Sound issue
Sound issue I have infinity reference in the doors, kickers in the sail and jvc in the hatch.
Prior to changing my door speakers my kickers sounded great, really good bass.
When I replaced my door speakers I realized that the person that owned the car before me had put 4 ohm pioneers in the door, so im glad i replaced them.
But since then, my kickers don't knock like they did, the sound from the infinitys are great, but im not sure why I don't have the nice bass anymore?
Any ideas?
Prior to changing my door speakers my kickers sounded great, really good bass.
When I replaced my door speakers I realized that the person that owned the car before me had put 4 ohm pioneers in the door, so im glad i replaced them.
But since then, my kickers don't knock like they did, the sound from the infinitys are great, but im not sure why I don't have the nice bass anymore?
Any ideas?
Any ideas?
The only thing i can think of is that more power is now going to the front speakers since they are actually correct ohms?
The only difference in the setup is the door speakers and I took the covers off the sails and it doesnt look like they are moving as much as they were prior to me changing the doors
The only thing i can think of is that more power is now going to the front speakers since they are actually correct ohms?
The only difference in the setup is the door speakers and I took the covers off the sails and it doesnt look like they are moving as much as they were prior to me changing the doors
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honestly it sounds like its an illusion, do your fronts sound WAY better than they did..or just marginally better?
rear speakers are just there for fill, so if your front stage becomes significantly better than before...you won't notice the rears as much.
or maybe since factory speakers are 2.xx ohm and there was a 4 ohm speaker in there, the amp would have been able to put more power to the other channels because the front ones weren't "needing" as much power...just a theory
try disconnecting the JVCs and see if it solves the problem
quickest, easiest way to solve the problem? buy an Alpine MRP-F300 for $200 (retail price, can be had new for alot less), its easily wired inbetween your speakers and stock amp, plus power, ground, and remote trigger obviouslly...and it will sound better than ever before no doubt...or slap a new head unit in there
rear speakers are just there for fill, so if your front stage becomes significantly better than before...you won't notice the rears as much.
or maybe since factory speakers are 2.xx ohm and there was a 4 ohm speaker in there, the amp would have been able to put more power to the other channels because the front ones weren't "needing" as much power...just a theory
try disconnecting the JVCs and see if it solves the problem
quickest, easiest way to solve the problem? buy an Alpine MRP-F300 for $200 (retail price, can be had new for alot less), its easily wired inbetween your speakers and stock amp, plus power, ground, and remote trigger obviouslly...and it will sound better than ever before no doubt...or slap a new head unit in there
Last edited by V8ImpSS; Feb 28, 2012 at 09:20 PM.
same thing happened when I put kickers in mine.... Stockers sound 100% better but I think a new HU is in the cards for me. The I will try them again.
And the rears are not fill.... I have Infinitys in the door, stockers in the sails and kicker 4" in the rears. You can def hear the rears and it sounds like poo without them
And the rears are not fill.... I have Infinitys in the door, stockers in the sails and kicker 4" in the rears. You can def hear the rears and it sounds like poo without them
Last edited by WhiteBird00; Feb 29, 2012 at 09:44 AM. Reason: Merge consecutive posts
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rear speakers in every car are just there for fill for the listeners in the front seats. for rear passangers, if the rear speakers are in the door and not facing frontward or reflecting of anything that faces the front, ok then there serving a different purpose.
in the car audio world...
front speakers are referred to as the "front stage"
rear speakers are referred to as the "rear fill"
on the other hand..... the infintys and the stock sails work together to create a nice bass sound. I think the infinitys are carrying more bass than the kickers. Not sure why the stockers thump and work well with the infinitys but they just do with the stock HU.
did not know the rear fill thing...... thanks for the heads up
did not know the rear fill thing...... thanks for the heads up
Last edited by WhiteBird00; Feb 29, 2012 at 09:43 AM. Reason: Merge consecutive posts
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amps put out a certain amount of power rated in RMS wattage. except most amps with regulated power supplies, the amout of power the amp puts to the speaker is determined by the speakers' impedance. usually everytime you cut impedance in half, the wattage doubles. double the wattage does NOT mean twice as loud. however as the music plays, and the speakers move, the impedance changes. but resting impedance is whats always referred to when looking at the specs of a speaker.
so as I said earlier the factory speakers are 2 ohm speakers, and the majority of aftermarket speakers are 4 ohms
this means that with aftermarket speakers the amp is putting out less power as opposed to with the stockers...this doesnt even begin to show the difference in how much the impedance changes in regards to the aftermarket vs. stock, but it is vastly different because your starting at a different point, 4 vs 2 ohms, to begin with
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without changing the stock "amp", its not a real amp, the stockers will sound the best becasue they were matched to the factory amp.
amps put out a certain amount of power rated in RMS wattage. except most amps with regulated power supplies, the amout of power the amp puts to the speaker is determined by the speakers' impedance. usually everytime you cut impedance in half, the wattage doubles. double the wattage does NOT mean twice as loud. however as the music plays, and the speakers move, the impedance changes. but resting impedance is whats always referred to when looking at the specs of a speaker.
so as I said earlier the factory speakers are 2 ohm speakers, and the majority of aftermarket speakers are 4 ohms
this means that with aftermarket speakers the amp is putting out less power as opposed to with the stockers...this doesnt even begin to show the difference in how much the impedance changes in regards to the aftermarket vs. stock, but it is vastly different because your starting at a different point, 4 vs 2 ohms, to begin with
amps put out a certain amount of power rated in RMS wattage. except most amps with regulated power supplies, the amout of power the amp puts to the speaker is determined by the speakers' impedance. usually everytime you cut impedance in half, the wattage doubles. double the wattage does NOT mean twice as loud. however as the music plays, and the speakers move, the impedance changes. but resting impedance is whats always referred to when looking at the specs of a speaker.
so as I said earlier the factory speakers are 2 ohm speakers, and the majority of aftermarket speakers are 4 ohms
this means that with aftermarket speakers the amp is putting out less power as opposed to with the stockers...this doesnt even begin to show the difference in how much the impedance changes in regards to the aftermarket vs. stock, but it is vastly different because your starting at a different point, 4 vs 2 ohms, to begin with
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Yea im not sure if im just hearing the front door speakers now because of the change, but literally the 2 ohm svc Kicker subs do not seem to be hitting as hard on the same songs i played before...
Would the fact that the speakers that i replaced were 4 ohm? Was the amp being affected by the use of the wrong impedance and thus pushing more power to the subs?
Would the fact that the speakers that i replaced were 4 ohm? Was the amp being affected by the use of the wrong impedance and thus pushing more power to the subs?
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maybe since factory speakers are 2 ohm and there was a 4 ohm speaker in there, the amp would have been able to put more power to the other channels because the front ones weren't "needing" as much power...just a theory
try disconnecting the JVCs and see if it solves the problem
without changing the stock "amp", its not a real amp, the stockers will sound the best becasue they were matched to the factory amp.
amps put out a certain amount of power rated in RMS wattage. the amout of power the amp puts to the speaker is determined by the speakers' impedance.
****however as the music plays, and the speakers move, the impedance changes. but resting impedance is whats always referred to when looking at the specs of a speaker.
amps put out a certain amount of power rated in RMS wattage. the amout of power the amp puts to the speaker is determined by the speakers' impedance.
****however as the music plays, and the speakers move, the impedance changes. but resting impedance is whats always referred to when looking at the specs of a speaker.
I'm thinking the combination of going from what YOU had...the different subs and change in the front speakers to a speaker that is "demanding more" from the amp...is whats causing the issue, id try disconnecting your rear full range speakers and cross your fingers, otherwise that Alpine MRP-F300 is going to be your best solution, even over a head unit swap because you'd need an amp for the subs anyway if you wanted to bypass the factory amp
Last edited by V8ImpSS; Feb 28, 2012 at 10:17 PM.
so the change in door speakers could be the reason for the kicker subs not sounding as good?
I noticed that the subs are not entirely sealed... for whatever reason chevy made a cut out for the wires to run, essentially even with the sub lined up and in place there is a cut out for the wires not "sealing" the sub... i was thinking of getting a piece of dynamat to cover this cut out and providing a better "enclosed" hole for the speaker....
and from my understanding the very back hatch speakers are not powered by the amp... only the door speakers and subs are powered by the amp
I noticed that the subs are not entirely sealed... for whatever reason chevy made a cut out for the wires to run, essentially even with the sub lined up and in place there is a cut out for the wires not "sealing" the sub... i was thinking of getting a piece of dynamat to cover this cut out and providing a better "enclosed" hole for the speaker....
and from my understanding the very back hatch speakers are not powered by the amp... only the door speakers and subs are powered by the amp
Last edited by WhiteBird00; Feb 29, 2012 at 09:46 AM. Reason: Merge consecutive posts
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at the power the stock amp is putting to those subs, covering the hole with dynamat isnt going to make a difference at all...plus that enclosure is most likely different that what the sub would call for in an enclosure anyways...99/100 stock subs are free air like that, but 1000 watt 12" monsters aren't becasue of how much more power they can use
and the rear speakers are powered by somthing, besides the amp what else is there? maybe their not powered by the amp thats a seperate unit than the head unit, but there could be an amp inside the headunit like an aftermarket one would have. in my '01 C5 the door subs each have, well had
, their own amp assembly but the full rangers are powered by the head unit
and yea if you changed your door speakers and the subs don't sound as good as a result...the cause is kinda obvious
try disconnecting the rears and see if the subs sound better!!!!!!! thats going to be step 1 of diagnosis..if nothing changes, your SOL and need an amp
and the rear speakers are powered by somthing, besides the amp what else is there? maybe their not powered by the amp thats a seperate unit than the head unit, but there could be an amp inside the headunit like an aftermarket one would have. in my '01 C5 the door subs each have, well had
, their own amp assembly but the full rangers are powered by the head unitand yea if you changed your door speakers and the subs don't sound as good as a result...the cause is kinda obvious
try disconnecting the rears and see if the subs sound better!!!!!!! thats going to be step 1 of diagnosis..if nothing changes, your SOL and need an amp
Joined: Nov 2003
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From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
All eight speakers in Camaro Monsoon systems are powered by the external amp (including the 4" hatch speakers). Firebirds are different - the door and hatch tweeters run off the head unit and all other speakers run off the external amp. (all covered in the Monsoon FAQ sticky)
The front tweeters and the rear 4" are 4 ohm... are you sure they are powered by the amp?
My MP3 player i use has preamp setting would this have any affect on the subs?
My MP3 player i use has preamp setting would this have any affect on the subs?
Last edited by WhiteBird00; Feb 29, 2012 at 11:58 AM. Reason: Merge consecutive posts
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 11,328
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From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
You shouldn't use a pre-amp output as input to the Monsoon system as it is designed to work only with speaker level signals (i.e. the factory head unit produces speaker level output just like any ordinary Delco HU and the Monsoon amp uses that as its input).
http://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-TS-A16.../dp/B000LY8DCM
these are what were in my door before i replaced them...
But i took the unplugged the rear hatch speakers and i didnt notice a big difference if any... the only things i can think of are
1) the front doors are much brighter and canceling out the bass...(but i dont really feel the bass as much either)
2)The front door speakers are taking more of the power from the amp now, thus the subs are not getting as much power
would a headunit provide more power for the speakers? i was looking at a couple aftermarket headunits
these are what were in my door before i replaced them...
But i took the unplugged the rear hatch speakers and i didnt notice a big difference if any... the only things i can think of are
1) the front doors are much brighter and canceling out the bass...(but i dont really feel the bass as much either)
2)The front door speakers are taking more of the power from the amp now, thus the subs are not getting as much power
would a headunit provide more power for the speakers? i was looking at a couple aftermarket headunits
I looked up the two ratings on the speakers that were in the door and the infinitys
Pioneer
4ohm
37hz-25hz frequency
91db sensitivity
Infinity
2ohm
53hz-21hz
93db sensitivity
One thing when i was doing my research on these two sets of speakers that caught my eye
"True Four Ohms
All Reference speakers feature two ohm voice coils. Original factory-installed speaker wiring in many cars is 18-22 gauge. This wire, and heating in the voice coil when power is applied, increase the impedance "seen" by the amplifier or head unit. The impedance of Reference Speakers has been adjusted to compensate for this increase and can be safely driven by any head unit."
This is talking about the infinitys, do you know what this means? are they two ohm or four?
The kicker subs i have in my sails
2ohm
25hz-350hz frequency
85.5dB sensitivity
Pioneer
4ohm
37hz-25hz frequency
91db sensitivity
Infinity
2ohm
53hz-21hz
93db sensitivity
One thing when i was doing my research on these two sets of speakers that caught my eye
"True Four Ohms
All Reference speakers feature two ohm voice coils. Original factory-installed speaker wiring in many cars is 18-22 gauge. This wire, and heating in the voice coil when power is applied, increase the impedance "seen" by the amplifier or head unit. The impedance of Reference Speakers has been adjusted to compensate for this increase and can be safely driven by any head unit."
This is talking about the infinitys, do you know what this means? are they two ohm or four?
The kicker subs i have in my sails
2ohm
25hz-350hz frequency
85.5dB sensitivity
Last edited by WhiteBird00; Feb 29, 2012 at 04:40 PM. Reason: Merge consecutive posts
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You cannot power your subs by deck power, you will blow them...if you wanted to change the head unit your going to need an amp...as I said before adding a inexpensive amp to your system would be the ideal lowest buck solution that would 100% fix the problem and make your **** sound better without a doubt...then if you want to swap out the head unit later to get even better sound, you'd be all set and wouldn't even need the expensive harness.
Would a new head unit still connected to the monsoon system now make any difference (minus sound quality)?
If im having to buy an external amp, is there any way to keep the monsoon for the other speakers but only have the Kickers powered by new amp?
When i looked the Kickers up they are RMS 150 watts a piece.... but i would still want my other speakers apmed
If im having to buy an external amp, is there any way to keep the monsoon for the other speakers but only have the Kickers powered by new amp?
When i looked the Kickers up they are RMS 150 watts a piece.... but i would still want my other speakers apmed