VATS question, help needed
VATS question, help needed I have already done the VATS bypass and had it disabled in the PCM. But the VATS system still keeps me from starting the car intermittently, usually several times in a row. Sometimes the light will flash and I will have to move the steering column up and down while turning the key for it to start. Other times it will be the solid light that everyone is used to. Also, the light comes on while I am driving for several minutes after startup.
I'm not sure that it is the ignition lock cylinder, but I just wanted to confirm this before I take it to the shop. Any suggestions will be very appreciated.
Thanks
I'm not sure that it is the ignition lock cylinder, but I just wanted to confirm this before I take it to the shop. Any suggestions will be very appreciated.
Thanks
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 11,328
Likes: 346
From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
If you have done the VATS bypass correctly, the ignition cylinder is not in the circuit at all. You could be turning the ignition on with a screwdriver for all it cares. I would double check you bypass wiring - make sure nothing is loose and that it is all well insulated.
So you think the security light coming on while driving has to do with the bypass making a bad connection? I may just have a mechanic remove the bypass and replace the lock cylinder so I don't have a bunch of resistors rigged up under my dash
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 11,328
Likes: 346
From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
The ONLY cause of the security light in the instrument cluster (not the alarm LED on top of the dash) coming on is a problem with the VATS system. If the light is on steady then the BCM is reading resistance that doesn't match its stored value. If the light is flashing then the BCM is reading an open circuit (infinite resistance) indicating that the key has no resistor pellet or the wires are broken somewhere.
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 1,378
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From: Atlanta, GA Ft. Walton Beach, FL
Vats I was told by a GM mechanic that changing a ignition switch would also require changing something else can't exactly remember what else he was referring to just remeber he wanted around $500. to change ignition switch.
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 11,328
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From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
The ignition cylinder is where you get into the possibility of needing a new ignition key which could lead to a new BCM to match the resistor pellet. But that's only necessary for those who don't think about what they're doing. The only way an ignition cylinder would come with a key is if it's used. A new cylinder comes ready to be matched to the existing key (insert the existing key and grind the popup tabs down to the surface of the cylinder). But even if you get a used cylinder, you can still measure the resistance of the original key pellet, get a matching key blank, and cut the blank to match the cuts of the key that came with the cylinder. In any case, no new BCM would be required.
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That mechanic wasn't thinking clearly or was trying to sell you something. He was probably talking about changing the ignition cylinder - not the ignition switch. The ignition switch is just an electrical switch at the lower end of the steering column and it can be replaced without affecting anything else.
The ignition cylinder is where you get into the possibility of needing a new ignition key which could lead to a new BCM to match the resistor pellet. But that's only necessary for those who don't think about what they're doing. The only way an ignition cylinder would come with a key is if it's used. A new cylinder comes ready to be matched to the existing key (insert the existing key and grind the popup tabs down to the surface of the cylinder). But even if you get a used cylinder, you can still measure the resistance of the original key pellet, get a matching key blank, and cut the blank to match the cuts of the key that came with the cylinder. In any case, no new BCM would be required.
The ignition cylinder is where you get into the possibility of needing a new ignition key which could lead to a new BCM to match the resistor pellet. But that's only necessary for those who don't think about what they're doing. The only way an ignition cylinder would come with a key is if it's used. A new cylinder comes ready to be matched to the existing key (insert the existing key and grind the popup tabs down to the surface of the cylinder). But even if you get a used cylinder, you can still measure the resistance of the original key pellet, get a matching key blank, and cut the blank to match the cuts of the key that came with the cylinder. In any case, no new BCM would be required.
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 11,328
Likes: 346
From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
What you said makes perfect sense, but he said it was making intermittent contact and that's why he needed to replace it. He only charged me $130 to make the repair. I haven't had a no-start condition since that day, and I don't get the security light while driving anymore.
i had mine bypassed, and now only when its freezing outside i'll get the solid security light. followed by a nostart situation. it almost always comes back and lets me fire it up, but this morning its not letting me!!
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 11,328
Likes: 346
From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
Sounds like the resistors used in the bypass are marginal. You might try taking a hair dryer to the area around the steering column behind the knee panel to see if warming it up brings the bypass back online. Then you can look into the resistor problem when you get a chance and it's warmer out.
^^thanks! i eventually got her working by rocking the tilt back and forth and then hitting again after a couple minutes passed. Im gonna try and find some better resistors in the mean time for sho.
Just wanted to let everyone know that the fix has worked fine for I guess 3 weeks now, but I am starting to get the security light illuminating the entire time I am driving. I've never had a no-start condition so I guess it's not a big problem.
I guess you were right all along WhiteBird00, I tried to start it today and the car alarm will not stop going off, and the car will not start period. Even when I open my unlocked door the alarm will start again and run for 2 minutes or so. Any ideas appreciated 