Remote Start Question
#1
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From: Garland, TX/Jacksonville, FL
Remote Start Question
I did a few searches and saw the idea of what I'm looking for kicked around a few times. My question. Is there a way to install a remote start using to the factory remote? Or if I get a new remote from the dealer with the option included (I.E. Impala, Malibu, etc) does that work as well? My goal is the keep the factory system, but with a remote start upgrade. Sure there are aftermarket kits out there, but I can't stand the annoying chirp every time I go to my car. I have read where doing the progressive lock bypass allows for an additional usage of the remote as well.
#2
You could use the "extra channel" created by the progressive door lock mod but that creates several problems. The biggest one is that you car will be unlocked when you use the remote start (first press unlocks car, second press triggers remote start). Another problem is that the same "extra channel" pulse is generated when you press the inside door unlock button. You wouldn't want your remote starter activated accidentally by someone pressing the unlock button (although you can work around this with a relay and some creative wiring).
You can't use a remote from a car that has factory remote start because your BCM won't recognize the additional signal.
Another possiblility is to connect the remote start to the horn output at the BCM. That way you could press the lock button on the remote twice to trigger the remote start (the lock confirmation honks the horn). You'd have to figure some way to prevent the alarm from triggering the remote start if someone opened a door without disabling the alarm first (alarm goes, horn honks, car starts).
You can't use a remote from a car that has factory remote start because your BCM won't recognize the additional signal.
Another possiblility is to connect the remote start to the horn output at the BCM. That way you could press the lock button on the remote twice to trigger the remote start (the lock confirmation honks the horn). You'd have to figure some way to prevent the alarm from triggering the remote start if someone opened a door without disabling the alarm first (alarm goes, horn honks, car starts).
#4
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From: Garland, TX/Jacksonville, FL
Wow..this is going to be more work than I intended if I keep the factory system. What about the hatch button? Would the same pulse be triggered by someone using the button underneath the dash? Also I have seen remote start set ups sold at the dealer. Would the BCM still not recognize a GM remote start module or does the same still apply with your previous statement. Thanks.
#5
You could use the hatch release button but the dash switch generates the same pulse so you would probably want to disconnect that switch and just use your key to open the hatch.
I know that GM markets accessory remote start kits for some models but I haven't seen one that is designed to work with f-bodies.
EDIT: Actually, you could rewire the dash switch to control the hatch release relay directly rather than going through the BCM. That way you could use the pulse from the key fob hatch button for remote start and still have the inside switch for hatch release.
I know that GM markets accessory remote start kits for some models but I haven't seen one that is designed to work with f-bodies.
EDIT: Actually, you could rewire the dash switch to control the hatch release relay directly rather than going through the BCM. That way you could use the pulse from the key fob hatch button for remote start and still have the inside switch for hatch release.
Last edited by WhiteBird00; 12-30-2008 at 12:36 PM.
#6
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From: Garland, TX/Jacksonville, FL
You could use the hatch release button but the dash switch generates the same pulse so you would probably want to disconnect that switch and just use your key to open the hatch.
I know that GM markets accessory remote start kits for some models but I haven't seen one that is designed to work with f-bodies.
EDIT: Actually, you could rewire the dash switch to control the hatch release relay directly rather than going through the BCM. That way you could use the pulse from the key fob hatch button for remote start and still have the inside switch for hatch release.
I know that GM markets accessory remote start kits for some models but I haven't seen one that is designed to work with f-bodies.
EDIT: Actually, you could rewire the dash switch to control the hatch release relay directly rather than going through the BCM. That way you could use the pulse from the key fob hatch button for remote start and still have the inside switch for hatch release.
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#8
Here is the hatch release schematic:
You want to cut the brown wire in position D4 of the 32-pin blue connector at the BCM and use the end that comes from the BCM as your source for the trigger pulse for the remote start. There are two brown wires in the same row on that connector - you want the one that is more toward the center (4th pin position). The other one is in the second last pin position on the same row and has parking light power. You can confirm using a test light or multimeter. The other end of the cut brown wire should be connected to a constant (battery) power supply so that it can power the hatch release relay coil. This is a low current application so use a small fuse - no more than 3 amp.
You will find the hatch release relay under the left side of the dash near the steering column (item #2):
The relay has four wires: brown, tan with white, orange, and black with white. The brown and tan with white wires are the relay coil wires. You took care of the brown wire in the previous step so all you have to do is connect the dash switch to the tan with white wire. The switch has a black with white wire for input and a black wire for output to ground. Cut the black with white wire near the switch and cut the tan with white wire near the relay. Connect the switch end of the black with white wire to the relay end of the tan with white wire. Tape up the leftover cut ends of the wires to prevent shorts.
Now the dash switch should release the hatch but the hatch release button on the remote won't - it now provides a pulse to activate the remote start when you press it twice.
You want to cut the brown wire in position D4 of the 32-pin blue connector at the BCM and use the end that comes from the BCM as your source for the trigger pulse for the remote start. There are two brown wires in the same row on that connector - you want the one that is more toward the center (4th pin position). The other one is in the second last pin position on the same row and has parking light power. You can confirm using a test light or multimeter. The other end of the cut brown wire should be connected to a constant (battery) power supply so that it can power the hatch release relay coil. This is a low current application so use a small fuse - no more than 3 amp.
You will find the hatch release relay under the left side of the dash near the steering column (item #2):
The relay has four wires: brown, tan with white, orange, and black with white. The brown and tan with white wires are the relay coil wires. You took care of the brown wire in the previous step so all you have to do is connect the dash switch to the tan with white wire. The switch has a black with white wire for input and a black wire for output to ground. Cut the black with white wire near the switch and cut the tan with white wire near the relay. Connect the switch end of the black with white wire to the relay end of the tan with white wire. Tape up the leftover cut ends of the wires to prevent shorts.
Now the dash switch should release the hatch but the hatch release button on the remote won't - it now provides a pulse to activate the remote start when you press it twice.
#10
WHITEBIRD, you are a genius! i'm glad you live in Jax, so if i ever need any help i will def throw some beers your way if you dont mind helping! i want to do the antenna in the dash and the regular antenna as a cb antenna like you did!
#12
now just figure how to make my lt1 remote work from more than 10 feet and ill be down to do this on a lt1 car...
but the thing with remote starts dont they have to have a timer isnt the pulse too short that triggers the hatch/locks ect
but the thing with remote starts dont they have to have a timer isnt the pulse too short that triggers the hatch/locks ect
Last edited by daniel6718; 12-31-2008 at 07:58 PM.
#13
Most remote start systems require only a short pulse to activate. They then start the car and run either until someone gets in and steps on the brake or turns on the ignition with the key, or else they run for a predetermined length of time.
#14
buy a unit that is an add-on remote start unit. test for a wire that pulses negative when you hit the lock button on your factory key fob. connect this wire to the negative activation input signal of the remote start. after install is complete you should be able to go into the programming functions and the change the activation pulse from one pulse (most default settings) to three(average option)..Bingo-Bango you're done with the add-on remote start installation! oh, and if you've got an M6, make sure that you do that clutch bypass too!
#17
#18
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From: Garland, TX/Jacksonville, FL
buy a unit that is an add-on remote start unit. test for a wire that pulses negative when you hit the lock button on your factory key fob. connect this wire to the negative activation input signal of the remote start. after install is complete you should be able to go into the programming functions and the change the activation pulse from one pulse (most default settings) to three(average option)..Bingo-Bango you're done with the add-on remote start installation! oh, and if you've got an M6, make sure that you do that clutch bypass too!
#19