Alpine type r vs type s.....general system help
Alpine type r vs type s.....general system help im going to do a stero in my ls mustang build. i need two 6x9 and two 6.5"
i was looking in to the alpine type r and type s. They would be powered off the headunit. im really not a audio smart person but i do know i want some good sound. im looking to spend aprox $200 at the max for the speakers, they have good reviews on the audio web sites. what ya'll think? any thing better?
im thinking about a single 10" sub later on. powered by mono ch amp.
the headunit is gotta be simple, radio, cd and aux jack. i found a pioneer that has thoes three things its $70 bucks. but do more expencive head units put out better sound? this one is simple and is all i need
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/Pioneer+...&skuId=1149632
i was looking in to the alpine type r and type s. They would be powered off the headunit. im really not a audio smart person but i do know i want some good sound. im looking to spend aprox $200 at the max for the speakers, they have good reviews on the audio web sites. what ya'll think? any thing better?
im thinking about a single 10" sub later on. powered by mono ch amp.
the headunit is gotta be simple, radio, cd and aux jack. i found a pioneer that has thoes three things its $70 bucks. but do more expencive head units put out better sound? this one is simple and is all i need
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/Pioneer+...&skuId=1149632
I like to keep all audio items the same brand and I 'd go with Type S.
My alpine speakers sounded much better with a cheap alpine headunit over my Sony.
I would go for a set of components (6.5s) and a set of 2way coaxial speakers(6.5s) over the 3way coaxial 6.9s.
It doesn't make sense to have 4 coaxial speakers without any tweeters 'cause you 'll miss out on the highs.
This is very close to your budget (bb prices) and later you can add a sub and amp for the deep bass.
My alpine speakers sounded much better with a cheap alpine headunit over my Sony.
I would go for a set of components (6.5s) and a set of 2way coaxial speakers(6.5s) over the 3way coaxial 6.9s.
It doesn't make sense to have 4 coaxial speakers without any tweeters 'cause you 'll miss out on the highs.
This is very close to your budget (bb prices) and later you can add a sub and amp for the deep bass.
Last edited by bad_408_vert; Nov 30, 2010 at 11:00 AM.
I like to keep all audio items the same brand and I 'd go with Type S.
My alpine speakers sounded much better with a cheap alpine headunit over my Sony.
I would go for a set of components (6.5s) and a set of 2way coaxial speakers(6.5s) over the 3way coaxial 6.9s.
It doesn't make sense to have 4 coaxial speakers without any tweeters 'cause you 'll miss out on the highs.
This is very close to your budget (bb prices) and later you can add a sub and amp for the deep bass.
My alpine speakers sounded much better with a cheap alpine headunit over my Sony.
I would go for a set of components (6.5s) and a set of 2way coaxial speakers(6.5s) over the 3way coaxial 6.9s.
It doesn't make sense to have 4 coaxial speakers without any tweeters 'cause you 'll miss out on the highs.
This is very close to your budget (bb prices) and later you can add a sub and amp for the deep bass.
I would not run a set of components off the HU. The HU won't produce enough power to properly power any set of components. All 2/3-way speakers either have 2 or 3 tweeters respectively. Personally, that's all you need is a couple pairs in your specific sizes. Both the Type S and Type R are decent speakers in your price range. But, I don't think the Type R will fit into your budget, if you're looking at $200 for both sets.
Yes a headunit wouldn't be enough to power a set of components and coaxial speakers, but it does leave room on table for upgrade if he decides to add an amp.
If he just gets 4 coaxial speakers and runs it off the headunit, then that is all hes left with as far as sound quality is concerned.
I suggested components and coaxial with a 10" sub because thats the set up I have and it sounds good.
If he just gets 4 coaxial speakers and runs it off the headunit, then that is all hes left with as far as sound quality is concerned.
I suggested components and coaxial with a 10" sub because thats the set up I have and it sounds good.
Just so you are aware and get the right sizes, the rear speakers are not 6x9" and will not fit if you try to use them there. The correct size is a 5x7"/6x8" speaker in the rear. I just put together a package like this for a customer with a fox body stang. I used JBL in this case though. I used the JBL P662S shallow mount 6.5" coaxials for the doors, JBL GTO8628 for the rear, and a set of JBL GTO328 in the dash. Total cost: $229.00
My only change I would make to that system would be to use a shallow mount 6.5" midbass driver in the door vs. a coaxial in that location which still works but gives more depth as it enhances the midbass more vs. 3 sets of tweeters in 3 sets of coaxials.
I used shallow mount 6.5" in the doors because it helped with mounting depth.
My only change I would make to that system would be to use a shallow mount 6.5" midbass driver in the door vs. a coaxial in that location which still works but gives more depth as it enhances the midbass more vs. 3 sets of tweeters in 3 sets of coaxials.
I used shallow mount 6.5" in the doors because it helped with mounting depth.
Yes a headunit wouldn't be enough to power a set of components and coaxial speakers, but it does leave room on table for upgrade if he decides to add an amp.
If he just gets 4 coaxial speakers and runs it off the headunit, then that is all hes left with as far as sound quality is concerned.
I suggested components and coaxial with a 10" sub because thats the set up I have and it sounds good.
If he just gets 4 coaxial speakers and runs it off the headunit, then that is all hes left with as far as sound quality is concerned.
I suggested components and coaxial with a 10" sub because thats the set up I have and it sounds good.
Personally, I would talk to Ian and have him set you up. The guy gives great deals, and has some great stuff for the price.
I owned a 88 Mustang hatchback as my first car and it was brand new. It was my first car and my first install. I know this is giving away my age a bit...lol. I tried putting a pair of 6x9" in the rear and they wouldn't fit. I didn't know much at the time. They were 5x7"/6x8" which are the same speaker...they have a special mounting provision that accommodates both sizes but it is the same speaker. These are correct for the rear.
I'm not sure how Ford split the frequencies in the factory harness but it does go to 3 pairs of speakers...the dash has 3.5", the doors are 6.5", and the rear are the 5x7".
Another option to consider is using a seperate component and putting the tweeter in the dash replacing the 3.5" and using the midbass in the door. That would sound pretty good as well. Although using a decent quality 3.5" coaxial in the dash and a midbass in the door is almost like having a 3-way component....almost.
I'm not sure how Ford split the frequencies in the factory harness but it does go to 3 pairs of speakers...the dash has 3.5", the doors are 6.5", and the rear are the 5x7".
Another option to consider is using a seperate component and putting the tweeter in the dash replacing the 3.5" and using the midbass in the door. That would sound pretty good as well. Although using a decent quality 3.5" coaxial in the dash and a midbass in the door is almost like having a 3-way component....almost.
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the cage goes threw the rear deck speaker holes. i was going to put the 6x9 in their own little box. i would like to be able to power the speakers off the headunit.
the sub will get a mono ch amp if it ever gets done.
i know the doors take a 6.5"
i was going 6x9 in the rear because their bigger.
all this 2 3 way coaxial, and component lingo is over my head the 2/3 way has the speaker and the little speakers in the center right? the component is the speaker and a seperate tweeter speaker.
and when i say im starting with nothing. i have no wires for any thing audio related what so ever. starting from 100% scratch
the sub will get a mono ch amp if it ever gets done.
i know the doors take a 6.5"
i was going 6x9 in the rear because their bigger.
all this 2 3 way coaxial, and component lingo is over my head the 2/3 way has the speaker and the little speakers in the center right? the component is the speaker and a seperate tweeter speaker.
and when i say im starting with nothing. i have no wires for any thing audio related what so ever. starting from 100% scratch
Ah, got ya!
Components are separate speakers...separate mid-bass and tweeter generally but there are 3-way sets that have a mid-bass, a smaller mid-range, and then a separate tweeter. Coaxials are the speakers that have the tweeter mounted to the speaker so you have the mid-bass and tweeter mounted together on the same speaker. These generally don't sound as good as a nice component set but can still do the job ok. You usually get better mid-bass response from a component type set up because the mid-bass is essentially like a small sub-woofer.
Components are separate speakers...separate mid-bass and tweeter generally but there are 3-way sets that have a mid-bass, a smaller mid-range, and then a separate tweeter. Coaxials are the speakers that have the tweeter mounted to the speaker so you have the mid-bass and tweeter mounted together on the same speaker. These generally don't sound as good as a nice component set but can still do the job ok. You usually get better mid-bass response from a component type set up because the mid-bass is essentially like a small sub-woofer.
You can do a set of CDT CL-61CV...the same ones I use in the F-Body packages for $169.00 shipped. Heck....I have a special going right now that has a nice set of CDT 6.5" components with CDT 6.5" rear coaxials for $149.00. These are not cheap speakers either...this is only for the holidays and is normally $219.00. That is a sick deal and would be fine off the HU.
I ran a set of CDT CL-6.25 components off the JVC AHD69 head unit which has amout the same wattage your talking about and it sounded awesome. I did this in a newer model Toyota Corolla recently and was VERY surprised when I heard how good it sounded. Very good bass...surprisingly good. Customer was heavy into drum and bass techno type music and it sounded great so I wouldn't hesitate.
You probably don't want to waste your time running components off of the HU. The wattage ratings they post for the HU's never seem to be accurate and you'll most likely end up being disappointed with the sound. Ideally you want your amps RMS power to be at least equal to the speakers RMS, if not above. 24 watts RMS is basically nothing. There are a bunch of good alpine amps on ebay and amazon that are relatively cheap and will make those speakers sound much better than any HU could.
and if i get a amp to power one sub and speakers ill need a 5ch amp right?
update. i think im going to say screw the rear speakers, sub and amp for now and just to a head unit and front door speakers. will that sound all right?
and sense im only going with two speakers could the head unit power a set of components, or should i just get some normal 2 or 3 ways
and sense im only going with two speakers could the head unit power a set of components, or should i just get some normal 2 or 3 ways
If you have the money, buy 2 12" Type Rs. They are very high quality, even if you buy them used. Go to craigslist and try to find a setup that comes with an amp and wiring. If you strike a good deal, go through with it. These are very nice subs, but require a lot of power to power them, as well as loud! These are extremely well made subs as well as everything else Alpine makes. Just do some research and you will find something you like eventually