Cruise control not working
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Cruise control not working So I went on vacation for two weeks, came back and the car starts no problem, runs like a dream and is exactly what I left. However, I work so close to home that I don't use the highway and can't remember in the past month that I've used the cruise. Well Saturday I made a drive attempted to engage it and just coasted. What could this be attributed to and how do I troubleshoot this one? Any help would be appreciated.
I'm actually having the same problem at the moment. It WAS throwing a C0161 (ABS/TCS Brake Switch Circuit Malfunction) until just a few mins ago. I had replaced all the bulbs with LEDs along with an LED flasher.
Apparently, replacing the brake bulbs with LEDs caused it to throw the error. I just put the stock bulbs back into the rear. I'm suspecting (hoping) this will free up the cruise control problem; I'll find out in the morning. I'm still seeing odd behavior back there, though. Both the bulbs light up on one side on only one on the other when the parking lights are on. Both bulbs on both sides flash though.
Anyway, if you've put LED's in, maybe take a look there. I'm sure there's someplace to tuck a resistor inline and make the problem go away if that;s the cause.
Peace...
Apparently, replacing the brake bulbs with LEDs caused it to throw the error. I just put the stock bulbs back into the rear. I'm suspecting (hoping) this will free up the cruise control problem; I'll find out in the morning. I'm still seeing odd behavior back there, though. Both the bulbs light up on one side on only one on the other when the parking lights are on. Both bulbs on both sides flash though.
Anyway, if you've put LED's in, maybe take a look there. I'm sure there's someplace to tuck a resistor inline and make the problem go away if that;s the cause.
Peace...
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If none of this works, just drive it for awhile. When I take my car out of storage every year, it takes about an hour (sometimes more) for the cruise t work. Maybe that's not normal, but it's been consistent for 3 years now.
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I do have LEDs in there actually. I dumped the flasher when I pulled it all out so I guess that I will have to get another before I can check that for sure. What size and where do you think I would put a resistor to cure this problem?
The flasher shouldn't have any effect (this is about the brake circuit), I'd keep your new flasher. I, too, am curious about what value resistor should be used and specifically where I should wire it.
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WhiteStallion...your problem is probably JUST the third brake light bulb.
All you need to do is measure the resistance of the original and of your LED, and then you will be some simple math away from the resistance value you will need to put in parallel with the LED bulb to make the car happy again.
You will need a high wattage (read large with a heat sink) resistor or it will most likely just burn though.
All you need to do is measure the resistance of the original and of your LED, and then you will be some simple math away from the resistance value you will need to put in parallel with the LED bulb to make the car happy again.
You will need a high wattage (read large with a heat sink) resistor or it will most likely just burn though.
Thanx, guys. mySStery, the predominant theory seems to be 6-8 ohms per bulb, 50watt (big). There are lots on eBay in the $10 neighborhood; Radio Shack may have some, but I'm not holding my breath 
That's next week's project for me.
That's next week's project for me.
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OK, I set the standard bulbs in the brake light sockets and I got my cruise back too. However there is a slight light difference between the LEDs and the filament style. Resistance levels must be the answer...
I had made the mistake of not doing enough research before buying LEDs. Someone had suggested superbrightleds.com so that's where I went; mistake. They sold me crappy unidirectional LEDs that were about as bright as a bic lighter and I wasn't very happy with them (especially in the front turn signals). Once I replaced them with tower style bulbs, the brightness was closer to the filament bulbs. The advantage of LEDs isn't brightness, it's temperature (the filament style bulbs melted the connectors in the front to the point where I had to replace them 2x) and "ignition" speed (full brightness quicker).
I don't know that they make LEDs that are as bright as the filament bulbs (if someone does, please post the vendor/part number).
I haven't gotten the resistors yet (it's been a busy week), but I'll let you know how it turns out.
I don't know that they make LEDs that are as bright as the filament bulbs (if someone does, please post the vendor/part number).
I haven't gotten the resistors yet (it's been a busy week), but I'll let you know how it turns out.
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So who did you end up going through for the tower style since I too went through superbright (sounds like you and I are kindred souls in this experience). My $25 super-duper bright white reverse light I can't even see through the back window
. As for now I am OK with the fact I have one slightly slower ignition since the punchline is that I got my cruise back.
. As for now I am OK with the fact I have one slightly slower ignition since the punchline is that I got my cruise back. 