Battery relocation checklist
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From: Anchorage, ALASKA
Battery relocation checklist Im having to relocate the battery to the rear of my TA and am just checking I have everything right.
0 gauge from batt + to distribution block
0 or 2 gauge from starter + to distribution block
0 or 2 gauge from alt + to distribution block
0 gauge from batt - to chassis
original wire from starter - to chassis
original wire from alt - to chassis
Am I missing any thing?
0 gauge from batt + to distribution block
0 or 2 gauge from starter + to distribution block
0 or 2 gauge from alt + to distribution block
0 gauge from batt - to chassis
original wire from starter - to chassis
original wire from alt - to chassis
Am I missing any thing?
Yea, what your missing is the fact that the neither the starter nor the alternator have a negative cable...Its a case ground. You run a ground from the block to the chassis. 2 preferably. Also, don't forget, it can't hurt to upgrade the wire going to the fuse block on the passenger side since that will have to go to the distribution block as well.
Thread Starter
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From: Anchorage, ALASKA
Yea, what your missing is the fact that the neither the starter nor the alternator have a negative cable...Its a case ground. You run a ground from the block to the chassis. 2 preferably. Also, don't forget, it can't hurt to upgrade the wire going to the fuse block on the passenger side since that will have to go to the distribution block as well.
I ran a 2 gauge wire from the 3 positive where the old bat went, then just grounded out the battery in bacl to the body, has works over 3 years with a small motorcycle batter, a yuasa ytx24hl-bs.
BUT.... I recently decided to move it up fron since the battery only weighs 15lbs, I just got dobne relocating it back up fron and between the cable, bat box/hold down I removed 9 lbs. I figured if I wanted more weight i nthe back I would just run more fuel, which is also better for the fuel pump, some people run the tanks low when racing but this can be bad, I always run at least 1/2 tank.
So far I run 10.22 @ 132 with a stock fuel pump.
Also with all the extra battery cable the alt works a bit harder which can rob a slight amount of power...not much , but some. I have a .02 volt drop between my battery in the truck and the possitive post at the relay boxes. after I moved the battery up fron there was .000 drop between any connector in the car, thats whats going to make an alt. work less. When you get voltage drops( and you will with long wires) the alt have to put out more to do the same.
BUT.... I recently decided to move it up fron since the battery only weighs 15lbs, I just got dobne relocating it back up fron and between the cable, bat box/hold down I removed 9 lbs. I figured if I wanted more weight i nthe back I would just run more fuel, which is also better for the fuel pump, some people run the tanks low when racing but this can be bad, I always run at least 1/2 tank.
So far I run 10.22 @ 132 with a stock fuel pump.
Also with all the extra battery cable the alt works a bit harder which can rob a slight amount of power...not much , but some. I have a .02 volt drop between my battery in the truck and the possitive post at the relay boxes. after I moved the battery up fron there was .000 drop between any connector in the car, thats whats going to make an alt. work less. When you get voltage drops( and you will with long wires) the alt have to put out more to do the same.
Like I said...there is NO ground wire for the starter OR alternator. The alternator has a charge lead, and a red exciter wire; the starter has a positive lead and a purple wire going to the solenoid...
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Thread Starter
TECH Addict
iTrader: (16)
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 2,899
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From: Anchorage, ALASKA
I just wanted to thank everyone for helping me out with this. Im almost done with my relocation and everything is going much smoother than anticipated. Ill post some pics when I get close to being done.
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