I received the standard package from Kee on Monday and wanted to double check everything, as I rush installed it yesterday afternoon.

For the doors, 3M double sided tape to hold components in factory gold bracket, wires to stock blue harness, and install the speakers in the stock bucket with red wire being + and the black wire being -, common for the rest of the connections actually.

For the sail panels, it was a bitch to get them in there. I removed the washers from the factory bolts and bought a couple boxes of random speed nuts. I then drilled (2) of the mounting holes out for the narrower bolt pattern. All of the speed nuts that would hold themselves to the panel were too large. They would interfere with the frame of the sub and that would push them out and in return, push the head of the bolts in making them thread into the speed nuts diagonally. I guess I will find some narrower speed nuts and re-do that once I locate some. For the PS sail panel, I ended up using (2) screws and (2) speed nuts from the JVC hatch speakers to mount it. This was much better, but it is a much weaker assembly and easy to strip those out. I just connected each red wire to each positive and each black wire to each negative on the DVC sub.

For the hatch, I drilled and removed the stock rivets and removed the stock tweeters altogether. I only used the wiring from main hatch speaker for the JVC units in the hatch and left the tweeter wires un-hooked. On the DS I used all (4) speed nuts and screws and on the PS I used (2) speeds and screws.

The speakers sound much better but I definitely hear some distortion or rattling. It's hard to pinpoint with the cam loping and I haven't spent any time yet with just the key on listening to music. Either way, a buddy may give me an old 4 channel amp so I can replace the monsoon unit and I plan to buy a Kenwood KIV-700 whenever I sell my wheels/tires (already ordered HU Mount).

Whats the best way to utilize the 4 channel for the monsoon setup?

 

If it's distorted you need to either adjust the headunit settings or double check your wiring for the speakers. If it's rattling, welcome to the world of owning an fbody. It'll be hard to find/stop exactly what's rattling without taking the car apart and sound deadening the car.

And for the amp, just power the front two speakers and the sail panels.

 

Yea, I'm really not going to fool with the distortion/rattling and just keep the lower frequencies a bit above level. My plan is to install the new radio this weekend at which I will then remount some of the speakers (un-rig) and install some sound deadening material behind the pockets and re-wire the 2 subs, I had to use some ghetto extensions to get them working. Then I can fine tune the speakers with the new radio and if I have time, the new amp.

As far as the rattling goes, I have spent the last year and many trips to the stealership buying new trim pieces/hardware/clips to replace warped/broken ones that rattle. I have fixed about 95% of them and the rest I have at least isolated (DS door and PS front seat). We'll see after I tune everything with the new radio and remount/sound-deaden the speakers.

Do most people just put a small bit in the cavity for subs and on the inside of the outer door skin or what?

 

A different aftermarket headunit may help the speakers and will sound a lot better. After replacing the radio see if the problem still persists and go from there.

Assuming your talking about sound deadener? And where are you talking about, the door itself?

 

Thats the plan.

The cavity behind the sail panel subs, and the doors. I heard of people adding a bit here and there, just trying to figure out where that is.

 

For the sail panels you can pull the plastic part out and that's how you'd go about putting deadener behind the speakers. For the doors, you could put the deadener right behind the door panel, or try to get it onto the actual door skin behind where the window motors and such are, but that'll be the longer way of doing it.

 

Sounds like you have a handle on it. For deadening I would recommend sandwiching the deadener between the sail subs and the metal. Not behind the speaker. This will dampen the rattle better and also help secure them more because it can help hold those speed nuts in place better and keep them from moving. It's then energy the subs are generating that is rattling the metal they are mounted to. Not the metal behind the sub. This will also further enhance bass response.

 

Thanks, I will do that this weekend. I won't be able to install the head unit just yet due to the sale of my wheels falling through, but that definitely leaves more time open to test the deadening, proper speaker mounting, and re-wiring to give these speakers the best possible platform to operate on within the constraints of the stock Monsoon system. Then, I will test out the small replacement amp and hopefully be able to test again with the new head unit. I did download some free RTA analyzer software, but I would guess the tolerance would be anywhere between 15-25% using non-professional equipment (standard microphone, free software, etc.).