. You can order them from the same site I posted a link for the buffs...
http://www.caswellplating.com/buffs/buffing.htm
...or you can get them at just about any hardware store. The stuff I've gotten from Lowe's in the past comes in little 5" tubes and is made by a company called Mibro. Just be sure to use only one type of compound on each buff. You can get rid of excess compound residue by spraying the wheels down with brake cleaner, letting it soak for a few minutes, then hosing it off. It helps if you do this in between switching from the black compound to the white as well.

The wheels can be clearcoated, but forget about off the shelf rattle can paint. Not only will it make the finish on the wheels ALOT duller, most of those paints aren't formulated to meet OEM paint standards, which means you can expect them to start flaking and peeling in a relatively short period of time. If you wanted to go that route, I'd either have them clear powder coated professionally (better), or get some Zoopseal (best).
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