Monsoon + aftermarket HU and coax speakers, do I need to rewire?
03-18-2010, 10:58 AM
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Monsoon + aftermarket HU and coax speakers, do I need to rewire? My car is factory monsoon and right now I have an Alpine CDA-9853 HU and a set up subs run from that.
I want get new speakers to keep up with the bass.
I am looking at going with 4 JL Audio C2-650X Coax 6.5" Speakers
How do I make these work. I have no problem totally eliminating the speakers in the back, I just want to make sure I am getting a full signal to these speakers in the doors and in the sail panels.
What do I need to do to go from the components in the front to a standard coax?
How do I get full signal to the sail panels also as I heard they are filtered for mid only.
Thanks.
I want get new speakers to keep up with the bass.
I am looking at going with 4 JL Audio C2-650X Coax 6.5" Speakers
How do I make these work. I have no problem totally eliminating the speakers in the back, I just want to make sure I am getting a full signal to these speakers in the doors and in the sail panels.
What do I need to do to go from the components in the front to a standard coax?
How do I get full signal to the sail panels also as I heard they are filtered for mid only.
Thanks.
03-18-2010, 03:28 PM
#2
Why would you want to put coax in the doors when it's wired for components? Component speakers are ALWAYS better than any equivalent coaxial speakers.
You can get full-range signal to the sail panels by disconnecting the hatch speakers and running those wires forward to the sail panels.
You can get full-range signal to the sail panels by disconnecting the hatch speakers and running those wires forward to the sail panels.
03-20-2010, 09:01 AM
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Why would you want to put coax in the doors when it's wired for components? Component speakers are ALWAYS better than any equivalent coaxial speakers.
You can get full-range signal to the sail panels by disconnecting the hatch speakers and running those wires forward to the sail panels.
You can get full-range signal to the sail panels by disconnecting the hatch speakers and running those wires forward to the sail panels.
Those coax speakers are going to sound way better than the stock (and many other) component speakers. I know when comparing on the same speaker that a component is obviously better, but the coax version is $180 a pair which is already really really stretching my budget, and the component version is $250 a pair. I just can't spend that much.
03-20-2010, 03:24 PM
#5
because I am a college student without a ton of money.
Those coax speakers are going to sound way better than the stock (and many other) component speakers. I know when comparing on the same speaker that a component is obviously better, but the coax version is $180 a pair which is already really really stretching my budget, and the component version is $250 a pair. I just can't spend that much.
Those coax speakers are going to sound way better than the stock (and many other) component speakers. I know when comparing on the same speaker that a component is obviously better, but the coax version is $180 a pair which is already really really stretching my budget, and the component version is $250 a pair. I just can't spend that much.
03-21-2010, 01:29 PM
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ok. this still leaves the problem about the sail panel speakers. do I need to somehow rewire to get a full signal there?
Basically i also want to know if I should leave the monsoon amp in play or should I just rewire and use the signal from the headunit. will this hurt my sound or help it?
Run components in the front
Coax in the sail panels
nothing in the rear.
Basically i also want to know if I should leave the monsoon amp in play or should I just rewire and use the signal from the headunit. will this hurt my sound or help it?
Run components in the front
Coax in the sail panels
nothing in the rear.
Last edited by ThumperNC24; 03-21-2010 at 01:42 PM.
03-21-2010, 07:05 PM
#7
Why not get one of the speaker replacement packages from Kee Audio? You can replace the door speakers with components and the sail panels with mid-bass (subs) without needing any rewiring and for a reasonable cost.
If you really want full range sound coming from behind you (not the best idea for sound stage), you can pull the hatch speaker wiring forward as I already suggested. Leave the Monsoon amp unless you plan to add your own aftermarket amp. It may not be very powerful but it's much better than head unit power alone.
If you really want full range sound coming from behind you (not the best idea for sound stage), you can pull the hatch speaker wiring forward as I already suggested. Leave the Monsoon amp unless you plan to add your own aftermarket amp. It may not be very powerful but it's much better than head unit power alone.
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03-21-2010, 09:59 PM
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I mean, i am open to the idea of doing something different. I just know that JL is a very nice brand that i have had great experiences with in the past. I also have friends that have JL speakers and they sound AMAZING. I want something on that level.
The problem right now is that I am not getting enough sound out of my high and mids to keep up with the bass from the subs.
I am nervous about buying a brand like CDT which I have never heard of.
Also made more nervous by the fact that some of it is packaged with bazooka, and I know that stuff is ****.
The problem right now is that I am not getting enough sound out of my high and mids to keep up with the bass from the subs.
I am nervous about buying a brand like CDT which I have never heard of.
Also made more nervous by the fact that some of it is packaged with bazooka, and I know that stuff is ****.
03-22-2010, 10:51 AM
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how will they compare to the JLs I was thinking about?
Also, I am hearing all kinds of this and that about using the factory crossover in the front being a bad idea.
If I do go with something from KEE it would be the Premium audio package...
I'll leave the monsoon amp unless I add an aftermarket setup later...
Also, I am hearing all kinds of this and that about using the factory crossover in the front being a bad idea.
If I do go with something from KEE it would be the Premium audio package...
I'll leave the monsoon amp unless I add an aftermarket setup later...
03-22-2010, 10:56 AM
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so general consensus here is to go with the premium package from KEE and it will totally transform my mids and highs?
CDT Components
CDT Midbass drivers
CDT rear coax
does kee provide installation gear?
CDT Components
CDT Midbass drivers
CDT rear coax
does kee provide installation gear?
03-24-2010, 11:19 AM
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so I should just get
CDT CL-E61CV 6.5" Components for the doors - $199.99
CDT CL-6E 6.5" midwoofer for the rear seat area $69.99
or is it worth upping to CL-6 (EF-6) 6.5" for $129.99
What about the Bazooka 6.5 DVC Mid Driver for $109.99. I have heard everything bazooka is total ****, but I have never seen these or anything this 'high end' from bazooka and they seem to be very popular.
I'd be disconnecting the hatch speakers, currently still stock monsoon (my subs are on the shelf in the back and seem to distort / eliminate almost all sound coming from those anyway)
I pulled off the sail panel covers on my car today to discover a set of Sony coax speakers that move like crazy but barely put out any sound (no treble, obviously)
I assume this CDT system be significantly better than the crap sony speakers I have right now, correct?
I know some people commented that CDT makes good speakers, but I was hoping for a little more info and direct comparison to the JL audio sets I was loooking at. Both companies make a wide line of speakers varying greatly in price. Would those CDT components be better than the JL C2 series components I was looking at for $249.99? What about the JL TR series components that are only $180?
Will I be able to get enough highs from just the front two speakers?
kee audio care to chime in?
Also as I said before I am running a Alpine CDA-9853 HU, subs are two JL Audio 12W1v2 bridged for 380W RMS @ 4ohm from a pioneer amp.
CDT CL-E61CV 6.5" Components for the doors - $199.99
CDT CL-6E 6.5" midwoofer for the rear seat area $69.99
or is it worth upping to CL-6 (EF-6) 6.5" for $129.99
What about the Bazooka 6.5 DVC Mid Driver for $109.99. I have heard everything bazooka is total ****, but I have never seen these or anything this 'high end' from bazooka and they seem to be very popular.
I'd be disconnecting the hatch speakers, currently still stock monsoon (my subs are on the shelf in the back and seem to distort / eliminate almost all sound coming from those anyway)
I pulled off the sail panel covers on my car today to discover a set of Sony coax speakers that move like crazy but barely put out any sound (no treble, obviously)
I assume this CDT system be significantly better than the crap sony speakers I have right now, correct?
I know some people commented that CDT makes good speakers, but I was hoping for a little more info and direct comparison to the JL audio sets I was loooking at. Both companies make a wide line of speakers varying greatly in price. Would those CDT components be better than the JL C2 series components I was looking at for $249.99? What about the JL TR series components that are only $180?
Will I be able to get enough highs from just the front two speakers?
kee audio care to chime in?
Also as I said before I am running a Alpine CDA-9853 HU, subs are two JL Audio 12W1v2 bridged for 380W RMS @ 4ohm from a pioneer amp.
Last edited by ThumperNC24; 03-24-2010 at 11:24 AM.
03-24-2010, 11:29 AM
#15
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Yes, CDT will walk all over Sony speakers. The Bazookas are junk but they are much less junky than stock at least. TBH, I wouldn't pay that much for anything made by them.
03-24-2010, 12:47 PM
#16
I use a Polk Component set in my doors (polk momo 6500 components I got for free) and Dayton 7" midwoofer in the sail panels... sounds REALLY good...
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(non-sponsor link removed) is your friend.
Last edited by WhiteBird00; 03-24-2010 at 01:12 PM.
03-25-2010, 12:13 PM
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The link was probably to Parts Express. I have a pair of Dayton RS180s as well though I'm not using them at the moment. I wanted to use them in my Camaro doors (not sails - didn't try that) but they did not fit.
03-26-2010, 12:06 AM
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Click Special Deals on the Kee Audio website. CDT CL-E61CV w/ CL-E6NEO Midbass. $229. I just upgraded to this, and it was a vast improvement over stock. The mid bass, and highs are clear as a whistle.
The only thing missing from this setup are the true low thump that you get from subs, which you already have covered. Also running the after market HU will improve these speakers that much more.
The only thing missing from this setup are the true low thump that you get from subs, which you already have covered. Also running the after market HU will improve these speakers that much more.
