XtremeDime

iTrader: (16)

Im having to relocate the battery to the rear of my TA and am just checking I have everything right.

0 gauge from batt + to distribution block
0 or 2 gauge from starter + to distribution block
0 or 2 gauge from alt + to distribution block

0 gauge from batt - to chassis
original wire from starter - to chassis
original wire from alt - to chassis

Am I missing any thing?

XtremeDime

iTrader: (16)

bump!

squee

iTrader: (16)

Yea, what your missing is the fact that the neither the starter nor the alternator have a negative cable...Its a case ground. You run a ground from the block to the chassis. 2 preferably. Also, don't forget, it can't hurt to upgrade the wire going to the fuse block on the passenger side since that will have to go to the distribution block as well.

XtremeDime

iTrader: (16)

Good call. I forgot the alternator doesnt have a ground but I remember the starter did, but I could be wrong. I totally forgot about the fuse boxes needing power lol

pentavolvo

4ga is plenty for alternator and prly for starter as well but 2 wont hurt.

silverz28camaro

iTrader: (20)

I ran a 2 gauge wire from the 3 positive where the old bat went, then just grounded out the battery in bacl to the body, has works over 3 years with a small motorcycle batter, a yuasa ytx24hl-bs.

BUT.... I recently decided to move it up fron since the battery only weighs 15lbs, I just got dobne relocating it back up fron and between the cable, bat box/hold down I removed 9 lbs. I figured if I wanted more weight i nthe back I would just run more fuel, which is also better for the fuel pump, some people run the tanks low when racing but this can be bad, I always run at least 1/2 tank.

So far I run 10.22 @ 132 with a stock fuel pump.

Also with all the extra battery cable the alt works a bit harder which can rob a slight amount of power...not much , but some. I have a .02 volt drop between my battery in the truck and the possitive post at the relay boxes. after I moved the battery up fron there was .000 drop between any connector in the car, thats whats going to make an alt. work less. When you get voltage drops( and you will with long wires) the alt have to put out more to do the same.

squee

iTrader: (16)

Like I said...there is NO ground wire for the starter OR alternator. The alternator has a charge lead, and a red exciter wire; the starter has a positive lead and a purple wire going to the solenoid...

XtremeDime

iTrader: (16)

I just wanted to thank everyone for helping me out with this. Im almost done with my relocation and everything is going much smoother than anticipated. Ill post some pics when I get close to being done.

squee

iTrader: (16)

You failed to mention it, but I hope your gonna be using a in-line fuse right off the batter on the +. If not, and it grounds out somewhere along the line, your gonna have one toasty WS6.

XtremeDime

iTrader: (16)

Ya Im going to be picking up a circuit breaker this morning for it.

While were on the subject, do you know how to wire up a 4 post kill switch?

squee

iTrader: (16)

Can you elaborate on the kill switch? What type? Kill what?