Defroster switch...
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Defroster switch... Can you make the defroster for the rear hatch glass stay on longer? I don't know if something's wrong with it, but when I turn it on, I feel like it stays on for a minute and a 1/2 and then turns off (back glass isn't totally defrosted) and then I have to wait about 7-8 minutes before I can turn it back on. In this time frame that it won't turn back on, if I hit the rear defroster button, it just clicks, almost as if it's preventing itself from turning on to keep it from over heating or something. It's done this ever since I've had the car, but I wasn't the first owner so I'm not sure if this is normal or if there's an issue.
Thanks for any help.
Adam
Thanks for any help.
Adam
Last edited by Adam2001WS6; Oct 29, 2009 at 05:48 PM.
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From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
Replacing the circuit breaker (it's not a relay) in the dash fuse panel with a normal 30 amp fuse (or a new 30 amp circuit breaker if you want to spend the money) will fix the problem. The factory circuit breaker tends to overheat and break the circuit when it gets old. There is no need to replace any other parts.
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So just a regular 30 amp fuse will work as well? I know the original one is a circuit breaker. Mine has been crapping out lately after only about 30 seconds of being on and it gets VERY hot to the touch while the defroster is on.
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Replacing the circuit breaker (it's not a relay) in the dash fuse panel with a normal 30 amp fuse (or a new 30 amp circuit breaker if you want to spend the money) will fix the problem. The factory circuit breaker tends to overheat and break the circuit when it gets old. There is no need to replace any other parts.
Well, went and put a 30 amp fuse in there and it works beautiful. Apparently with the circuit breaker it gets old and jsut allows it to cycle for like 30 seconds. It went for 5 minutes and then I just gave up waiting for it to turn off. 
Joined: Nov 2003
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From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
No, the circuit breaker is in the fuse panel on the left end of the dash. It has two blade pins just like an ATO/ATC plastic fuse so you can replace it with a fuse of the same rating (30 amps).
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No, the factory circuit breaker works by breaking the circuit when too much current flows through it. The advantage is that when it cools, it reconnects the circuit so you don't have to replace it like an ordinary fuse. The problem is that the circuit breakers tend to overheat under normal load as they get older so they break the circuit even though there is nothing wrong. You can put in a new circuit breaker or a fuse but a circuit breaker costs more and will wear out again eventually.
Man I'm glad I'm not the only one having this retarded issue. I have been cussing this thing for the past 2yrs wondering why the hell it was kickin off so fast & wouldn't turn right back on if the window wasnt done yet.
No, the factory circuit breaker works by breaking the circuit when too much current flows through it. The advantage is that when it cools, it reconnects the circuit so you don't have to replace it like an ordinary fuse. The problem is that the circuit breakers tend to overheat under normal load as they get older so they break the circuit even though there is nothing wrong. You can put in a new circuit breaker or a fuse but a circuit breaker costs more and will wear out again eventually.
Joined: Nov 2003
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From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
BTW, as you mentioned, older cars had timer relays that were thermal like a thermostat - our cars have solid state electronic timer relays.
And, in case nobody has noticed, when the circuit breaker overheats and the defogger isn't working the driver's power seat is dead also. It works again when the breaker cools down.
replace the breaker with a fuse, as mentioned above, and say goodbye to the problem.
replace the breaker with a fuse, as mentioned above, and say goodbye to the problem.
Last edited by pjb; Oct 30, 2009 at 11:15 AM.