junior98

iTrader: (2)

Hello, I just ordered led's and new blinker housings, and I have a question about the new flashers I need.

Everyone says get el12's but I found some for ten dollars cheaper (a piece) called 552's, are these just oe replacements or will they work?

WhiteBird00

iTrader: (4)

The 552 is a heavy duty version of the stock thermal flasher and it has been reported to work with LED bulbs in some positions. It will not work if you replace all of the turn signal bulbs with LEDs but if you do only the front bulbs it should be fine.

junior98

iTrader: (2)

I'm only doing the front so I am very happy to save that money. Thanks!

Phoenix 99

EF32RL is the part you need. It can be used with a total LED conversion or a mixed setup. You can find it on fleabay or probably other places for about $12. I did a full LED swap and used 2 of these, one for the blinkers and one for the hazards. They plug right into the stock harness, the only thing different is it requires a ground.

badmfkr

iTrader: (4)

?1. can I replace my front daylight/ blinker combo w/ 2 of this type LED for each side? 2 whites and 2 yellows?

was planning on just glueing to back of OEM houseing.

?2. then use a 6ohm 50watt resistor? to resolve the fast flash issue?

will this work w/ stock flasher?

edit if I like these LEDs I'd like to have them as brighter backup lights would this type LED be a direct swap from the OEM bulb or is a none load type resistor required?

Thanks


http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-x-White-35...06%26rk%3D1%26

WhiteBird00

iTrader: (4)

I suppose you can ghetto-rig just about anything but do you really want those "high quality" $1.25 LED strips in place of proper bulbs? And why both white and amber? It's one circuit for both DRL and turn signal so you can't have different colors for DRL vs signals.

And no, those strips will not fit in your backup ligts - they're at least 3.5" long and your backup lights are only about 2.5" diameter.

badmfkr

iTrader: (4)

two LED stripes 1 white 1 amber w/ common ground, load resister on blinker then wire straight to daylight driver light.

sjsingle1

iTrader: (1)

the electronic flashers on superbriteleds are only 12$

badmfkr

iTrader: (4)

1.are you saying the stock flasher even w/ a load resister won't work and a LED type flasher must be used?

2.I'm only planning on doing the front blinkers so if I change to a LED type flasher I'll be forced to change all four blinkers.

edit what do you think of my plan to use 2 independant LEDs for each side?
Thanks

sjsingle1

iTrader: (1)

i have 2 EL12 flashers.......it works for the front......but not as the emergency 4 way........get the electronic flashers from superbrite

WhiteBird00

iTrader: (4)

1. No, a load resistor for each bulb will work with the stock thermal flasher.

2. No, using an LED compatible flasher does not mean all bulbs must be LED.

Why would you want to have both white and amber LEDs flashing for turn signals? You can't have one color for DRLs and a different color for signals. Whatever way you connect them, the same ones will light for both DRLs and signals.

And why would you want strip lights of questionable power and quality rather than proper bulbs?

badmfkr

iTrader: (4)

I don't forsee ever using LEDs for the back but if I change mind I now know what I'll need. Thanks

?how much brighter are you'r DLRs?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Tridon-EL12-...sories&vxp=mtr

OK I now understand what you mean by one circuit so my first plan is'nt doable.

How about plan B.

use the small amber LED stripe for front blinkers. then add another circuit for DLR like these.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/DC-12V-White...06%26rk%3D1%26

?1. is there a unused spot in the under hood fuse block to add a fuse and run wires to the new DLRs?
?2.w/ only front LED blinkers used w/ load resisters and OEM flasher will I still have hazaded lights flashing?

to answer you'r ? why use a inexpensive stripe LED is mainly because of the fragility of the OEM houseing (I have glued small cracks however they seam to continue to crack) seams like every couple of years they fill up w/ water so I'd like to leave the stock bulb location open so water can drain and a little moisture won't ruin the waterproof stripe LED.

edit w/ the addition of LED type DLR it will put less strain on the alternater (less electrical load) correct?
Thanks

WhiteBird00

iTrader: (4)

1. Not to my knowledge - you need an ignition switched circuit and I am not aware of one in the under hood junction boxes.

2. Yes, adding a load resistor at each bulb makes the circuit "see" an ordinary incandescent bulb so everything will work with stock flashers.

The reason the housings crack and allow water intrusion is because of the heat generated by the incandescent bulbs. Hot plastic lenses get splashed by cold rain water and they crack. Then the water starts getting inside causing blown bulbs and corroded sockets. LED bulbs don't generate anywhere near as much heat so the lenses don't crack in the first place. So you can use a proper LED bulb without worrying about water. Besides, I think you'll find that those strips don't meet federal requirements for turn signal visibility so you may find yourself attracting unwanted attention from law enforcement. Oh, and did I mention that they will look ghetto?

No, you lose all the current reducing benefits of LEDs when you add load resistors. The resistors work because they make the circuit draw the same current as incandescent bulbs. If you want the current reducing benefit of LEDs then you have to replace your flashers and not use resistors.

badmfkr

iTrader: (4)

actualley I was referring to the DRL
now I'm curious of how much of a reduction in electricale load can be obtained w/ a complete convensionalle bulb to LED swap (for light that usallely stay on).

like when I have my fog lights on I do observe the charging needle drop a tad.

plan C:
seams like LEDs are'nt whorth the effort or are they?

reglue the houseing continue to use a convensionalle bulb, clip the DLR wire and only have a blinker I'm thinking now the houseing won't get hot and be **** to cracking.

then use the not used air pump circuit and wire up the ricey DRL I have a feeling these LED type DRL will be very bright and have a fraction of the electrical load a convensionalle bulb will have.

Thanks

WhiteBird00

iTrader: (4)

Plan C will not work. As I've been saying, the DRLs and turn signals are on the same bulb filament and hence the same wire. You can't cut the DRL wire and still have turn signals.

You don't need load balancing for LED DRLs - only for turn signals. The DRLs don't flash so they have no need for load balancing. Changing the flasher will allow the turn signals to work with the low current of LED bulbs and not affect the DRLs.

I suspect you will be gravely disappointed in the brightness of those cheap strips. They have three widely spaced LEDs that are very directional (limited viewing angle) and aren't particularly powerful. They will look like three little spots of light.

sjsingle1

iTrader: (1)

i really dont notice anymore brightness from my LEDs ......i got them to reduce heat and avoid crack housings and burnt up sockets.......has worked like a charm in that respect !!!!