Installing system, pros please comment
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From: South Jersey/Moorestown
Well here goes
I have:
Headunit: Boss 620ua
Speakers:
6.5" JBL 608gti components 150w rms 600watt peak
6.5" JBL GTO 638 60w 180peak
Subwoofer:
1 Rockford Fosgate 10" T110D4 600watt rms and 1200 watt max
Amps:
JBL 600.2 180w x 2 channel @ 4 ohm
Rockford Fosgate T5002 75wattx2 500watt bridged @ 2 ohm
Now that's what I have out of my old truck. However my old truck did not have the monsoon amp.
Should I be ditching the monsoon amp with what I have to install?
Also obviously the components will go in the front doors. However, should I buy the bazooka 6.5 for the sails and install the non components I have in the sail panel?
I'm relatively brain dead with the electronics to how the system works. I can run the wires and everything do the install but I'm not the brains with this stuff. Just a parts changer.
And help is appreciated!
Thank you so much
Edit: standard speakers in the hatch**
I have:
Headunit: Boss 620ua
Speakers:
6.5" JBL 608gti components 150w rms 600watt peak
6.5" JBL GTO 638 60w 180peak
Subwoofer:
1 Rockford Fosgate 10" T110D4 600watt rms and 1200 watt max
Amps:
JBL 600.2 180w x 2 channel @ 4 ohm
Rockford Fosgate T5002 75wattx2 500watt bridged @ 2 ohm
Now that's what I have out of my old truck. However my old truck did not have the monsoon amp.
Should I be ditching the monsoon amp with what I have to install?
Also obviously the components will go in the front doors. However, should I buy the bazooka 6.5 for the sails and install the non components I have in the sail panel?
I'm relatively brain dead with the electronics to how the system works. I can run the wires and everything do the install but I'm not the brains with this stuff. Just a parts changer.
And help is appreciated!
Thank you so much
Edit: standard speakers in the hatch**
Last edited by WhiteBird00; Dec 24, 2013 at 09:14 AM. Reason: Merge consecutive posts
First thing I'd do is get rid of that boss hu and get something with some decent pre out voltage.
Your gonna need a amp kit to hook the amps up or you can buy the wires individually
Are you trying to do this cheap or do you wanna go all out and do a nice install?
Your gonna need a amp kit to hook the amps up or you can buy the wires individually
Are you trying to do this cheap or do you wanna go all out and do a nice install?
Last edited by WhiteBird00; Dec 26, 2013 at 07:56 AM. Reason: Merge consecutive posts
Thread Starter
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From: South Jersey/Moorestown
Well I've done a system in my old car. I liked the boss headunit because it's the only "simple" looking one I could find. All the other ones have too much going on with colors and everything.
Next, what do you mean get rid of because of bad voltage
I have all the RCA'a, power and ground wires, etc
I've already begun running the new speaker wires through the doors and up the a pillar for rewording the front components.
Next, what do you mean get rid of because of bad voltage
I have all the RCA'a, power and ground wires, etc
I've already begun running the new speaker wires through the doors and up the a pillar for rewording the front components.
Well I've done a system in my old car. I liked the boss headunit because it's the only "simple" looking one I could find. All the other ones have too much going on with colors and everything.
Next, what do you mean get rid of because of bad voltage
I have all the RCA'a, power and ground wires, etc
I've already begun running the new speaker wires through the doors and up the a pillar for rewording the front components.
Next, what do you mean get rid of because of bad voltage
I have all the RCA'a, power and ground wires, etc
I've already begun running the new speaker wires through the doors and up the a pillar for rewording the front components.
As for the RCA voltage part, the higher the better (better, cleaner signal) going to the amps and most (not all) are 2 volt or less and if your running everything off amps you want no less then 4 volt RCA for the signal quality. Also that HU only has one single set of RCA's if everything is gonna be amped then you wan't a HU with 3 sets of RCA's (1 pair for fronts, one pair for sails and 1 pair for subwoofer if your adding a sub at any point) by having only one pair of RCA's you are forced to split it to run multiple amps which further degrades the voltage and signal quality.
As for your setup, I see the front components another set of JBL's and the sub but then you only have 2 2-channel amps, so at most you would only be able to power the components with the Rockford amp and use the JBL on the sub, but you can't do that because the JBL amp isn't 2 ohm bridged (which is how you would wire that sub) but it's rms power outputs exceeds the RMS ratings of the components, how was all of this wired in the truck before?
Last edited by Daniel Richards; Dec 26, 2013 at 12:34 PM.
Daniel Richards pretty much summed it up. But also to add, yes you will be bypassing the Monsoon amp if you plan to use both aftermarket amps. The stock Monsoon amp sucks compared to almost all aftermarket amps
Actually he would have to leave most of the Monsoon Amp wiring in place as he only has enough amps to do the front doors and the sub, so the rest would need to be fed from the monsoon amp. he would only bypass the front door wiring.
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Thread Starter
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From: South Jersey/Moorestown
In my old truck I had the JBL amp powering my front door speakers, and the headunit powering the rear door speakers. Then I had the Rockford amp powering the Rockford sub.
I believe what I'll be doing is ditching the sail speakers and running my 6.5's off the headunit. Then I'll be running the front off the JBL amp and the sub off the Rockford amp.
The RCA single output I can run into the one amp, then it has an RCA output to run to the other amp...
I'm assuming, and correct me if I'm wrong, how I would do it.
I believe what I'll be doing is ditching the sail speakers and running my 6.5's off the headunit. Then I'll be running the front off the JBL amp and the sub off the Rockford amp.
The RCA single output I can run into the one amp, then it has an RCA output to run to the other amp...
I'm assuming, and correct me if I'm wrong, how I would do it.
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Joined: Jan 2008
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From: Fargo, ND
The correct way is to run 3 sets of pre amps. If you only run 1 set of RCAs, you will not have the ability to run a fader/balance on your speakers, or adjust sub output level from the head unit.
Just a note, i run the 6.5 bazookas on the Monsoon amp and they sound really decent.
Personally i would run the front and rears off a 4 channel amp, and a separate mono amp for the sub. It ideally is the best way to do it.
Just a note, i run the 6.5 bazookas on the Monsoon amp and they sound really decent.
Personally i would run the front and rears off a 4 channel amp, and a separate mono amp for the sub. It ideally is the best way to do it.
Thread Starter
TECH Fanatic
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From: South Jersey/Moorestown
The correct way is to run 3 sets of pre amps. If you only run 1 set of RCAs, you will not have the ability to run a fader/balance on your speakers, or adjust sub output level from the head unit. Just a note, i run the 6.5 bazookas on the Monsoon amp and they sound really decent. Personally i would run the front and rears off a 4 channel amp, and a separate mono amp for the sub. It ideally is the best way to do it.
I wouldn't mind adjusting the sub output by going into the hatch.
When I had the system in the truck I was happy with it. It was 4 speakers total and the 10" sub. The highs were fine and ample bass.
I'm not looking for a show system, it anything insane. Just a nice sounding upgrade from stock that will sound pretty good and have enough bass. I have all this stuff laying around too so not using it I feel bad wasting it.
Just with me rewriting the front components running this off the amp, then the sub off the other amp would work.
I guess to route my biggest question. Running those other JBL 6.5's...the coaxials....I'm going to pull the rear hatch wiring into the sail panel. Those would be powered through the HU to the monsoon amp. Would that would just fine?
Gotcha,
I wouldn't mind adjusting the sub output by going into the hatch.
When I had the system in the truck I was happy with it. It was 4 speakers total and the 10" sub. The highs were fine and ample bass.
I'm not looking for a show system, it anything insane. Just a nice sounding upgrade from stock that will sound pretty good and have enough bass. I have all this stuff laying around too so not using it I feel bad wasting it.
Just with me rewriting the front components running this off the amp, then the sub off the other amp would work.
I guess to route my biggest question. Running those other JBL 6.5's...the coaxials....I'm going to pull the rear hatch wiring into the sail panel. Those would be powered through the HU to the monsoon amp. Would that would just fine?
I wouldn't mind adjusting the sub output by going into the hatch.
When I had the system in the truck I was happy with it. It was 4 speakers total and the 10" sub. The highs were fine and ample bass.
I'm not looking for a show system, it anything insane. Just a nice sounding upgrade from stock that will sound pretty good and have enough bass. I have all this stuff laying around too so not using it I feel bad wasting it.
Just with me rewriting the front components running this off the amp, then the sub off the other amp would work.
I guess to route my biggest question. Running those other JBL 6.5's...the coaxials....I'm going to pull the rear hatch wiring into the sail panel. Those would be powered through the HU to the monsoon amp. Would that would just fine?
all I can do is insist on the recommendation to replace the Boss HU, yes you can get away with how you ran that RCA but I can GUARANTEE you if you got a good Pioneer or other HU with a DEDICATED 4 volt or better RCA subwoofer preout and a built in low pass filter you will see a HUGE difference in the sound quality and general loudness of your sub, believe me I have shown people just how much a difference it makes having a dedicated subwoofer preout vs. using a full range preout, I've actually climbed into a truck where they had the sub RCA on the rear preout and moved it to the sub preout and let me tell you it is night and day difference just doing that. Do yourself a favor and replace that headunit with one that has good features.
Good info here
Like I said that boss has to go, but if you insist on keeping it a line driver could be used to boost your pre out voltage to get a better signal
And if the reason you don't want to get rid of the boss is you want something stock looking they do make them. One name I can think of is nakamichi. They make top of the line stuff along with affordable products and they all have a relatively stock look to them.
Trust me you want a real 24 bit d/a converter, once you hear the difference you will never go back.
Also maybe looking into 5 or 6 channel amps might be how you want to go just to simplify things a little
Like I said that boss has to go, but if you insist on keeping it a line driver could be used to boost your pre out voltage to get a better signal
And if the reason you don't want to get rid of the boss is you want something stock looking they do make them. One name I can think of is nakamichi. They make top of the line stuff along with affordable products and they all have a relatively stock look to them.
Trust me you want a real 24 bit d/a converter, once you hear the difference you will never go back.
Also maybe looking into 5 or 6 channel amps might be how you want to go just to simplify things a little
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 11,328
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From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
There is a misconception that higher voltage pre-amp output is better because it somehow improves the signal quality... that is completely wrong. Higher voltage output is used in car audio because it is more resistant to signal interference from all the other electronics in the vehicle. That is the same reason lower impedance speakers are preferred in cars - the increased current flow resists interference. Quality home audio systems use low voltage output and high impedance (usually 8-ohm) speakers for better sound quality and cooler operation because they don't have to contend with the electrical interference like a car system does.
I'm not disagreeing that higher voltage output is beneficial in a car system - just with the reasoning behind it. You can achieve the same results with lower voltage and better shielded cable.
I'm not disagreeing that higher voltage output is beneficial in a car system - just with the reasoning behind it. You can achieve the same results with lower voltage and better shielded cable.