Bogarts=Sweetness
Bogarts=Sweetness Just got my Bolted RT's,the smile is plastered on my face.They are amazing looking,I dont have pics at the momnent will and try and get some asap.I want to thank Steve at SJM for excellent customer service.
You're quite welcome. Glad that you're satisfied with the results. I'm sure when you opened up the box, your thoughts were probably "man these look even more amazing in person".
So do you think that the guys that compare these to economy wheels like prostars is really a comparison?
So do you think that the guys that compare these to economy wheels like prostars is really a comparison?
Originally Posted by SJM Manufacturing Inc
So do you think that the guys that compare these to economy wheels like prostars is really a comparison?
Send me a set and I'll give you my opinion
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The pics you see posted really don't do the wheels justice. In person, they look so much better. It will give your car a new look. Be sure to post pics when you get them mounted.
Steve, what type of cloth (100% cotton, microfiber, etc.) do you recommend to polish the wheels with?
Steve, what type of cloth (100% cotton, microfiber, etc.) do you recommend to polish the wheels with?
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Verdad Gallardo Pics don't do them justice. Like I mention in my posts, I scratch my head everytime I see someone comparing an economy wheel like a prostar/draglite to our wheels...there are night and day differences, different material, completely different polish and finish as well as weight and design.
The cloth that you use...whichever you prefer...some will swear by one over the other...lol personally a soft cotton cloth works very well. Don't hit the tires with it, don't drop them on the ground and re-use it, make sure the wheel is clean before you start buffing it. Clean the wheels with a constant stream of water and use a lubricant (soap) to avoid a lot of scratches to start off the bat.
Typically the scratches that you put in the wheels will be the result of you initially cleaning the wheel removing the initial dirt and debris...not so much the cause of what cloth you use.
You can also use a filler product when all is said and done...something like 3m hand glaze works well. Just remember every time you clean the wheels, depending on the soap used, wax is removed so re-wax the wheels when you’re done. (you did wax the wheels to start with right...check out our FAQ section for some simple tips for care, maintenance as well as torque specs
If your wheels every get bad enough or your unhappy with how you maintained them, you can always call me or e-mail me and I will give setup a return to re-polish your wheels.
The cloth that you use...whichever you prefer...some will swear by one over the other...lol personally a soft cotton cloth works very well. Don't hit the tires with it, don't drop them on the ground and re-use it, make sure the wheel is clean before you start buffing it. Clean the wheels with a constant stream of water and use a lubricant (soap) to avoid a lot of scratches to start off the bat.
Typically the scratches that you put in the wheels will be the result of you initially cleaning the wheel removing the initial dirt and debris...not so much the cause of what cloth you use.
You can also use a filler product when all is said and done...something like 3m hand glaze works well. Just remember every time you clean the wheels, depending on the soap used, wax is removed so re-wax the wheels when you’re done. (you did wax the wheels to start with right...check out our FAQ section for some simple tips for care, maintenance as well as torque specs
If your wheels every get bad enough or your unhappy with how you maintained them, you can always call me or e-mail me and I will give setup a return to re-polish your wheels.
Originally Posted by JDP
01 red ws6 said he will pay for my set also, so you can send me a set too.
we need some pics damnit
we need some pics damnit
I did?
Originally Posted by SJM Manufacturing Inc
Sure I'll be glad to send you a set. Call me first thing in the morning with your prefered method of payment so we can get these shipped out to you as fast as possible.
well until I get some cash together I guess just put them on my tab
I have a question about the wheel fitment. I saw someone had a set of bogarts up for sale but they said that you would still need to grind the calipers a little to get them to fit... Is that really needed? I thought since they were custom made that they would fit fine with stock brakes
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From: Albuquerque NM - The Land of 8000ft DA
I have a question about the wheel fitment. I saw someone had a set of bogarts up for sale but they said that you would still need to grind the calipers a little to get them to fit... Is that really needed? I thought since they were custom made that they would fit fine with stock brakes
I still haven't had a chance to take some real pics but this is all I have for now.
I was VERY happy with my wheels and the customer service Steve provided. Wouldn't hesitate to do buisness again and I plan to.
Just to clarify regarding clearance needed for the calipers. We have them designed for STOCK OEM components. Almost every F-body setup (LS1 design) I’ve worked with, we never had to touch a thing, though on occasion, I do see some have to use a hand file to clean up a spot. Keep in mind, when someone changes to different pads, or different rotors, this can change clearances needed slightly (even though they may be considered an OEM replacement).
That being said, SOME still have to slightly clearance a spot or two even on OEM components....as mentioned above, typically a hand file can be used, it is so slight. Why does this occur sometimes with the stock parts? Well the calipers are cast, sometimes there is a protrusion in the casting i.e. casting line or protruding nipple etc.
Depending on the run, some calipers are thicker then others. I could make it so that one would definitely never have to even use a hand file in a spot or two BUT there is a fine line of doing this then having other issues that are much worse i.e. wheels not tucking best and wheels weighing more.
That being said, SOME still have to slightly clearance a spot or two even on OEM components....as mentioned above, typically a hand file can be used, it is so slight. Why does this occur sometimes with the stock parts? Well the calipers are cast, sometimes there is a protrusion in the casting i.e. casting line or protruding nipple etc.
Depending on the run, some calipers are thicker then others. I could make it so that one would definitely never have to even use a hand file in a spot or two BUT there is a fine line of doing this then having other issues that are much worse i.e. wheels not tucking best and wheels weighing more.
Originally Posted by SJM Manufacturing Inc
Just to clarify regarding clearance needed for the calipers. We have them designed for STOCK OEM components. Almost every F-body setup (LS1 design) I’ve worked with, we never had to touch a thing, though on occasion, I do see some have to use a hand file to clean up a spot. Keep in mind, when someone changes to different pads, or different rotors, this can change clearances needed slightly (even though they may be considered an OEM replacement).
That being said, SOME still have to slightly clearance a spot or two even on OEM components....as mentioned above, typically a hand file can be used, it is so slight. Why does this occur sometimes with the stock parts? Well the calipers are cast, sometimes there is a protrusion in the casting i.e. casting line or protruding nipple etc.
Depending on the run, some calipers are thicker then others. I could make it so that one would definitely never have to even use a hand file in a spot or two BUT there is a fine line of doing this then having other issues that are much worse i.e. wheels not tucking best and wheels weighing more.
That being said, SOME still have to slightly clearance a spot or two even on OEM components....as mentioned above, typically a hand file can be used, it is so slight. Why does this occur sometimes with the stock parts? Well the calipers are cast, sometimes there is a protrusion in the casting i.e. casting line or protruding nipple etc.
Depending on the run, some calipers are thicker then others. I could make it so that one would definitely never have to even use a hand file in a spot or two BUT there is a fine line of doing this then having other issues that are much worse i.e. wheels not tucking best and wheels weighing more.
I did design them to be a direct fitment for the F-body...99% of the folks just bolt them on the car and go...for me to change the wheel to meet the other 1% of the guys when just a hand file may be necessary, I opted to keep it to the design as set forth.
This is the LS1 car that has that 1%. It really is a very small % of guys...and such an easy fix. It does not effect the structure of the calipers thus really a moot point. If the stock calipers were machined rather cast, tolorances wouldn't be so poor.
The LT1 guys, I don't believe I've ever heard of an issue (the LT1 designs are different then the LS1 designs. We can take an LS1 wheel and fit it on both LT1 or LS1's but not the opposite)
When I see some of those other guys grinding to the extent in their pictures to get other wheels to fit, I'm surprized they feel safe with that much material removed. Some folks have damaged their calipers from having to grind so much as well as some have cracked them due to comprimising the caliper. I'd strongly feel the wheels I've designed for the F-body is truly the BEST solution for drag racing.
Though I'd like to think everyone should have our Bogarts, obviously it isn't in everyone's budget. I think some of the economy wheels may appear to others as a better deal, but what they are giving up regarding safety, aggrevation, heavier wheels and not near the quality...to me it just isn't worth it for those economy setups. Just from an appearance standpoint, wheels make the car, why skimp on something that you and everyone else notices. When you see our wheels in person on a car, the car stands out from all others...it typically gets the most attention.
This is the LS1 car that has that 1%. It really is a very small % of guys...and such an easy fix. It does not effect the structure of the calipers thus really a moot point. If the stock calipers were machined rather cast, tolorances wouldn't be so poor.
The LT1 guys, I don't believe I've ever heard of an issue (the LT1 designs are different then the LS1 designs. We can take an LS1 wheel and fit it on both LT1 or LS1's but not the opposite)
When I see some of those other guys grinding to the extent in their pictures to get other wheels to fit, I'm surprized they feel safe with that much material removed. Some folks have damaged their calipers from having to grind so much as well as some have cracked them due to comprimising the caliper. I'd strongly feel the wheels I've designed for the F-body is truly the BEST solution for drag racing.
Though I'd like to think everyone should have our Bogarts, obviously it isn't in everyone's budget. I think some of the economy wheels may appear to others as a better deal, but what they are giving up regarding safety, aggrevation, heavier wheels and not near the quality...to me it just isn't worth it for those economy setups. Just from an appearance standpoint, wheels make the car, why skimp on something that you and everyone else notices. When you see our wheels in person on a car, the car stands out from all others...it typically gets the most attention.
Last edited by SJM Manufacturing Inc; Jul 1, 2006 at 12:15 AM.
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iTrader: (20)
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From: Albuquerque NM - The Land of 8000ft DA
You brought up a good point Steve.
The pads and rotors on my car aren't stock. I totally forgot about that.
No biggie, drag brakes will be going on soon enough
Frank
The pads and rotors on my car aren't stock. I totally forgot about that.
No biggie, drag brakes will be going on soon enough
Frank