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Old Jan 13, 2011 | 03:49 PM
  #1  
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From: Port Orchard, WA
Default Window question

I have an 02 T/A, and as some of you have done and the rest of you will do, I just replaced both window motors. I used the Autotrix fix on the passenger side, but ended up replacing the motor anyway.

1. The drivers' side window seems to raise on a tilt. It seems as if there is no support for the window at the front and the window seems to be pushed up only from the back. Has the window fallen off the track? I know it did when I replaced the motor initially, but I put it back on. What could be causing this and does anyone know a fix?

2. The passenger side... The window would inch up or down, indicating that the motor was wearing out. I replaced the motor and now the window will not respond at all. I hear the relays that are part of the Autotrix kit clicking, indicating that they are getting power, but the window does not budge. The idiot who helped me almost tore my door panel off however, causing some of the wires to come out of their terminals. I re-wired them, but to no effect. I will be taking everything apart again this weekend to find the issues, but if anyone has any insight, I would appreciate some guidance.

Thanks!
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Old Jan 14, 2011 | 08:41 AM
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What kind/brand of window motors did you use? What method did you use for the replacement? Did you remove the regulator or did you do the shbox method?

1) If this didn't happen before the replacement: a track may have come off or a roller may have popped off. With the window half way up, can you wiggle the glass or pull it up to straighten it out? Do you hear any noises when you do this?

2) Either a bum motor or something is binding up.

Depending on the motors/method, it will be easy to tell what the most likely issues are.
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Old Jan 14, 2011 | 03:18 PM
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For both motors, I went to autozone. On the drivers side, I can definitely move the window all around when its at half mast. I don't really hear any noises when. On the drivers side, I unbolted the bracket and all to remove the motor since it had been done that way before. On the passenger side, I did the shbox method to remove the motor. Whenever I take it all apart again, I'll move the passenger motor to the drivers side to see if it's the motor or the electrical connection.
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Old Jan 16, 2011 | 12:50 PM
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As it turns out, My passenger side problem was a wiring issue that was easy to fix. The driver's side, is another problem. The bolts that hold the bracket to the door have wiggled so much that they have messed up their holes in the door. So, my final question I have to fix my window is this: How can I reinforce the bolt holes in the door? Thank you.
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Old Jan 16, 2011 | 12:57 PM
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i did my driver door motor last year sit has been som time. i know that i drilled the fiberglass part to make it easier to get to the motor. for the worn holes could you drill them out a little and find a step spacer that would have the id be the stock bolt size and the od be the size of the new hole. just a thought. mcmaster carr or someone like that might have such a spacer.
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Old Jan 16, 2011 | 01:31 PM
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I see what you're saying. I will look into that tomorrow. Here's a picture of what I'm dealing with, I'm sorry it's blurry:
Attached Thumbnails Window question-screw.jpg  
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Old Jan 17, 2011 | 01:11 AM
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This is very very bad. Info here: https://ls1tech.com/forums/general-m...-included.html

After you do the plate fix, you should get those bolts out of the door. (They are chewing up the fiberglass.) The regulator is supposed to have steel mandrel, aluminum rivets, which grip the composite without digging in to it. The dealer sells these rivets under a special part number. Either way, you'll need an industrial size riveter for the job.
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Old Jan 17, 2011 | 11:18 AM
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Gotcha. The driver window was not done by me, which is why it is in bad shape and has bolts instead of the rivets. I see what they're talking about as far as attaching a metal plate to the door, but would a washer with a large surface area suffice?
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Old Jan 17, 2011 | 04:13 PM
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No. A washer won't give it lateral suppout. (in the direction of the tear) The full plate keeps the rivets all in proper alignment to each other, which allows the other holes to pick up some slack. If it still moves you can bond the plate to the door - which will hold perfectly.
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