WhiteBird00

iTrader: (4)

Electrical current is not pushed through a wire, it is drawn by the devices attached to the wire. The ACCY circuit is capable of providing a maximum of 15 amps but will only supply the amount of current needed by the devices attached (such as your satellite radio). If the radio only needs 5 amps then that is all that will flow. You can add more devices to the same circuit until the total draw reaches 15 amps.

The purpose of the fuse is to prevent too much current from flowing if something goes wrong. If the wire insulation gets chafed and then grounds against something metal then the "draw" is equal to the maximum discharge rate of the battery - much more than the wiring can safely handle without overheating, melting, and possibly causing a fire. The fuse prevents that by blowing (breaking the circuit) at a known amperage that is lower than the maximum the wire can withstand.

But it's not just short circuits that fuses protect against. Sometimes devices will draw too much current without having a short to ground. For example, the windings in motors or transformers can sometimes short together causing increased current draw without the massive overload of a short to ground. That's why you want to use the smallest fuse that will safely operate your accessory. While a short to ground will blow a fuse of almost any size, a current overdraw by a device is less dramatic but can still be just as dangerous.

Predator

Thanks for clearing that up Whitebird. So the key point is that the device(s) determines the amount of current drawn through the circuit. That really is the only conclusion that makes any sense, and I can now totally understand why a 5 amp fuse would be the correct choice for my satellite radio.

To show how electrically illiterate I am, I just learned today that since the negative terminal of the battery is connected (grounded) to the chassis, the entire chassis is essentially like the negative terminal, and if the circuits weren't grounded to the chassis then every circuit would have to be connected to the battery's negative terminal to complete the circuit. Knowing this helps me to understand how circuits work. This stuff is pretty cool.

Predator

Sorry for all the questions Whitebird, but do I use a male or a female type of spade quick connector in the fuse box? Also, my connectors have a hard plastic shell where the wire goes in. Do I have to push the wire in and solder it? It seems if I was to try to crimp it would break into a million pieces.

Also I got an inline fuse holder in which I installed a mini 5 amp fuse. What I like about this fuse holder is that it has 6" of wire coming out of either end.

Thanks.

Predator

Sorry, you said "male" connector in an earlier post.

WhiteBird00

iTrader: (4)

That plastic insulation (the red, blue or yellow in your photo) looks and feels brittle but will actually crimp fine. However, the uninsulated ones will fit better under the fuse panel cover. It's fairly easy to remove the insulating cover before you crimp.

Predator

Thanks Whitebird, I tried to insert a 1/4" wide connector into the fuse panel. I was able to push it into BATT, and it seemed to fit pretty securely, but ACCY I wasn't able to. It just feels like there is no place to plug the connector in. With BATT, the connector goes in with the spade parallel with ground near the top of the opening. I tried the same method with ACCY but no go. A problem I have is I can't look into the opening because the door is in the way, so I'm trying to insert the connector blind. I'll keep trying since it works with BATT, why not ACCY? Any tricks or tips?

WhiteBird00

iTrader: (4)

Use a mechanic's mirror or your wife/girlfriend's compact mirror to get a better view of the port - that's much easier than removing the driver's door.

Predator

Oh yeah, a mirror, you forgot the smoke, smoke and mirrors. Seriously, good idea. I can't believe how complicated this is for me haha. The devil is in the details.

Predator

Hey Whitebird, I finally got around to inspecting the ACCY port with a mirror and there is no metal slot to plug into; the ACCY port is just an opening with no slot. The IGN port is the same, no slot, but the BATT port I'm able to plug into, but I can't use that, obviously. I'm 100% sure about this; I saw with my own two eyes.

So what other options do I have to get ACCY power (same as the HU) to hardwire my satellite radio? The only thing I can think of is tapping into the yellow wire behind the HU. Is that correct, and is that the only other option? Thanks.

WhiteBird00

iTrader: (4)

That's odd... all three ports were available in my car. In fact, I connected a different color wire (fused) to each and ran them under the dash to behind the console so I would always have a convenient place to wire accessories.

There are other places you can tap into the RAP circuit (e.g. at the BCM) but the head unit harness is the most convenient for your satellite radio. The satellite radio shouldn't draw too much power for the existing circuit so you should be fine tapping in there.

Predator

Thanks Whitebird, I know, it's very odd that those ports aren't available to me. I don't know what's going on there. Very strange.

Ok, hopefully these will be my last questions on this topic: should I still use my 5 amp inline fuse when tapping into the yellow wire behind the HU? Also, where's the best place to ground my cigarette adapter if tapping the HU's yellow wire? I was thinking somewhere on the right-hand side of the steering wheel column? Thanks again!

WhiteBird00

iTrader: (4)

Using the fuse can't hurt but is probably not necessary since it will be such a short run from the splice to the satellite radio.

You have many options for ground but since you'll be splicing into the radio harness anyway, the black wire there might be as good a choice as any.

Predator

Oh okay Whitebird, great. I plan on picking up some "Posi-Taps" at Napa. I dread trying to remove an inch of insulation on the harness wire(s) and splicing that way. Have you had any experience with Posi-Lock?

BTW, out of curiosity, what's the technique for removing a little section of insulation on a wire without damaging the wire underneath. I was thinking maybe you would use the wire strippers to just cut the insulation and then something like a utility knife to slit the section of insulation. Is that correct, if not, how do you do it? I'm amazed by all the details involved with this stuff. Thanks!

VIP1

There are some crimp connectors / taps that cut into the insulation on their own so you don't have to cut it yourself.

There are a few kinds, but these are the 2 most common:





They are available at most auto-parts stores.

I've used both of those kinds above.

The color of the connectors applies to the gauge of wire being used. Disregard the color in the pictures and and get the correct connectors for the gauge of wire you are using.

The first kind pictured above is a 2-part connection. The first part is in that first pic. It crimps into the source wire. Slide the feed wire though the round part of the connector and close shut with regular pliers. The metal tine inside it cuts through the insulation. The second piece is an insulated male spade connector. You crimp that onto the new wire you want to power just like any other spade crimp connection (strip 1/4 inch insulation from the new wire, slide into spade connector and crimp with crimpers). Then plug the two parts together.

The second kind pictured above is a little simpler/quicker. It has 2-channels/groves. One side is a complete pass-through. Slide the connector over the feed wire so that it fits into the pass-through side. The second channel/grove is partially blocked. Feed the wire you want to connect into that second blocked channel/grove. Make sure the end of that new wire is cut flat with the insulation intact. Also make sure you slide into the side of the channel where the metal tine cuts into. Then clamp down the metal tine with regular pliers. The metal tine will simultaneously cut through the insulation on both the feed and new wire to make the connection. Make sure to flip over the plastic tab to cover the metal tine when done.

I always also wrap the connection with electrical tape regardless of which type I use.

WhiteBird00

iTrader: (4)

I was going to suggest the same thing as VIP1 but he beat me to it (great minds think alike). The Posi-Taps are a great product that produces a secure connection but they are relatively expensive compared to the ScotchLocks pictured above.

As far as stripping the middle of a wire... it can be done manually with a blade if you're careful but it's easy to damage the wire. I have a special stripping tool that makes a single slice in the insulation and then pushes the insulation apart with a squeeze of the handle. However, it's somewhat of a specialty tool that isn't worth buying unless you plan to do a lot of that type of work.

Predator

Great info fellas, thanks! I used up the few ScotchLocks I had experimenting with some scrap wire. Then I went online and stumbled upon Posi-Taps and watched a video showing how they work. I thought to myself that even I could make those work haha.

I never knew there was a tool for stripping the middle of a wire, good to know. I think I'll just see if Napa has any Posi-Taps. The Posi-Lock website says that Napa is a retailer.

I think I'm ready to tackle this now. I'm already sick of plugging and unplugging my satellite radio. I've learned a lot of new stuff here which I really enjoy. I've even been practicing with my multimeter, all I ever knew how to do was check voltage, but you can do a lot more than that with it. I'll let you guys know how it turned out. As always, thankyou!

Predator

I got a couple Posi-Taps from Napa. PN: 785965, 12-18G:



I should be all set now. I feel confident now instead of dreading splicing and soldering.

BTW Whitebird, you were right about Posi-Taps being expensive. $9.95 for two of them!

Predator

Just a heads up. You can buy 5 of those Posi-Taps at Amazon for $5.95:

http://www.amazon.com/Posi-tap-Conne...150118&sr=8-12

Predator

Success! It worked out perfectly, with no issues. The only thing I had to be careful about was tapping the correct yellow wire on the black connector. There's also a yellow wire on the white connector for a speaker. The Posi-Taps really made life easy, great product!

Thanks so much Whitebird, and VP1 too. You guys are the best!

Predator

I'm back!

Okay, looks like I got a little problem with my satellite radio setup. I hardwired/ tapped into the power and the ground wires behind the HU. I have an intermittent feedback sound that mirrors the accelerating of the car, or sometimes when I lower the power window I can hear the motor working through the speakers. It's a high-pitched whirring sound. It's not constant but comes and goes. I didn't have this problem when I used the cigarette adapter for power.

I was wondering if there was something I could do to fix this feedback? Maybe find a different ground than the black wire behind the HU? Or is there such thing as a noise supressor I could install? TIA.