Sound Deadening Project in a 2002 Camaro
12-30-2011, 12:14 AM
#61
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I have a sound deadening project that I've been working on and am still getting materials and parts for a stereo together for my 2009 Avalanche.
I don't think I would put MLV inside the doors but just use it to deaden the floor.
12 lbs. of MLV on the doors is alot after you have used butyl tiles already on the inner skins. I plan to just use ensolite inside the doors along with tiles. All that additional weight cannot be good on doors, alignment, and hinges. Not to mention if you're doing this on an f-body that has doors that weigh a **** ton already.
MLV is the next best thing to lining your floors with lead that you could actually use on a vehicle. ****'s not cheap either.
12-30-2011, 08:24 AM
#62
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All these different materials are getting me confused.
So whats the best route?
Do you start with a deadener like RAAMMAT, then cover everything with a product like LL Pro? Thats got to be getting pretty thick, how does the carpet and door panels fit back in place?
So whats the best route?
Do you start with a deadener like RAAMMAT, then cover everything with a product like LL Pro? Thats got to be getting pretty thick, how does the carpet and door panels fit back in place?
12-30-2011, 08:36 AM
#63
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I used 2 layers of LL (NOT Pro) in my car and I had to trim a little bit of one of the layers under the center console but it was easy to do. I also kept the jute on the carpet.
You should have no trouble placing a layer of LL Pro in the doors. I'd put it in between the door panel and inner door skin, but if you use Pro (with the closed cell foam), you can use an adhesive to attach some to the inside of the outer door skin - though I don't see much of a reason to do it that way instead.
Don't use CLD on the whole car. Only use it on stuff that rattles. It does not block much road noise and would be a waste of money and add unnecessary weight. I typically just use the knock test... Knock on everything and use CLD on anything that resonates. If you want to use CLD on the entire floorpan, you CAN, but I think it's unnecessary.
You should have no trouble placing a layer of LL Pro in the doors. I'd put it in between the door panel and inner door skin, but if you use Pro (with the closed cell foam), you can use an adhesive to attach some to the inside of the outer door skin - though I don't see much of a reason to do it that way instead.
Don't use CLD on the whole car. Only use it on stuff that rattles. It does not block much road noise and would be a waste of money and add unnecessary weight. I typically just use the knock test... Knock on everything and use CLD on anything that resonates. If you want to use CLD on the entire floorpan, you CAN, but I think it's unnecessary.
12-30-2011, 08:55 AM
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Everything should fit back fine. Your carpet will be nice and "squishy" when done. Check out the how to on raamaudio. As long as you don't pile the **** over you seat studs you should be fine.
Start with good deadener to eliminate resonate noise. Use ensolite or MLV (or both) to actually act as a barrier. You can do as little or as much as you want, or can afford. You really can make your car quieter than a Benz, Lexus, or 7 series. Makes your stereo sound awesome too.
01-01-2012, 05:37 PM
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good info, amazing how many folks have no idea between a sound deadener and a sound barrier. so often you see folks wasting time and $$$ on coating every inch with sound deadener vs the barrier.
01-06-2012, 07:08 PM
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^ Shipping weight on a 50 sq/ft roll of that RT is 23lbs.. 0_o It takes about 80 sq/ft to do the complete inside of the car.
x2!! My roll of RT just came in yesterday. (50 sq/ft) Got the DynaMat pro roller with it. Can't wait to get cracking on this soon!! Mine needs it BAD!! The whole trunk area sounds like a damn drum if you bang around in there. Drone was getting bad and I'm thinking of doing some Second Skin products to help keep the noise down.
x2!! My roll of RT just came in yesterday. (50 sq/ft) Got the DynaMat pro roller with it. Can't wait to get cracking on this soon!! Mine needs it BAD!! The whole trunk area sounds like a damn drum if you bang around in there. Drone was getting bad and I'm thinking of doing some Second Skin products to help keep the noise down.
01-06-2013, 01:49 AM
#68
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Sorry for the delay, I was deployed to Afghanistan for a while. The 2 din was actually really easy. Dennis at Double D Mods on here took care of the bezel and it was only minor modifications to the dash. there are some writeups on here but if you need any help/suggestions let me know.
01-06-2013, 02:12 AM
#69
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I'm just going to throw this out there....
Before you guys go laying fat mat all over your cars ensure that you're doing your research on these products as they are not all equal. Fat Mat has quite a niche and that is because of it's price, however it isn't butyl based like a higher quality deadener. If a deadening product isn't butyl based it is tar and asphalt. Not necessarily the best in regards to a tar like odor or heat resistance for years and years espcially in a vertical or inverted application. You don 't have to buy Second Skin or Dynamat but there are alternatives. Also a layer of closed cell foam over your work would have been a very nice touch. Generally 50% coverage over a resonate panel is plently to eliminate all vibration harmonics from the panel you are working on. The matting you put in isn't effective costwise as a barrier. deadener yes, barrier no. Although your install looks a bit different than the route I plan, it looks very neatly done.
I have recently gotten some BXT II and ensolite in the mail to begin a project like this in my 2009 Avalanche.
Before you guys go laying fat mat all over your cars ensure that you're doing your research on these products as they are not all equal. Fat Mat has quite a niche and that is because of it's price, however it isn't butyl based like a higher quality deadener. If a deadening product isn't butyl based it is tar and asphalt. Not necessarily the best in regards to a tar like odor or heat resistance for years and years espcially in a vertical or inverted application. You don 't have to buy Second Skin or Dynamat but there are alternatives. Also a layer of closed cell foam over your work would have been a very nice touch. Generally 50% coverage over a resonate panel is plently to eliminate all vibration harmonics from the panel you are working on. The matting you put in isn't effective costwise as a barrier. deadener yes, barrier no. Although your install looks a bit different than the route I plan, it looks very neatly done.
I have recently gotten some BXT II and ensolite in the mail to begin a project like this in my 2009 Avalanche.
The great thing about this type of thread is we get good information from many sources so that others can make an informed decision. Now that the project is over a year old, and riding in some other vehicles that have had professional installs, I personally would not have done mine any different.
01-16-2013, 03:44 PM
#73
great job OP, i know how much work goes in to that! have did several vehicles, and yours is by far about the most detailed job ive seen in a while. about to mine when temps get back above freezing.
