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Is this something I need to worry about? Not sure if the bulbs are getting too hot for some reason. I drive with my parking lights on pretty much all the time because I like the way the car looks with them and the fogs on. Any idea why this would be happening? This is just a regular 5157K (or whatever the code was) bulb from Advanced. When I first changed these when I did the clear corners last year I noticed this, and it looks like the new amber bulbs I put in are doing the same thing. This is happening on both sides up front.
Happened on both my 4th Gens. Poor design by GM IMO and no way around it. I replaced both sockets when I put in LED switchbacks because the old burnt ones had trouble keeping the bulbs in tight..
If its corrosion, you can drill a small hole under the housing to let water escape. The bulbs usually tend to get really hot and that cracks the plastic/glass. Once cracked, more water gets in and furthers corrosion.
It's the heat from the bulbs. I switched mine out to some LED replacement 3157's. My sockets are VERY toasted, but the LEDs fit in them with a little persuasion and seem to be working fine. The negligible heat from the LEDs should prevent it from continuing to deteriorate.
Also, you can buy replacement sockets and:
1) Cut the OE sockets off the wiring harness and splice in the new socket/wiring
2) I saw a how to where someone "de-pinned" the OE burnt socket and the new socket, and retrofit the new socket onto the OE (uncut) harness.
Last edited by WhiteBird00; Apr 25, 2013 at 11:43 AM.
Reason: Merge consecutive posts
Can I toss some LED's in there without causing any other issues in the blinker circuits? I know sometimes LED's can cause other blinkers not to work correctly due to their different levels or resistance or something like that. If I buy 3157 replacement LED's do they typically have the wiring in place to prevent these issues?
Can I toss some LED's in there without causing any other issues in the blinker circuits? I know sometimes LED's can cause other blinkers not to work correctly due to their different levels or resistance or something like that. If I buy 3157 replacement LED's do they typically have the wiring in place to prevent these issues?
I got some ebay LEDs that I am happy with, but yes, you will then need a new flasher unit otherwise the lights will no longer flash. The stock flasher will stop flashing all of your turn signals (front and back) once you put LEDs in.
I have LED front, incandescent bulbs in the back, and I need the electronic flasher.
Same thin happened when I put aftermarket clear corners on as well. Put a new pigtail socket in and swapped back to stock corners and was fine. It kept blowing bulbs wit the aftermarket no matter how well I sealed them
You only need to worry about this if the bulbs stop working. Yours look normal, so I wouldn't worry about it.
The two filament light bulb in the small lens is like an Easy-Bake Oven - where you can cook food with the heat of a light bulb. (They make them for boys now, so its all good.) You'll notice not just the socket melted, but part of your bulb did, as well.
Originally Posted by mac62989
Happened on both my 4th Gens. Poor design by GM IMO and no way around it.
Its not the design but a conscious choice by the engineers involved. Delphi makes the sockets and they have the same thing in a high heat (much more expensive) version. GM chose the lower grade. Given the design life of these cars and the fact that we've far exceeded it at this point, its not really that bad. And... we can replace the charred parts for $4.50. No big deal.
Originally Posted by Atrus_SS
Also, you can buy replacement sockets and:
1) Cut the OE sockets off the wiring harness and splice in the new socket/wiring
We want to avoid this method at all costs. The splices are in a heavy use/wet location and will just lead to other problems.
Originally Posted by Atrus_SS
2) I saw a how to where someone "de-pinned" the OE burnt socket and the new socket, and retrofit the new socket onto the OE (uncut) harness.
The charred insert pops out with a screwdriver. Once out, the wires, with terminals on the end fall right out of the socket body. Replace the socket body and insert and they are as good as new - with no splices.
Excellent information, thanks wssix99! Another question I have, when Atrus SS mentions a new flasher unit, is he talking about the flasher relays or is there something else that controls the flashers?
I got sick of replacing bulbs in mine, since my housings were cracked and leaking. I just bought new housings and sockets, and replaced em. The wire splicing wasn't that bad. The lenses are nice and clear (makes the car look a few years newer), and I can actually see the flashing from the turn signal, reflecting off of signs/other cars/whatnot.
I highly recommend just getting new housings and sockets.
We want to avoid this method at all costs. The splices are in a heavy use/wet location and will just lead to other problems.
Agreed - I don't like to modify OE wiring at all and will go to great lengths to not cut/modify wiring.
Originally Posted by LS1again
Excellent information, thanks wssix99! Another question I have, when Atrus SS mentions a new flasher unit, is he talking about the flasher relays or is there something else that controls the flashers?
The round flasher relay under the driver's side dash will need to be replaced with an electronic unit. There are two "flasher relays" under there...one on the left (hazard lights) and one on the right (turn signals). My understanding is only the one on the right needs to be changed out to an electronic unit.
Disabling the DRLs will help with this. At that point, the only time that the bright filament will be engaged is when the blinker is on. This will reduce heat in the housing, and prolong the life of the sockets. I deleted the DRLs on both of mine many years ago, and then upon later inspections noticed that the socket charring/melting stopped getting worse.
I disabled the DRL's but I drive with the parking lots on, I've just always liked the way cars look with parking and fog lights on during the day. So I'll just deal with it and eventually replace the sockets and switch to LED's. As long as there isn't anything to worry about and this isn't necessarily abnormal, I'm happy :-)
A write up I did a little while back for rebuilding the sockets, includes the part number and everything. No cutting/splicing needed for the process either.
Changed turn signal socket, now alot stopped working
1998 Trans Am LS1....We changed the passenger turn signal socket due to the old one was melted, with one bought from Auto Zone, it is the correct socket with the colored wires versus the one that was in was with just the 3 white wires. Once hooked up the dashlights, running lights quit lighting up, the headlights will only open up if the headlights are turned on as before they would if you had running lights on. The blinker didn't blink before due to melted bulb but now with new socket wired in it still doesn't blink....can someone help me figure out what went wrong....need my dash lights for driving at night
Last edited by nnoblin10; Sep 23, 2015 at 09:13 PM.
Reason: adding more information
From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
First, it sounds like you blew the TAIL LPS fuse which means you have some wires crossed or shorted to ground.
Second, your headlight should not open when using only the parking lights. If they do, it is generally a symptom of damaged headlight motor gears. You can find plenty of discussion about headlight gears with a quick search of the forum. They probably stopped opening because of the blown fuse.
I suspect that when you find the wiring problem that caused the fuse to blow, you'll also have the solution to your turn signal problem.
I just ordered 40 dollars worth of LED replacements for the front turn signals. Some 3157 bulbs as well as some T10's. I'll update everyone with pics in a few days.
From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
T10? A tubular 120V household bulb?
T10 Bulb
Or a common "peanut" automotive bulb (168, 194, etc.)?
#194 wedge-base bulb
Just yankin' your chain... I know that many people have misidentified the 194 style bulb as a T10 - Walmart even lists it online that way. But it's actual a T3 type bulb (although very few use the type designation, preferring to use the bulb number). The 168/194 style bulb has been popular for side marker lights since the government mandated them in 1968.
Well the ones I ordered are too tall to fit in the housing. But they are bright! As bright as the originals, but slightly less orange. I'll return and try another set
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Burnt sockets for front signals! 
Changed turn signal socket, now alot stopped working 
