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Does New BCM have to be Flashed by the Dealer?
02-09-2020, 05:52 PM
#81
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There is no programming involved - the dealer is either clueless or trying to rip you off. The only thing that the BCM has to learn is the resistance value of your ignition key for the VATS system. A new BCM learns the resistance value of the first key used and it can't be changed after that.
All you have to do is plug in the new BCM and start the car with your regular key. There are no special programming steps involved. Then call your dealer and tell them to look it up in the service manual. (It's not Nimnicht, is it?)
All you have to do is plug in the new BCM and start the car with your regular key. There are no special programming steps involved. Then call your dealer and tell them to look it up in the service manual. (It's not Nimnicht, is it?)
02-10-2020, 06:56 AM
#82
No. The BCM in 4th generation f-bodies is a relatively simple device hardly worthy of being called a computer. Once you get into later GM models - basically anything starting in the early 2000s that came with a factory double DIN sized radio - the BCM and the radio became much more sophisticated and integrated into the vehicle. A new BCM in your 2009 will have to be programmed by the dealer to match the vehicle identification number (VIN) before it will work.
04-26-2020, 12:57 PM
#83
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Same installation procedure for all 98-02 F-bodies. The GM service manual is quite specific on the procedure:
Are you sure you're not thinking of a PCM rather than a BCM? The reason I ask is because the BCM doesn't even connect to a Tech 2 programmer for diagnostics let alone programming. BCM Diagnostics are done in the car using the SECURITY light in the instrument cluster to flash diagnostic codes:
Are you sure you're not thinking of a PCM rather than a BCM? The reason I ask is because the BCM doesn't even connect to a Tech 2 programmer for diagnostics let alone programming. BCM Diagnostics are done in the car using the SECURITY light in the instrument cluster to flash diagnostic codes:
04-27-2020, 10:08 AM
#84
First, your car does not have VATS... it has a different system known as Passlock and referred to as the VTD (Vehicle Theft Deterrent) system. This system uses sensors in the ignition lock cylinder and does not require special keys with resistors like VATS does. Second, the BCM in your Grand Am is considerably different from the type used in 4th generation f-bodies - it controls a lot more functions, communicates using type II serial data, and must be programmed to match the vehicle RPO codes using a scan tool.
Since Passlock doesn't use special keys, there is no need for a key learn sequence. There is a simple 10-minute reset procedure for use when the Hall effect sensors don't work properly but even that should be unnecessary if you've bypassed the system.
Since Passlock doesn't use special keys, there is no need for a key learn sequence. There is a simple 10-minute reset procedure for use when the Hall effect sensors don't work properly but even that should be unnecessary if you've bypassed the system.
12-04-2020, 02:04 PM
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Bcm wasnt flashed Hey all... As some of you might know.. I was previously having issues with my bcm not unlocking my doors and hatch...
I finally ordered a replacemend "new" bcm which is made by AC Delco. However, my question is this:
Do I have to have my new bcm "Flashed" by the dealer in order for it to work in my car... I called the dealership today & was told that the only way that it will work is if I drive my car over there with my old bcm unit in the car & that they must flash it for it to work...
Only problem is the flash is $105-115 bucks
... Is there any truth to this or do they just want some free money?!...
Thanks in advance for your help.
Correcting my previous thread... ****They said that I have to drive the car over to the dealership with the old unit in the car & take them the new unit so that they can flash it.... & its not until then that my car will work... according to the dealership?...
Anyone else have any experience with installing a new bcm?..
I finally ordered a replacemend "new" bcm which is made by AC Delco. However, my question is this:
Do I have to have my new bcm "Flashed" by the dealer in order for it to work in my car... I called the dealership today & was told that the only way that it will work is if I drive my car over there with my old bcm unit in the car & that they must flash it for it to work...
Only problem is the flash is $105-115 bucks
... Is there any truth to this or do they just want some free money?!...Thanks in advance for your help.
Correcting my previous thread... ****They said that I have to drive the car over to the dealership with the old unit in the car & take them the new unit so that they can flash it.... & its not until then that my car will work... according to the dealership?...
Anyone else have any experience with installing a new bcm?..
12-04-2020, 02:41 PM
#86
Hi Danielle, welcome to the forum.
Assuming that you have an f-body, it is unlikely but possible that an improper radio installation could have damaged the retained accessory power (RAP) circuit in the BCM although I would expect that it would blow the fuse first. If it did blow the RAP circuit in the BCM, the radio and windows would stop working. However, there would be no impact on the wipers since they are not connected to the BCM in any way. That would make me think that your mechanic told you it was the BCM when it was really something else.
You were extremely lucky that a used BCM would work. There were 13 different resistor values used randomly on these cars for the VATS system so lucked out with a 1 in 13 chance that your key would happen to have the same value as the car the BCM came out of. Again, a possible indication that the BCM was not actually replaced.
The alarm problem is due to not disarming the alarm with a remote fob prior to getting into the car. There are a couple of options for fixing that. The one I would go with is buy a couple of new remotes (assuming you don't have any) and program them to match the alarm. That fixes the alarm problem and also gives you keyless entry at the same time. The other option is to program the alarm off or at least not to activate automatically when the car is locked.
Here is the information on programming from your owner's manual:
You want to set THEFT DETERRENT ARMING METHOD to option 1 or 2 (alarm off or alarm armed only with remote fob).
Assuming that you have an f-body, it is unlikely but possible that an improper radio installation could have damaged the retained accessory power (RAP) circuit in the BCM although I would expect that it would blow the fuse first. If it did blow the RAP circuit in the BCM, the radio and windows would stop working. However, there would be no impact on the wipers since they are not connected to the BCM in any way. That would make me think that your mechanic told you it was the BCM when it was really something else.
You were extremely lucky that a used BCM would work. There were 13 different resistor values used randomly on these cars for the VATS system so lucked out with a 1 in 13 chance that your key would happen to have the same value as the car the BCM came out of. Again, a possible indication that the BCM was not actually replaced.
The alarm problem is due to not disarming the alarm with a remote fob prior to getting into the car. There are a couple of options for fixing that. The one I would go with is buy a couple of new remotes (assuming you don't have any) and program them to match the alarm. That fixes the alarm problem and also gives you keyless entry at the same time. The other option is to program the alarm off or at least not to activate automatically when the car is locked.
Here is the information on programming from your owner's manual:
PROGRAMMING THE FACTORY ALARM
ENTERING PROGRAMMING MODE
To program features, the car must be in programming mode.
1) Turn key to RUN position.
2) Turn key to OFF position.
3) Remove the RADIO fuse in the main fuse panel.
4) Turn the key to ACC
You should hear a chime to verify that the system is in the programming mode.
1 chime means you can program Exit Lighting, Delayed Illumination, Last Door Closed Locking and Lock Out.
2 chimes means your car is equipped with Content Theft-Deterrent System so you can also program Remote Keyless Entry Verification, Arming Method, Arming Verification, Driver's Door Delay and Shock Sensor Enable.
EXIT LIGHTING & ILLUMINATION
With exit lighting, your interior lamps will come on for up to 25 sec. when the key is removed.
With Delay Illumination, your interior lamps will come on and stay on for up to 25 sec. when entering the car and up to 5 sec. when leaving the car.
To change the factory setting...
1) Turn the courtesy lamps on by turning the instrument panel brightness control **** all the way up.
2) Count the number of chimes you hear. The number of chimes tells you which mode you are in.
3) Turn the courtesy lamp switch off.
4) Turn the switch on and off until you hear the number of chimes that correspond to the mode you want to be in.
MODE 1 Both Off.
MODE 2 Delayed Illumination Only.
MODE 3 Exit Lighting Only.
MODE 4 Both On.
LAST DOOR LOCKING & LOCKOUT PREVENTION
To change the setting...
1) Press the LOCK switch on the door.
2) Count the number of chimes you hear. The number of chimes tells you which mode you are in.
3) Press the LOCK switch on the door until you hear the number of chimes for the mode you want to be in.
MODE 1 Both Off (Door will lock and unlock when you press the door lock switch)
MODE 2 Lockout Prevention Only (If you leave your keys in the ign. and leave thru the driver's door, you won't be able to lock the doors with the power door lock switch.)
MODE 3 Last Door Closed Only. (If the power door lock switch is used to lock the car while any door is open, you will hear 3 chimes. The doors will not lock until all the doors are closed.)
MODE 4 Both On. (This combines Mode 2 and 3.)
REMOTE KEYLESS ENTRY VERIFICATION
To change this setting...
1) Press the UNLOCK button on the remote transmitter.
2) Count the number of chimes you hear. This tells you which mode you're in.
3) Press the UNLOCK button on the remote until you hear the number of chimes that correspond to the mode you want.
MODE 1 All Off. (The head lights will not flash and the horn will not sound)
MODE 2 Horn and Lamps/Lamps (Your horn will sound and your parking lights will flash when you press the LOCK button on the transmitter. Only the parking lamps will flash when you press UNLOCK)
MODE 3 Horn and Lamps (Your horn will sound and the parking lamps will flash every time you press LOCK or UNLOCK)
MODE 4 Lamps (The parking lamps will flash when you press LOCK or UNLOCK)
MODE 5 Lamps/Horn and Lamps (Lamps will flash on the first press on LOCK, your lamps will flash and the horn will sound on the second press on LOCK and the lamps will flash any time you press UNLOCK)
THEFT-DETERRENT VERIFICATION
To change this setting...
1) Press the LOCK button on the remote.
2) Count the number of chimes you hear.
3) Press the LOCK button on the remote until you hear the number of chimes you want.
MODE 1 All Off (No horn chirp or lamp flash)
MODE 2 Horn and Lamps (Your lamps will flash and the horn will chirp twice)
MODE 3 Horn and Lamps/Lamps (If you use the remote to arm the system, your lamps will flash and the horn will chirp twice to verify the system is armed. If it only chirps once, the hatch is open or unlatched. If you use either the power door lock switch or passive arming, only the lamps will flash for verification)
THEFT DETERRENT ARMING METHOD
To change this setting...
1) Press the UNLOCK switch on the door.
2) Count the number of chimes
3) Press the UNLOCK switch on the door until you are in the mode you want.
MODE 1 Alarm System Off (System will not arm)
MODE 2 Remote Keyless Entry Transmitter Lock (When you lock the doors using the remote, the system will arm itself)
MODE 3 Remote Keyless Entry Transmitter/Power Door Lock Switch (If you use the remote or the power door lock switch to lock the doors, the system will arm)
MODE 4 Passive Arming and Remote Keyless Entry Transmitter/Power Door Lock Switch Arming (The system will arm itself after all doors are closed plus arming per MODE 3)
DRIVER'S DOOR ALARM DELAY AND SHOCK SENSOR ENABLE
To change this setting...
1) Turn the parking lamps on and off
2) Count the chimes
3) Turn the parking lamps on and off until you hear the number of chimes you wany
MODE 1 Zero Delay and Sensor Disabled (The alarm will sound immediately if the driver's door is opened with your key and the shock sensor will be disabled)
MODE 2 8 Second Delay and Shock Sensor Disabled (The alarm will sound 8 seconds after the driver's door is opened with your key and the shock sensor will be disabled)
MODE 3 Zero Delay and Shock Sensor Enabled (The alarm will sound immediately after the driver's door is opened with your key and the shock sensor will be active)
MODE 4 8 Second Delay and Shock Sensor Enabled (The alarm will sound 8 seconds after the driver's door is opened with your key and the shock sensor will be active)
LEAVING PROGRAM MODE
When programming is done, turn the ignition to OFF and replace the RADIO fuse.
ENTERING PROGRAMMING MODE
To program features, the car must be in programming mode.
1) Turn key to RUN position.
2) Turn key to OFF position.
3) Remove the RADIO fuse in the main fuse panel.
4) Turn the key to ACC
You should hear a chime to verify that the system is in the programming mode.
1 chime means you can program Exit Lighting, Delayed Illumination, Last Door Closed Locking and Lock Out.
2 chimes means your car is equipped with Content Theft-Deterrent System so you can also program Remote Keyless Entry Verification, Arming Method, Arming Verification, Driver's Door Delay and Shock Sensor Enable.
EXIT LIGHTING & ILLUMINATION
With exit lighting, your interior lamps will come on for up to 25 sec. when the key is removed.
With Delay Illumination, your interior lamps will come on and stay on for up to 25 sec. when entering the car and up to 5 sec. when leaving the car.
To change the factory setting...
1) Turn the courtesy lamps on by turning the instrument panel brightness control **** all the way up.
2) Count the number of chimes you hear. The number of chimes tells you which mode you are in.
3) Turn the courtesy lamp switch off.
4) Turn the switch on and off until you hear the number of chimes that correspond to the mode you want to be in.
MODE 1 Both Off.
MODE 2 Delayed Illumination Only.
MODE 3 Exit Lighting Only.
MODE 4 Both On.
LAST DOOR LOCKING & LOCKOUT PREVENTION
To change the setting...
1) Press the LOCK switch on the door.
2) Count the number of chimes you hear. The number of chimes tells you which mode you are in.
3) Press the LOCK switch on the door until you hear the number of chimes for the mode you want to be in.
MODE 1 Both Off (Door will lock and unlock when you press the door lock switch)
MODE 2 Lockout Prevention Only (If you leave your keys in the ign. and leave thru the driver's door, you won't be able to lock the doors with the power door lock switch.)
MODE 3 Last Door Closed Only. (If the power door lock switch is used to lock the car while any door is open, you will hear 3 chimes. The doors will not lock until all the doors are closed.)
MODE 4 Both On. (This combines Mode 2 and 3.)
REMOTE KEYLESS ENTRY VERIFICATION
To change this setting...
1) Press the UNLOCK button on the remote transmitter.
2) Count the number of chimes you hear. This tells you which mode you're in.
3) Press the UNLOCK button on the remote until you hear the number of chimes that correspond to the mode you want.
MODE 1 All Off. (The head lights will not flash and the horn will not sound)
MODE 2 Horn and Lamps/Lamps (Your horn will sound and your parking lights will flash when you press the LOCK button on the transmitter. Only the parking lamps will flash when you press UNLOCK)
MODE 3 Horn and Lamps (Your horn will sound and the parking lamps will flash every time you press LOCK or UNLOCK)
MODE 4 Lamps (The parking lamps will flash when you press LOCK or UNLOCK)
MODE 5 Lamps/Horn and Lamps (Lamps will flash on the first press on LOCK, your lamps will flash and the horn will sound on the second press on LOCK and the lamps will flash any time you press UNLOCK)
THEFT-DETERRENT VERIFICATION
To change this setting...
1) Press the LOCK button on the remote.
2) Count the number of chimes you hear.
3) Press the LOCK button on the remote until you hear the number of chimes you want.
MODE 1 All Off (No horn chirp or lamp flash)
MODE 2 Horn and Lamps (Your lamps will flash and the horn will chirp twice)
MODE 3 Horn and Lamps/Lamps (If you use the remote to arm the system, your lamps will flash and the horn will chirp twice to verify the system is armed. If it only chirps once, the hatch is open or unlatched. If you use either the power door lock switch or passive arming, only the lamps will flash for verification)
THEFT DETERRENT ARMING METHOD
To change this setting...
1) Press the UNLOCK switch on the door.
2) Count the number of chimes
3) Press the UNLOCK switch on the door until you are in the mode you want.
MODE 1 Alarm System Off (System will not arm)
MODE 2 Remote Keyless Entry Transmitter Lock (When you lock the doors using the remote, the system will arm itself)
MODE 3 Remote Keyless Entry Transmitter/Power Door Lock Switch (If you use the remote or the power door lock switch to lock the doors, the system will arm)
MODE 4 Passive Arming and Remote Keyless Entry Transmitter/Power Door Lock Switch Arming (The system will arm itself after all doors are closed plus arming per MODE 3)
DRIVER'S DOOR ALARM DELAY AND SHOCK SENSOR ENABLE
To change this setting...
1) Turn the parking lamps on and off
2) Count the chimes
3) Turn the parking lamps on and off until you hear the number of chimes you wany
MODE 1 Zero Delay and Sensor Disabled (The alarm will sound immediately if the driver's door is opened with your key and the shock sensor will be disabled)
MODE 2 8 Second Delay and Shock Sensor Disabled (The alarm will sound 8 seconds after the driver's door is opened with your key and the shock sensor will be disabled)
MODE 3 Zero Delay and Shock Sensor Enabled (The alarm will sound immediately after the driver's door is opened with your key and the shock sensor will be active)
MODE 4 8 Second Delay and Shock Sensor Enabled (The alarm will sound 8 seconds after the driver's door is opened with your key and the shock sensor will be active)
LEAVING PROGRAM MODE
When programming is done, turn the ignition to OFF and replace the RADIO fuse.
12-17-2020, 01:07 PM
#87
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The new BCM does have to be programmed. I went through this myself. Plugging the new one in and turning the key does nothing. Trust me I tried multiple times. When I replaced mine after I put the new one in and turned the key nothing happened. Tried many times the car would not ding, click, flash, turnover, nothing. Took it to the dealer and watched them program it with the tech 2, car started right up.
12-19-2020, 10:56 AM
#89
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Bcm Hello and I hope my question is not misplaced or out of line. The Camaro and a few other sleds around here are fine. It's my 1998 GMC Sonoma SLS 3 Door W Code 4.3 that is wonky. Trying to watch the money as the medical profession is my best friend. Eighteen surgeries, 5 this year, 5 more needed, and 3 of those 5 are inoperable so I struggle a bit. Pretty sure the problem is BCM related; symptoms below.
Cruise quit. Interior lights would not come on then they did and would not go off even with override. Dash lights went out Radio display in and out. Tail lights out. Brake/headlights/turn signals work. Then A/C went from fine one day to inoperative the next. Next day the ABS light came on and stayed on. Currently interior lights and radio display are working; or at least they were yesterday. Power mirrors out. Truck runs fine. Pulled the BCM out and took a look inside. No apparent printed circuit issues are visible. So; BCM I assume?
Several parts stores here sell a reman BCM and they verified that it's pre-programmed and is a plug and play unit. Looking for an opinion on whether that sounds feasible and the easiest way out of this jam. Thanks in advance for any information as it will be greatly appreciated.
Cruise quit. Interior lights would not come on then they did and would not go off even with override. Dash lights went out Radio display in and out. Tail lights out. Brake/headlights/turn signals work. Then A/C went from fine one day to inoperative the next. Next day the ABS light came on and stayed on. Currently interior lights and radio display are working; or at least they were yesterday. Power mirrors out. Truck runs fine. Pulled the BCM out and took a look inside. No apparent printed circuit issues are visible. So; BCM I assume?
Several parts stores here sell a reman BCM and they verified that it's pre-programmed and is a plug and play unit. Looking for an opinion on whether that sounds feasible and the easiest way out of this jam. Thanks in advance for any information as it will be greatly appreciated.
12-19-2020, 02:48 PM
#90
You've got some things that could be the BCM and others that certainly aren't. Cruise control is unrelated to the BCM. Radio display by itself is not a BCM issue unless the radio is completely off (i.e. not just the display)... that could be the Retained Accessory Power circuit in the BCM. ABS, A/C, and outside mirrors are all completely independent of the BCM.
So really, the only issues you have that are connected to the BCM are related to lighting. The headlights, parking/running lights, and interior lights are controlled by the BCM under certain conditions (mostly when the headlight switch is set to Auto or when the alarm or keyless entry is flashing the parking lights). However, I would check fuses before assuming that the tail lights are out because of the BCM - especially since the headlights work and they're controlled in the same way.
Given that most of the problems are not related to the BCM, I would not replace it. It is possible that the tail lights might be a BCM problem but I would look at all other common causes (like fuses) before going after the BCM.
So really, the only issues you have that are connected to the BCM are related to lighting. The headlights, parking/running lights, and interior lights are controlled by the BCM under certain conditions (mostly when the headlight switch is set to Auto or when the alarm or keyless entry is flashing the parking lights). However, I would check fuses before assuming that the tail lights are out because of the BCM - especially since the headlights work and they're controlled in the same way.
Given that most of the problems are not related to the BCM, I would not replace it. It is possible that the tail lights might be a BCM problem but I would look at all other common causes (like fuses) before going after the BCM.
12-19-2020, 08:09 PM
#91
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Bcm Thank you for your response. Fuses in both the dashboard and underhood boxes have been double checked and all fuses are good as to power sources and continuity with a VOM. As I mentioned, headlight, brake, and turn signals are operative but there is no power at either of the rear bulb sockets with the lighting on and now the front park lamps are out with no power at the sockets.
I might mention that originally the dashboard illumination was sketchy for a few days but dinking with the rheostat would get it going. After a few days the illumination died completely. Normally lack of tail lamps and dash lighting would point to a faulty headlight switch so I replaced that. That did not solve anything.
Per the Haynes (bird cage liner) manual the HL switch should have been the root cause although Haynes/Chiltons manuals are not to be trusted. One example of Chiltons being "misguided" is their manual stating that 6 PSI of oil pressure at 1800 RPMs on a 4th generation 3.8 RS is "normal". Another is compression at 150 on one cylinder and 115 on another being considered "normal".
The past few days the interior lamps are back to working normally. This will get sorted out but it just comes across as very odd that suddenly multiple things have been so hit and miss with each sunup bringing a new surprise.
Again, thank you sincerely for your advice. It is appreciated and I will hold off on a BCM.
I might mention that originally the dashboard illumination was sketchy for a few days but dinking with the rheostat would get it going. After a few days the illumination died completely. Normally lack of tail lamps and dash lighting would point to a faulty headlight switch so I replaced that. That did not solve anything.
Per the Haynes (bird cage liner) manual the HL switch should have been the root cause although Haynes/Chiltons manuals are not to be trusted. One example of Chiltons being "misguided" is their manual stating that 6 PSI of oil pressure at 1800 RPMs on a 4th generation 3.8 RS is "normal". Another is compression at 150 on one cylinder and 115 on another being considered "normal".
The past few days the interior lamps are back to working normally. This will get sorted out but it just comes across as very odd that suddenly multiple things have been so hit and miss with each sunup bringing a new surprise.
Again, thank you sincerely for your advice. It is appreciated and I will hold off on a BCM.
01-13-2021, 12:57 AM
#92
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Hello WhiteBird00, I have a question concerning a 2009 chevy Tahoe. I have a 2009 chevy Tahoe, that wouldn’t start, radio turn on and off, window switches would work but then wouldn’t, so on and so forth. So after reading some forms then joining this form, I bought a used bcm from a local salvage yard. I installed the bcm into the Tahoe, starts right up. Radio is locked, remote start, or keyless still doesn’t work. What am I missing to fix remaining issues?
Last edited by rhett myers jr; 01-13-2021 at 12:59 AM. Reason: Messed up title
03-02-2021, 04:58 PM
#94
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Hey all... As some of you might know.. I was previously having issues with my bcm not unlocking my doors and hatch...
I finally ordered a replacemend "new" bcm which is made by AC Delco. However, my question is this:
Do I have to have my new bcm "Flashed" by the dealer in order for it to work in my car... I called the dealership today & was told that the only way that it will work is if I drive my car over there with my old bcm unit in the car & that they must flash it for it to work...
Only problem is the flash is $105-115 bucks... Is there any truth to this or do they just want some free money?!...
Thanks in advance for your help.
Correcting my previous thread... ****They said that I have to drive the car over to the dealership with the old unit in the car & take them the new unit so that they can flash it.... & its not until then that my car will work... according to the dealership?...
Anyone else have any experience with installing a new bcm?..
I finally ordered a replacemend "new" bcm which is made by AC Delco. However, my question is this:
Do I have to have my new bcm "Flashed" by the dealer in order for it to work in my car... I called the dealership today & was told that the only way that it will work is if I drive my car over there with my old bcm unit in the car & that they must flash it for it to work...
Only problem is the flash is $105-115 bucks
... Is there any truth to this or do they just want some free money?!...Thanks in advance for your help.
Correcting my previous thread... ****They said that I have to drive the car over to the dealership with the old unit in the car & take them the new unit so that they can flash it.... & its not until then that my car will work... according to the dealership?...
Anyone else have any experience with installing a new bcm?..
03-03-2021, 11:33 AM
#96
And Why get a BCM when you can mimmick the same thing with an Arduino board. Aren't the BCM expensive??
03-04-2021, 07:46 AM
#97
No, VATS in 98-02 f-bodies can't be disabled merely by programming. VATS disables the vehicle in two ways - it doesn't provide the necessary ground to the starter relay coil and it doesn't provide the fuel enable signal to the PCM. You can program the PCM to ignore the lack of a fuel enable signal or you can provide an alternate signal but you can't program the starter relay coil. That requires physically rewiring the starter relay to provide an alternate ground for the relay coil... not particularly difficult but not "programming". And you still end up with the SECURITY light on the dash. The best way to eliminate VATS is to bypass it with resistors. That takes care of all three issues.
I don't know if you could do all the things the BCM does with an Arduino board. In addition to VATS and the factory alarm system, the BCM controls interior lighting, provides retained accessory power (RAP) for radio and windows, manages a number of warning lights in the dash, controls the power locks, handles keyless entry and its notifications (horn and parking lights), and controls the power hatch release. Since BCMs very seldom fail other than for the easily repairable RAP solder joint problem (VATS problems are almost never the fault of the BCM), replacement is usually not necessary so I'd hate to spend time and money on a board and programming when a handful of cheap resistors can solve the VATS problem.
I don't know if you could do all the things the BCM does with an Arduino board. In addition to VATS and the factory alarm system, the BCM controls interior lighting, provides retained accessory power (RAP) for radio and windows, manages a number of warning lights in the dash, controls the power locks, handles keyless entry and its notifications (horn and parking lights), and controls the power hatch release. Since BCMs very seldom fail other than for the easily repairable RAP solder joint problem (VATS problems are almost never the fault of the BCM), replacement is usually not necessary so I'd hate to spend time and money on a board and programming when a handful of cheap resistors can solve the VATS problem.
03-04-2021, 10:41 AM
#98
No, VATS in 98-02 f-bodies can't be disabled merely by programming. VATS disables the vehicle in two ways - it doesn't provide the necessary ground to the starter relay coil and it doesn't provide the fuel enable signal to the PCM. You can program the PCM to ignore the lack of a fuel enable signal or you can provide an alternate signal but you can't program the starter relay coil. That requires physically rewiring the starter relay to provide an alternate ground for the relay coil... not particularly difficult but not "programming". And you still end up with the SECURITY light on the dash. The best way to eliminate VATS is to bypass it with resistors. That takes care of all three issues.
I don't know if you could do all the things the BCM does with an Arduino board. In addition to VATS and the factory alarm system, the BCM controls interior lighting, provides retained accessory power (RAP) for radio and windows, manages a number of warning lights in the dash, controls the power locks, handles keyless entry and its notifications (horn and parking lights), and controls the power hatch release. Since BCMs very seldom fail other than for the easily repairable RAP solder joint problem (VATS problems are almost never the fault of the BCM), replacement is usually not necessary so I'd hate to spend time and money on a board and programming when a handful of cheap resistors can solve the VATS problem.
I don't know if you could do all the things the BCM does with an Arduino board. In addition to VATS and the factory alarm system, the BCM controls interior lighting, provides retained accessory power (RAP) for radio and windows, manages a number of warning lights in the dash, controls the power locks, handles keyless entry and its notifications (horn and parking lights), and controls the power hatch release. Since BCMs very seldom fail other than for the easily repairable RAP solder joint problem (VATS problems are almost never the fault of the BCM), replacement is usually not necessary so I'd hate to spend time and money on a board and programming when a handful of cheap resistors can solve the VATS problem.
You're right, it is simpler this way. So, I stand corrected
let me shh. I would pull it out and resolder it then. I'm just a security freak here talking. .. lol
I do believe that Arduino could make it happen though. I'd have to look at it more closely... and not stupid enough to argue with you - whitebird - but I would humor if it could be done or not. For a surprisingly low cost. If you needed to replace the whole system though. But then again.. I guess you could find the right stuff you needed to resurface the board.
Sorry for going off topic
03-05-2021, 09:49 AM
#99
I too would be interested to see if the BCM could be replaced with a programmable board and still maintain all, or at least most, of the functions - just not interested enough to try it myself. But I would love to hear about it if someone took it on as a project.
11-03-2022, 06:41 AM
#100
Hello WhiteBird
i have a 2010 Camaro SS v8 and I have a faulty bcm so I ordered a new bcm 13578421 from Rockauto but the numbers on my original bcm is 13577268. Can this still be programmed to my car? Online it says this should work on my car. When plugged in, my car doesnt start but everything shows up correctly. I have the launch tablet x program to reprogram it.. am I missing something?
i have a 2010 Camaro SS v8 and I have a faulty bcm so I ordered a new bcm 13578421 from Rockauto but the numbers on my original bcm is 13577268. Can this still be programmed to my car? Online it says this should work on my car. When plugged in, my car doesnt start but everything shows up correctly. I have the launch tablet x program to reprogram it.. am I missing something?