Redoing entire audio system!!!
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 119
Likes: 0
From: SE Indiana
Redoing entire audio system!!! Hey all!
This winter I plan on redoing my entire audio system in my '93 'camaro. It has quite a few issues, so I thought I might was well redo it.
What I've done so far:
Replaced the Kenwood HU with a new HU
Got both sail panel speakers working. The left sail speaker is spliced into the factory harness. (Bad Idea? It already was like that when I bought the car)
The right sail speaker (The sub?) is wired to the wire that is connected to the left sail speaker (I just cut out some insulation, and spliced it in there.)
As for the door speakers, I have no idea what's wrong with them.
What issues I have with my current setup:
When I turn the radio up to where it gets pretty loud, the sound will cut off. Still have power to everything. To get it to work again I have to wait between 5-30 minutes until the sound comes back. Any idea why this happens?
What I want/plan on doing: Rewire the entire sound system.
My goal: have a reliable, decent sounding system. Im not looking to break the bank, I just want everything to work right.
Now, I've never done any audio work before, so please excuse my noob Q's.
The way car audio systems work is that the radio is wired to an amp? and then the speakers are wired to the amp? Am I right? (I have the factory Bose 5 speaker getup.)
If my above ^^^ logic is correct, I want to buy an aftermarket amp, and speakers. Any idea what amp/speaker combo would be best, without breaking the bank?
ANY and ALL help/advice/ideas are welcome!
Thanks in advance!
This winter I plan on redoing my entire audio system in my '93 'camaro. It has quite a few issues, so I thought I might was well redo it.
What I've done so far:
Replaced the Kenwood HU with a new HU
Got both sail panel speakers working. The left sail speaker is spliced into the factory harness. (Bad Idea? It already was like that when I bought the car)
The right sail speaker (The sub?) is wired to the wire that is connected to the left sail speaker (I just cut out some insulation, and spliced it in there.)
As for the door speakers, I have no idea what's wrong with them.
What issues I have with my current setup:
When I turn the radio up to where it gets pretty loud, the sound will cut off. Still have power to everything. To get it to work again I have to wait between 5-30 minutes until the sound comes back. Any idea why this happens?
What I want/plan on doing: Rewire the entire sound system.
My goal: have a reliable, decent sounding system. Im not looking to break the bank, I just want everything to work right.
Now, I've never done any audio work before, so please excuse my noob Q's.
The way car audio systems work is that the radio is wired to an amp? and then the speakers are wired to the amp? Am I right? (I have the factory Bose 5 speaker getup.)
If my above ^^^ logic is correct, I want to buy an aftermarket amp, and speakers. Any idea what amp/speaker combo would be best, without breaking the bank?
ANY and ALL help/advice/ideas are welcome!
Thanks in advance!
Teching In
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
From: Massachusetts
One thing you could do it you're looking to save some money is use just a 2 channel amp to power your from speakers. Then use your head unit to power the rears. My personal preference is for Pioneer, but I know others that are very happy with Alpine. If you're just looking for reliable good sound any of the major brands will probably make you very happy.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 119
Likes: 0
From: SE Indiana
One thing you could do it you're looking to save some money is use just a 2 channel amp to power your from speakers. Then use your head unit to power the rears. My personal preference is for Pioneer, but I know others that are very happy with Alpine. If you're just looking for reliable good sound any of the major brands will probably make you very happy.
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 314
Likes: 0
From: Land of the Mormon's although I'm not one of them
You don't need an amp for the main 4 speakers, your HU can power those if you're on a budget.
If I were you, that's where I would start, you can always build/add more later.
Keep your Kenwood headunit; run all new speaker wires from the HU to the new speakers.
The rears are easy, just route it along the sides of the floorboards; the doors are a little harder but still relatively easy for the DIYer, you can fish new wires through the boot between the body and door easily with a coat-hanger.
I get my speaker wire and connectors from Parts Express. I'd suggest just 16 gauge wire for the basic 4 speakers. This shouldn't break the bank, and make things sound better. Be sure to at a minimum use crimp connectors between the HU harness and the new speaker wires, and the proper crimp terminals between the speaker wires and the new speakers. NO TWISTING/TAPING WIRES!!!!
As for speaker brands; I'm out of the game on new speakers; I haven't bought new car speakers in years.
If I were you, that's where I would start, you can always build/add more later.
Keep your Kenwood headunit; run all new speaker wires from the HU to the new speakers.
The rears are easy, just route it along the sides of the floorboards; the doors are a little harder but still relatively easy for the DIYer, you can fish new wires through the boot between the body and door easily with a coat-hanger.
I get my speaker wire and connectors from Parts Express. I'd suggest just 16 gauge wire for the basic 4 speakers. This shouldn't break the bank, and make things sound better. Be sure to at a minimum use crimp connectors between the HU harness and the new speaker wires, and the proper crimp terminals between the speaker wires and the new speakers. NO TWISTING/TAPING WIRES!!!!
As for speaker brands; I'm out of the game on new speakers; I haven't bought new car speakers in years.
TECH Regular
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 443
Likes: 1
From: Jacksonville, FL
definitely NEVER twist and tape your wires, i just have to let that out now.
but if youre going budget keep the HU (ive always like kenwood) and run new wires + 2 or 3 AV cables to the rear and leave the AV cables for a future amp install (if youre rewiring everything you might as well do it once) and then from the back run the speaker wire to the speakers because thats where the amp will be if you decide to go with one. only a few extra feet of wire and it will work for now and can easily be upgraded in the future.
but if youre going budget keep the HU (ive always like kenwood) and run new wires + 2 or 3 AV cables to the rear and leave the AV cables for a future amp install (if youre rewiring everything you might as well do it once) and then from the back run the speaker wire to the speakers because thats where the amp will be if you decide to go with one. only a few extra feet of wire and it will work for now and can easily be upgraded in the future.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 119
Likes: 0
From: SE Indiana
Keep your Kenwood headunit; run all new speaker wires from the HU to the new speakers.
The rears are easy, just route it along the sides of the floorboards; the doors are a little harder but still relatively easy for the DIYer, you can fish new wires through the boot between the body and door easily with a coat-hanger.
I get my speaker wire and connectors from Parts Express. I'd suggest just 16 gauge wire for the basic 4 speakers. This shouldn't break the bank, and make things sound better. Be sure to at a minimum use crimp connectors between the HU harness and the new speaker wires, and the proper crimp terminals between the speaker wires and the new speakers. NO TWISTING/TAPING WIRES!!!!
Just to clarify... wire the (4) speakers directly to the HU, via 16 gauge speaker wire?
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 314
Likes: 0
From: Land of the Mormon's although I'm not one of them
And yes, that's exactly what I'm saying; rewire the speakers and run new speaker wire from the HU to the new speakers.
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Verdad Gallardo Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 314
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From: Land of the Mormon's although I'm not one of them
You can turn it up as loud as you want; it'll just start making the speakers sounds like **** and distorting.
If it doesn't get as loud as you want without distorting, then it's time to add an external amplifier.
Teching In
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 32
Likes: 0
Personal preference is go aftermarket amp I've changed every system in every car I've owned. Loudness is just a dollar figure do what you can afford but if you plan on redoing the whole system by the best you can afford starting with speakers then go from there. A a couple sets of good name brand speakers won't break the bank coupled with your new head unit might be loud enough for you. But in the case they are not go with speakers that will allow you to run an amp at a later date. If you can afford 100watt give or take rms speakers you will be ahead of the game in the future. As for running wires directly to head unit If its necessary because of faulty stock wiring then go for it. But if the stock wiring is ok I'd wait because an added amp later will require lots more wire to run all 4 speakers to its location. Or simply leave a lot extra to start. Also be mindfully amp install can get expensive most don't think about the cost of an install kit on top of the amp cost.
TECH Regular
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 443
Likes: 1
From: Jacksonville, FL
Personal preference is go aftermarket amp I've changed every system in every car I've owned. Loudness is just a dollar figure do what you can afford but if you plan on redoing the whole system by the best you can afford starting with speakers then go from there. A a couple sets of good name brand speakers won't break the bank coupled with your new head unit might be loud enough for you. But in the case they are not go with speakers that will allow you to run an amp at a later date. If you can afford 100watt give or take rms speakers you will be ahead of the game in the future. As for running wires directly to head unit If its necessary because of faulty stock wiring then go for it. But if the stock wiring is ok I'd wait because an added amp later will require lots more wire to run all 4 speakers to its location. Or simply leave a lot extra to start. Also be mindfully amp install can get expensive most don't think about the cost of an install kit on top of the amp cost.
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 11,328
Likes: 346
From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
Is everybody missing that he has a BOSE system? The wiring between the Bose head unit and speakers is completely different than a normal audio system. The Bose system sends low level, high impedance signal to speakers with built-in amplifiers and that use chassis ground instead of floating ground like almost every other system in existence. Using the factory wiring for an aftermarket head unit and aftermarket speakers is not an option - do it right and rewire.
BTW, you weren't serious that you wired your right sail panel speaker to the left side speaker? That would explain why it sounds horrible and you can't turn up the volume without putting the amp in protection mode. The sub is in the cubby in the hatch area on the left (driver's) side - unlike Monsoon systems, there is only one sub in a Bose system.
BTW, you weren't serious that you wired your right sail panel speaker to the left side speaker? That would explain why it sounds horrible and you can't turn up the volume without putting the amp in protection mode. The sub is in the cubby in the hatch area on the left (driver's) side - unlike Monsoon systems, there is only one sub in a Bose system.
TECH Regular
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 443
Likes: 1
From: Jacksonville, FL
Is everybody missing that he has a BOSE system? The wiring between the Bose head unit and speakers is completely different than a normal audio system. The Bose system sends low level, high impedance signal to speakers with built-in amplifiers and that use chassis ground instead of floating ground like almost every other system in existence. Using the factory wiring for an aftermarket head unit and aftermarket speakers is not an option - do it right and rewire.
BTW, you weren't serious that you wired your right sail panel speaker to the left side speaker? That would explain why it sounds horrible and you can't turn up the volume without putting the amp in protection mode. The sub is in the cubby in the hatch area on the left (driver's) side - unlike Monsoon systems, there is only one sub in a Bose system.
BTW, you weren't serious that you wired your right sail panel speaker to the left side speaker? That would explain why it sounds horrible and you can't turn up the volume without putting the amp in protection mode. The sub is in the cubby in the hatch area on the left (driver's) side - unlike Monsoon systems, there is only one sub in a Bose system.
Hey all!
This winter I plan on redoing my entire audio system in my '93 'camaro. It has quite a few issues, so I thought I might was well redo it....
....What I want/plan on doing: Rewire the entire sound system.
My goal: have a reliable, decent sounding system. Im not looking to break the bank, I just want everything to work right....
...If my above ^^^ logic is correct, I want to buy an aftermarket amp, and speakers...
Thanks in advance!
This winter I plan on redoing my entire audio system in my '93 'camaro. It has quite a few issues, so I thought I might was well redo it....
....What I want/plan on doing: Rewire the entire sound system.
My goal: have a reliable, decent sounding system. Im not looking to break the bank, I just want everything to work right....
...If my above ^^^ logic is correct, I want to buy an aftermarket amp, and speakers...
Thanks in advance!
sounds like hes planning to rewire it all and eventually put an amp in as well as replace the speakers so thats why i said to wire it up like you have an amp so you dont have to tear into the interior twice and the price difference is negligible
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 11,328
Likes: 346
From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
Agreed. But others are still suggesting that it's okay to use the factory wiring for an aftermarket system. And the comment about connecting one side output to the other makes me wonder about the level of knowledge of even the most basic audio wiring. Perhaps it might be better to have the wiring done by a pro.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 119
Likes: 0
From: SE Indiana
And thank you all for the help! It was needed. Now I know kinda what I'm doing.
TECH Regular
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 443
Likes: 1
From: Jacksonville, FL
Agreed. But others are still suggesting that it's okay to use the factory wiring for an aftermarket system. And the comment about connecting one side output to the other makes me wonder about the level of knowledge of even the most basic audio wiring. Perhaps it might be better to have the wiring done by a pro.
good luck, come back for any questions